Gable Ends

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  #1  
Old 02-06-02, 05:52 PM
Falcon2dr
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Unhappy Gable Ends

New addition on 1955 house, Working on insulating, the Gables that had no inside finishished wall, were never insulated. I can get to those, they are 2 x 4's. Now on the New addition, they didn't do such a hot job on giving me something to staple anything to, there's nothing. Without furring out, which will be a hell of a job, can I use foam board and glue it up?? What is the best I can hope to find as far as R value. I would assume that you really should have something there for insulation..

Any ideas????
Thanks,
Di
 
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  #2  
Old 02-07-02, 10:16 AM
Conserve NRG
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Hi Falcon2dr,
I'm having a little difficulty imagining your new addition and how it's configured. Is it a new kneewall attic (basically, finishing off an attic with sloped ceilings and small walls)?
Does the new addition consist of finished walls?
I would hold off on the blue board at this time.
 
  #3  
Old 02-07-02, 02:30 PM
Falcon2dr
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We ordered special Trusses so we could have an attic room, above the addition. Yes it is sloped and has knee wall's.

There are no finished wall's below the part of the gable that I'm working on now, so there is so called "easy access" for now with a ladder from below, but the drywall is suppose to go up next week.

The gable end that is a part of the attic room had to have 2x6's furred out (for R-19), because they had used 2x4's and turned them flat against the sheeting. I have nothing to staple anything to.. Even the insulation I have for 2x4's (3.5")won't work.

Di
 
  #4  
Old 02-08-02, 05:42 PM
Conserve NRG
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By sheeting do you mean drywall or maybe plaster and lathe?
If so, there may be a void behind the sheeting.
One method for insulating this type of area is with cellulose insulation. Cellulose is a loose-fill insulation and is usually installed with a blowing machine. You can possibly rent one from your local hardware chain (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) They can give you the finer points of using the machine. Be careful and observe all safety precautions.
Although it is desired to acheive a dense pack of insulation it is still possible to overfill voids (open sloped cavities) and cause the sheeting to crack and cause a "Blowout".
You will also want to ensure that your roof does not leak or that you will have roof vents open to these sloped areas before you begin. Water from a poor roof or open vent can destroy the insulation and also cause further damage.
Anyways, There are normally two ways to access this sloped area.
One is from the Crown or Main attic which is the small area at the peak or ridge of the roof. If the slopes extend all the way to the peak than this this Crown will not exist, and you should access it from the small kneewall areas below at the sides.
If you can access the slopes from either of theses areas, then you will want to extend the supplied hose (that usually comes with the rental of the blowing machine-and is attached to it) as far into the slopes as you can. the further the better. You can gauge how far the hose is into the slope by the length of both.
As you fill the cavity with insulation you will pull out the hose. When the cavity has been filled you will then need to block the opening with faced fiberglass (just roll up a piece and stick it in the opening- make sure that the facing is the only thing exposed ).
The second method would be to drill holes through the sheeting to access the voids. Possibly every 16" to 24" depending on your home's construction (since your home was built in '55 I would bet that it's every 16") These holes will access the voids or cavities between the rafters that the sheeting is attached to. You'll probably have to drill two lines of holes (one towards the peak and one line towards the bottom- try to keep them an equal distance from each other as well as the top and bottom of the slope). If you can, before you attempt this method You might want to see if you can block the top and/or bottom openings with faced fiberglass as I previously mentioned. The hose that came with the blowing machine should also have a nozzle which will enable you to blow the insulation into the void through the holes. Afterward you can block the holes with spackling. There are foam plugs that can be inserted into the holes provide support for the spackling but they can be difficult to locate.
I hope that this procedure will apply to your scenario.
I'm not totally sure of what you have going on.
This is the proper method for insulating previously finished sloped areas.
There are still other methods for insulating your main and kneewall areas, if they are accessable (another day)
There can be other issues like electrical wiring. Be careful.
I MUST TELL YOU THAT IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF HOW TO PROCEED WITH THIS, YOU SHOULD CONTACT A PROFFESIONAL WHO KNOWS.
 
  #5  
Old 02-08-02, 05:47 PM
Conserve NRG
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Hey, wait a minute.
Are you opening a vaulted ceiling to a first story?
It's starting to sound like it.
 
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