Bathroom/Kitchen Insulation

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Old 02-05-08, 12:12 PM
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Bathroom/Kitchen Insulation

I'm trying to find information about how to insulate an interior wall between a kitchen and bathroom. I'm remodeling the kitchen so that wall is open. Due to the high humidity in the bathroom, I am worried about moisture build-up using insulation and then sealing up the wall. These wall cavities previously did not have any insulation.

So far I have concluded, based on what I can find out, that I can use a faced R-13 (for my climate in the midwest) batt or roll and staple the kraft paper to the kitchen side of the studs (since that is the open side). This will allow some moisture to escape the bathroom since the vapor barrier (kraft face) is not on that side. Someone advised a 6 mil plastic sheet on the bathroom side as additional protection because it is relatively sealed from that side. I disagreed thinking if moisture did escape, it might get trapped between the plastic and drywall and create problems. With the kraft paper on the kitchen side there can still be a little bit of ventilation.

Without any more explaining does anyone with insulation experience out there know if I am on the right track or should the insulation be unfaced or just not installed at all to prevent future moisture problems? BTW, since this wall is open, I am using this opportunity to insulate more for sound dampening than h/c benefits. Thanks for any advice.
 
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Old 02-05-08, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by fkraintz View Post
With the kraft paper on the kitchen side there can still be a little bit of ventilation.
...I think you are on the wrong track. This is not how to achieve ventilation of the bathroom, whether intended or not it will end up trapped in the stud space. Note that both rooms are going to have sources of humidity with the bathroom being higher probably. The only way to mitigate it here is with proper exhaust ventilation. Install a real bath fan from panasonic and vent thru the wall and use it!
Your kitchen should also have exhaust ventilation like a good range hood.
Finally if you dont want any air movement along with moisture issues getting into the wall system you can dense pack the wall in 3-4 minutes using a fill tube with cellulose @3.5lbs/sq ft after you drywall and drill a hole in each stud bay, which will effectively seal that wall preventing ant future problems. Patch the 2 inch hole and your done. Of course its easier with batts, but trickier to do it right. In this case i would poly both sides of the wall here. Seal real well with tyvek tape and then use unfaced fiberglass. Just be sure to not leave any gaps btw the drywall and the poly/insulation otherwise the air pockets will allow air/moisture migration.
Maybe some experts can chime in here as im just a fellow diy'er.
 
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