tyvek and cellulose this weekend


Old 07-04-02, 05:32 AM
dirty plumber
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tyvek and cellulose this weekend

all of my old hail damaged aluminum siding is setting in my driveway waiting for my scrapper to pick up. my 1958 cape cod was discovered by my contractor to not have any side wall insulation. the sheathing is the old style black tyvek, kind of a fiber board. i am buying my insulation (cellulose) and using the blow -in machine from lowes.
i have 17 new windows coming from acri company, which will be installed in about a month.
the house will be wrapped with rolled tyvek before installation of the new siding.
should i personally go ahead and tape the edges and joints on the tyvek to eliminate any leakage and air movement? my siding contractor didn't think it was necessary.
should i caulk around the outside frame on the windows as the new acri windows set inside the existing window frame? this would be prior to the installing of the new vinyl siding?
any personal experiences on the use of the insulation machine?
as i live in the country we seem to have wind here every day except when we need it on these hot days.
older central air and propane forced air furnace will probably be next. those will be simpler to handle.
thanks for any response.
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Old 07-07-02, 04:51 AM
dirty plumber
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went to lowes yesterday- saturday, and got the machine for the insulation and 30 bags. i finished the front and part of one side in about 4 hours. i sent the wife to springfield to by an electric leaf blower lots of clogs at the 1" nozzle, which means taking the end off and cleaning the tip and sometimes flushing the 3" hose into a garbage can. so there is quite a bit of "professional over-spray" to clean-up in the flower beds around the house. i will blow it into the grass and use it for mulch in the garden. this job is definately for someone with patience as the machine will sometimes indicate that a cavity is full. you can go back and check the hole by inserting your finger and if it does not feel tight you can usually add quite a bit more. so far i have found no fire stops in the walls so that has made it easier to fill the stud cavities.

from my limited experience so far i have learned:

1. do not drill the holes at the top of the wall until you are done filling the bottom hole as the insulation and air excaping from the top hole will rain down on your head and just make you feel miserable.

2. it does help somewhat to have a second person to help watch the hopper and to occasionally poak the bundle of cellulose to keep it flowing into the impeller on the machine. but not too much as this will cause more clogs at the 1" nozzle. and also to empty the numerous garbage cans full of cellulose back into the machine.

3. i firmly believe that just about anyone can use this machine , with patiance. although, about the time that you start rolling and haven't had a clog or the hose blowing apart at the nozzle for a few minutes, you will find that the bundle has hung -up at the hopper and is not feeding correctly.

4. i know in my heart that a contractor would not be able to, or want to do the job that i am doing as far as double checking and sometimes tripple checking the holes to make sure that the product is being installed to my satisfaction.

5. i found some 25 year caulking at the true value store for $1.29 a tube to cover the drilled holes. i think this may be better and cheaper than the caps.

i will write later and tell all the total price break-down of this project.


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