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Caulking log home - questions

logcabincook's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 549

10-10-07, 06:38 AM   #1  
Caulking log home - questions

Don't know if this is the right forum - move me if it's not :-)

Our log home is being stripped, power washed, and re-stained this week. Since the color of the walls was taken from a dark chocolate brown down to a nearly virgin pine (which is what the wood is), the power washing was very strong. As is typical with log homes, I watched in dismay as water leaked in at some of the joints, especially the corners and where the tongue and groove ceiling meets the walls.

I caulked as much as I could of the inside corners and the wall/ceiling joint where I can reach. We'll need scaffolding to reach the rest. While we are up there, caulking away - should I go ahead and caulk ALL the seams, or just the really leaky ones. Most of the joints in the wall held fast, only an occasional knot leaked. It's the big joints in the house that were sieves.


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resercon's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,873

10-10-07, 07:59 AM   #2  

This is only one site available on the web and there are quite a few manufacturers of this kind of product. Most provide videos and instruction on use and application.

logcabincook's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 549

10-10-07, 08:14 AM   #3  
Thank you for the site but this does not answer my question. Our house is not chinked and we do not intend to do so. The logs are manufactured so they are a tongue and groove fit. I am just wondering if anyone feels it would be worthwhile to caulk ALL seams, regardless of air and water (pressure washing) penetration, or just caulk the most leaky areas.

Unfortunately due to the ground slope and height of the home, caulking on the outside is extremely limited to impossible, though I plan on caulking the corner joints I can reach from the outside.

md2lgyk's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 994

10-10-07, 08:56 AM   #4  
Been there, done that with our first log home. If it were me, I'd caulk all the seams. And don't skimp on the quality of the caulk you use.

Jack the Contractor's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 3,140

10-10-07, 05:25 PM   #5  
I would chaulk the whole thing. I also would not buy the $cheap caulk. Get the good stuff. Around $4.00 or $5.00 a tube. This is not an area is be cheap in. Good Luck

logcabincook's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 549

10-10-07, 05:59 PM   #6  
Oh it sounds like I will be having fun when I get to this phase! Hubby thinks I am nuts but I have been thinking the same thing about caulking everything. I think he is afraid of not allowing the house to "breathe" since we do not have an attic, and therefore no soffit vents, but even in winter we open doors and windows due to the heat the wood stove puts out, so air exchange is never an issue.

We are using the 50 year outdoor rated door and window stuff, not cheap stuff. However I wonder which is best - latex or silicone?

marksr's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 42,796

10-11-07, 04:27 AM   #7  
G.E. silicone is the best but latex is easier to apply. You can get a siliconized acrylic latex caulk which is paintable, it also comes in clear.

Using caulk to stop water infiltration is best done on the exterior. Interior caulking is fine to stop any drafts.

retired painter/contractor avid DIYer

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