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Another Cold Floor Dilemma


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01-18-07, 07:39 PM   #1  
Another Cold Floor Dilemma

All of my wooden floors on the 1st floor are freezing cold during the winter causing my furnace to work OVERTIME! The majority of my basement is a crawlspace with a black plastic vapor barrier on top of the dirt and poured concrete on top of the plastic. I have no insulation on the basement walls or ceilings above the crawlspace. I have a furnace and flexible ducts throughout the entire basement area causing some access problems to certain ceiling areas of the basement. I have read so many threads but cannot determine a solution to my problem.

Where should I insulate to warm up my floors and the entire 1st floor? What type of insulation should I use? Do I need to insulate both basement walls and ceilings? I dont want my pipes in the basement to freeze.

Because some ceiling areas are hard to get to, should I use spray foam? During the summertime, it get's humid in my basement so I have a dehumidifier on throughout the day?

 
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01-18-07, 08:24 PM   #2  
A 2" or 3"polystyrene on the walls up to the joist.Then a block like of R 19 insulation in each joist space up on the sill plate. You say you have poly under the cement there in the crawl space so thats good You can go to.
http://aboutsavingheat.com/crawlspace.html

And read about doing a crawl space. seal any vents down there . We put registers in the duct down there all the time . It help warm the floor and it all works like a heat sink for the home . It ends up costing less in fuel

 
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01-19-07, 12:19 PM   #3  
Thanks Ed for your input, but please forgive me for my inexperience on this type of home improvement. When you mention to put 2" or 3"polystyrene on the walls up to the joist, is polystyrene another name for spray foam?

When you say to put block of R-19 insulation in each joist space, are you still referring to this polystyrene insulation or are you referring to batt insulation? I'm confused! I have some obstacles in some of the joist spaces due to electric working and flexible ducts so I dont know if batt insulation will work?

Are there any other suggestions?

 
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01-19-07, 12:31 PM   #4  
Did you go read that www. It helps .

2" or 3"polystyrene it comes in a board like . There also is the foam board that will works.

you say to put block of R-19 insulation in each joist space,

That would be fiberglass . Just work it up in the joist on the sill plate all around the home. Paper side to the crawl

 
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01-19-07, 01:20 PM   #5  
Heatloss calculations...

Mikey, you can go to slant-fin's website for a free copy or you can search google for online heatloss calculators. You'll need to enter your rooms and basement/crawlspace etc on a room by room basis. This will give you an idea of how much heat you are losing down there. From there you can play around with it and see what the effects are of different levels of insulation on the heatloss.

Essentially it'll be a model of your house. It isn't 100% accurate, but it is more than close enough to calculate what improvements you'll have for spending different amounts of money insulating that space.

An inch of R5 styrofoam board might just be your best bang for the buck depending on how well the rest of your house is insulated. It'll need some form of covering... 1/8" hardboard over it would make quick work. Then just use screw strapping over it with tapcons or just use big washers on the tapcons.

You could be done this weekend.

 
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01-19-07, 02:04 PM   #6  
Ed - Can I get this 2" or 3" polystyrene at a Lowes or Home Depot. That website is good. I even called the company to talk to them but their products were only good for homes that did not have a lot of moisture. My basement has a lot of moisture. As for the fiberglass batting, do I need to put that batting just around the home or do I need to put some in all the joist space in the center of the crawlspace?


Who - Are you suggesting that I use R5 styrofoam on all the walls of my crawlspace? Then put a 1/8" hardboard over the styrofoam to hold it up? Is that hardboard like sheet rock?

I apologize for not knowing all of your terminologies.

 
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01-19-07, 07:42 PM   #7  
Yes... if you're cool doing it in sheetrock then go for it, but sheetrock is a pain to deal with due to its weight - especially in a crawlspace. Save it for your real walls.

 
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01-19-07, 07:59 PM   #8  
wooden floors

Greetings,

Most of your answer is in the thread, FG or radiant barrier in crawl space.

Your best bet is the RB and if you e-m me I'll send you a copy of my article on how insulations relly work.

Not only will the RB reduce your eneruy usage it will probably help with the humidity too.

The instructions on how to install a radiant barrier in your situation would take up too much space. Th e-m arrangement would work best.

 
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01-19-07, 08:58 PM   #9  
For my basement walls, should I be using Extruded or Expanded polystyrene? Can I mount this polystyrene flushed against my block walls? What should I use to nail or mount it to the block walls?

