Should I Do It? (Weed Control Using Mulch?)


  #1  
Old 06-01-05, 07:41 PM
Kale
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Should I Do It? (Weed Control Using Mulch?)

Hi All !

I have an offer of fresh free wood from the shredder from trees that were probably dead due to disease,would you use it on your newly landscaped land? I have veggies (a few), annuals & perennials and a Cherry tree living in these areas. I can not afford to buy enough mulch to cover these areas
( 7+ yards @ 33.00 per yrd ; for the front yard alone, if I shovel it into my van) Im starting to get weeds.Im voting against using it due to the disease part (that probably killed the tree to begin with) and the abundance of nitrogen but Im not certain what to do . Can anyone assist me on ideas of how to keep the weeds down without chemicals. I know I can use news paper but that is a real bother and time consuming and Id still need something to cover that! Would a black fabric garden covers work? Will it look ugly? Im in a bad way and appreciate any input!!
Thank You very very much..
Kale
 
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Old 06-02-05, 09:56 AM
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Would a black fabric garden covers work?
I can't answer the rest of your question/s (sorry!), but I will tell you that we used this black fabric stuff & it didn't work at all. Weeds came right up through it, and it became more of an annoyance than anything.
 
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Old 06-03-05, 08:08 PM
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I put down 100 yards of the free from the tree service shredded wood. Works great at keeping down weeds. I would not use it around tender plants or in a vegetable garden, because the raw wood will bind all the available nitrogen to the detriment of the plants. If you put it around immature or small plants, feed the plants after installing the mulch.

I put it down eight inches deep and the weeds died from suffocation and nitrogen deprivation. Now the mulch has pretty much composted and decomposed to add to the soil and needs replinishment.

Can't beat the price and delivery was free.
 
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Old 06-09-05, 07:36 PM
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Do not use chipped mulch from diseased trees. In a previous life, the guys who came through and pruned the trees under the power lines up my road were happy to dump the chips on my property. I took caution when using it in shrub beds to make sure mulch never came near the trunks where it could cause rot and disease. I was successful, but mulch really did not turn out that attractive as I love the red cypress mulch. My later research revealed that fresh mulch should be composted before using for the reasons indicated by chfite "because the raw wood will bind all the available nitrogen to the detriment of the plants."
 
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Old 06-11-05, 07:59 AM
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Is 8" the minimum to achieve good weed control? I put in a new flower bed, but the mulch is thin in places, so I know I need more. Is that what I should shoot for?
*I did put the black fabric undeneath as well.
 
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Old 06-11-05, 07:53 PM
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I put down 8" because it seemed to be enough to smother the weeds. I just covered the weeds over with the mulch and let the nitrogen binding kill them. It worked, too. I thought that 8" would last a long time, but 3 years and it is mostly rotted away and needs supplementation.
 
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Old 06-11-05, 09:13 PM
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I used the black "netting" stuff to control weeds.

It did in fact, work VERY Well. Very few weeds grew up through the netting. Tons and tons of them grew on top of it though.
 
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Old 06-12-05, 07:33 PM
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An advantage to having a mulched bed is that the weeds are easy to pull. They are more isolated from the soil and sprays keep the spread down if you don't pull them.
 
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Old 06-23-05, 02:45 PM
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i read on the mulch bag that you need 2 to 3" of mulch to help keep in moisture and to keep weeds down. i usually go with 3". 8" seems excessive - most of the plants i plant (bedding plants/annuals) aren't even 8" high to begin with!!!

i, too, never had much luck with the weed barrier paper stuff. weeds seem to grow right out of the mulch on top. also, young playful bored doggies like to burrow underneath the paper & lay there cuz it's shady & cool in the summer!!! bad dog!
 
 

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