insulation baffle covers part of top plate...problem?
#1
05-09-14, 11:51 AM
insulation baffle covers part of top plate...problem?
When I installed my insulation baffle, they partially cover a portion of my top plate, I'd say about half, because of the way I had to staple it on.
If I foam the gap between my drywall, and the top plate, and pack as much cellulose as I can in the 1/2 of the top plate I can see, will this be ok?
I feel sick to my stomach because this was a lot of work, and very difficult to staple the baffles to the top plate, I just wanted to do it, and do it right. I'd hate to need to rip all the baffles out, and start again.
Please advise.
Thanks,
Adam
If I foam the gap between my drywall, and the top plate, and pack as much cellulose as I can in the 1/2 of the top plate I can see, will this be ok?
I feel sick to my stomach because this was a lot of work, and very difficult to staple the baffles to the top plate, I just wanted to do it, and do it right. I'd hate to need to rip all the baffles out, and start again.
Please advise.
Thanks,
Adam
#2
05-09-14, 12:32 PM
Hi Adam,
With a conventional top chord overhang there isn't a lot of space above the top plate. Yes, you could have done it a bit different, but I doubt what you have vs what you would get by redoing it will cost you $2 a year in lost energy. Sometimes the effort is better spent in other places.
Bud
http://www.dos.ny.gov/DCEA/pdf/Energ...insulation.pdf
With a conventional top chord overhang there isn't a lot of space above the top plate. Yes, you could have done it a bit different, but I doubt what you have vs what you would get by redoing it will cost you $2 a year in lost energy. Sometimes the effort is better spent in other places.
Bud
http://www.dos.ny.gov/DCEA/pdf/Energ...insulation.pdf
#3
05-09-14, 01:11 PM
Thanks a lot Bud. I can seal the top plate where the drywall meets, but I can't fully get insulation to cover the whole top plate...if that makes sense...these are the accuvent style, and I had to cut them to make them fit. It was a ton of work as you can imagine, let alone to get to the top plate and staple.
you think as long as I add enough cellulose and spray foam the gap, I'll be ok as far as ice damming?
Thanks again!
you think as long as I add enough cellulose and spray foam the gap, I'll be ok as far as ice damming?
Thanks again!
#7
05-09-14, 07:51 PM
Furd,
Thanks for your positive feedback. It was a royal pain, and I didn't get them perfect...I guess with the baffles installed like this, I cannot get the insulation to cover to the top plate entirely..I'm just worried about this causing ice damming, but maybe I'm worrying over nothing. I should still be able to get a few inches of insulation over part of the top plate.
Thanks!
Adam
Thanks for your positive feedback. It was a royal pain, and I didn't get them perfect...I guess with the baffles installed like this, I cannot get the insulation to cover to the top plate entirely..I'm just worried about this causing ice damming, but maybe I'm worrying over nothing. I should still be able to get a few inches of insulation over part of the top plate.
Thanks!
Adam
#8
05-10-14, 07:26 PM
So before I blow cellulose in, I want to be sure that if I can't cover the top plate with insulation fully, it won't be a problem with ice damming?
I'd just hate to blow in approx R-49 and have an issue.
Again, many thanks!
Adam
I'd just hate to blow in approx R-49 and have an issue.
Again, many thanks!
Adam
#9
05-12-14, 12:11 AM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
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Ice dams are caused by heat traveling through the roof deck and melting the snow which then runs down to a point outside the house wall and freezes. With the R-49 insulation you won't be getting much heat loss that way and with the continuous air flow from the soffit vents to the ridge vent you will keep the underside of the roof close to the outside temperature. That leaves just hot AIR from the living quarters into the attic as a possible source of heat. While I personally don't think you would have a problem, adding some spray foam on top of the plate to seal any air leakage (from below) should preclude the vast majority of any air leakage. You don't have to be neat about it.
However, if you REALLY want to be sure I would suggest a small foam kit, the type that expands in seconds and is hard in about a minute. Maybe rig the gun to a stick so that you can get it into position without having to crawl in close yourself. Remember, you only have about 20 seconds of time to restart the gun before the foam in the tip hardens so you need to work fairly fast. Worst part is the cost of the foam kit.
However, if you REALLY want to be sure I would suggest a small foam kit, the type that expands in seconds and is hard in about a minute. Maybe rig the gun to a stick so that you can get it into position without having to crawl in close yourself. Remember, you only have about 20 seconds of time to restart the gun before the foam in the tip hardens so you need to work fairly fast. Worst part is the cost of the foam kit.
#10
05-12-14, 06:17 PM
Thanks a lot Furd. I know I sound paranoid but I'd hate to have issues. I plan on using the expanding foam to seal at the top plate and does it help to "pack" cellulose under the soffit baffle? Or not so much.
Thank you!
Thank you!
#11
05-12-14, 08:58 PM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
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You're not paranoid if they are really after you! 
I was referring to the two-part foam kits that puff up in about 30 seconds and are hard in 90 seconds, are you referring to the one part goo that takes a couple of hours (or more) to harden?
Cellulose can indeed be "packed" and it is still a good insulation. Bringing it up above the ceiling joists (or bottom chord of the truss) is a good idea and as long as it doesn't come so high as to fall down the chute you made with the baffles all is good.
The idea is to stop as much as possible the passage of air from the lower conditioned spaces into the attic and to also stop the travel of heat from/to the same spaces. As long as you can reduce the air and heat transfer along with keeping the underside of the roof deck as close to outside temperature as possible (the primary reason for adequate ventilation) you should have no trouble with ice damming.
I was referring to the two-part foam kits that puff up in about 30 seconds and are hard in 90 seconds, are you referring to the one part goo that takes a couple of hours (or more) to harden?
Cellulose can indeed be "packed" and it is still a good insulation. Bringing it up above the ceiling joists (or bottom chord of the truss) is a good idea and as long as it doesn't come so high as to fall down the chute you made with the baffles all is good.
The idea is to stop as much as possible the passage of air from the lower conditioned spaces into the attic and to also stop the travel of heat from/to the same spaces. As long as you can reduce the air and heat transfer along with keeping the underside of the roof deck as close to outside temperature as possible (the primary reason for adequate ventilation) you should have no trouble with ice damming.
#12
05-13-14, 09:27 AM
hah! thanks Furd. I was talking about the "great stuff" expanding foam in the can. I can take care of most of my air leakage with the foam...is that advisable?
All I can say is air sealing a cape cod is a TON of work! I hope to see some improvement in comfortably in the home. The energy usage hasn't been too bad, except this year due to high energy cost.
I'm just looking to improve the comfort of the home.
Thanks for all your help!
Adam
All I can say is air sealing a cape cod is a TON of work! I hope to see some improvement in comfortably in the home. The energy usage hasn't been too bad, except this year due to high energy cost.
I'm just looking to improve the comfort of the home.
Thanks for all your help!
Adam