Any suggestions on what type of insulation to use all my floor joists. I have 17 floor joists all together measuring 20 feet long each.

 
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01-19-07, 09:13 PM   #10  
They have a glue to hold the insulation on the walls. You dont want insulation up in all the floor joist. You just want to put a block like of fiberglass insulation R 19 up on the sill plate in each joist space all around the home .

 
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01-19-07, 10:06 PM   #11  
Tapcons... You drill a small hole with a hammer drill, then screw in the tapcon screw. They have philips head for drtwall guns or hex heads for use with a driver. You can either put huge washers in or use 1x3 strapping. The strapping would hold it against the wall the tightest. You don't want air movement in behind it.

You can block the ends of your joist cavities in with styrofoam as well. I typically use Roxul rock wool insulation (like f/g but doesn't have the moisture issues and I find it far less scratchy) for this and then cover it on the outside with foil barrier of all things.... LOL

What heat that does convect up into the joist cavities can't radiate out... Well... that and it looks nicely finished and it's easy to staple. Others actually suggest just foaming this all in.

If you going to do your walls, then don't do your full joist cavities, just the ends where they connect to the headers. If you were to do the full joist cavities then you really shouldn't be doing the walls.

 
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01-21-07, 09:19 PM   #12  
Ed,

I understand that you are recommending to insulate the walls with 2" or 3" polystyrene and R19 block on the sill plate in each joist space around the home. The only thing I dont understand is how this idea will prevent any loss of heat from the living area directly above the crawl space. There is no insulation in the floor joists. Wont I be losing heat there?

Also , how does this idea prevent cold floors directly above the crawl space if there is no insulation on each floor joists?

I can only find 1/2" polysterene in Lowes. Where is this 2" - 3" polystyrene?

Thanks!

 
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01-21-07, 09:54 PM   #13  
They have it here. What does home depot have there??
When the crawl is sealed up It works as a heat sink for the home . We do put small register in the duct work in the crawl.
http://www.rlcengineering.com/csspecs.htm
Another one to read

 
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01-22-07, 08:11 AM   #14  
I have 2 floor registers in my basement that lead into the living room right above my crawl space. I confused on the purpose the registers. Will those floor registers make my floors warm?

 
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01-22-07, 08:18 AM   #15  
Registers in the duct work in the crawl space let some heat out there to warm the floors. Just like you do in the basement with a register out let and small return in it

 
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01-22-07, 08:35 AM   #16  
So are you saying that I need to have registers in the crawl space to heat the crawl space so heat in the crawl space will rise to my 1st floor to heat the cold floors on my 1st floor?

 
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01-22-07, 08:41 AM   #17  
Yes But also insulate in first. Also lets start with the furnace have you checked it ?? Had it serviced??? is your filter clean. What speed is the blower on???? AC coil clean????Lets start with the main things to get heat

 
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01-22-07, 08:51 AM   #18  
I paid a maintenance to have it all cleaned and serviced to make sure it is in proper working condition a few months ago. I just recently changed the fiter last month. I'll have to check the speed of the blower. I dont know the specifications on the furnace, but I do know they just installed it last January. I dont have anything in my crawl space so wont I be just wasting energy by blowing hot air in my crawl space area?

The system is blowing heat but not staying in the house.

 
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01-22-07, 12:02 PM   #19  
Ed - Can you please tell me if I need to use faced or unfaced R-19 batt in the joist spaces? Thanks!

 
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01-22-07, 01:56 PM   #20  
R 19 paper to the crawl space.Just up in the joist space on the sill plate there. All around the home.

 
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01-22-07, 02:04 PM   #21  
I understand. I just came from Lowes and they sell Johns Manville batt insulation. Their R19 come in plastic wrapped, Kraft-Faced and Unfaced Batts. Which one?

 
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01-22-07, 03:40 PM   #22  
Kraft-Faced just the paper back

 
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01-22-07, 04:01 PM   #23  
I'm sorry but what does "just the paper back" mean?

 
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01-22-07, 06:33 PM   #24  
Also, would you be able to recommend a particular adhesive glue to fasten the polystyrene right against the walls and not have to use concrete nails? My crawlspace walls get damp when it rains hard, should I still use the adhesive or use the concrete nails?

Can I screw the masronry nails directly on this polystyrene foam or do I have to use furring strips?

 
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