How to fell a damaged tree

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  #1  
Old 01-02-07, 10:28 PM
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How to fell a damaged tree

I have a ~40' evergreen which was recently damaged in the recent NW wind storm. It is partially uprooted and leaning at a 50-60 degree angle from horizontal against an adjacent tree.

It is leaning along the back border of my property, with the nieghbooring house close to the fence line.

I would like to pull the tree inward onto my lawn, which has plenty of space, but this is pulling it from the natural direction it wants to fall (leaning towards 12 o'clock, want to pull it to 2-3 o'clock).

Any suggestions? Chaining it to a heavy duty truck and pulling it?

Thanks for any feedback.....
 
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  #2  
Old 01-03-07, 12:23 AM
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Have you checked with your homeowner's insurance to see if it will pay for tree removal? When large trees are located near neighbor's property and or a fence, it is usually not a DIY project to remove the tree because of risk of damage. A 40 ft. tree is mighty big. Damage to adjacent tree may be significant enough that that tree will need to come down, too. This assessment can not be made until the fallen tree is removed.
 
  #3  
Old 01-03-07, 05:01 AM
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It may be possible to pull as you suggest but there is a very good chance the tree will not fall in the direction you are pulling.
When the tree is pulled and is released from the tree it is leaning against it could swing sideways.
It is possible to pull trees using multiple cables but could be a dangerous if you have not done this before.

You would do well to talk to an arborist to either get some tips or do it for you.
 
  #4  
Old 01-11-07, 03:03 PM
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It's usually the small trees that hurt you

As an arborist for one of the largest and best tree companies in the world, I would suggest contacting you H/O insurance co that was previously recommended. I;m sure they will suggest getting an estimate from an insured tree company that will evaluate the condition of the tree. Depending on the tree species, health, soil type, amount of lean and root loss, they may be able to upright the tree if tree roots have not be bent or severed. If the root ball has emerged and has lifted out of the ground, you may need to excavate the hole somewhat and winch the tree back into the ground. If you decide to go this route, you will need to install the largest duckbill ground anchors in all compass directions to stabilize the tree. The anchors do present a hazard to all that travel and play near the tree.

If the base of the tree is snapped or broken at the root collar, the tree is history. To remove the tree, an arborist would use a cherry if accessible, but may need to climb the tree with a saddle and rope and carefully lower or throw down the trees branches starting from the top to bottom. I've too many videos on Funniest Home Videos showing a few guys on saturday afternoon tying a pull line attached to the tree to be removed and then to the bumper of an S-10 pick up that stalls at the wrong time and the tree lands on the roof. Good Luck and be careful when working with trees. Even the experts get hurt periodically, JB
 
  #5  
Old 01-11-07, 06:53 PM
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Trees are heavier than you think and not easily coerced - I've seen trees move full size pick-up trucks. If you don't have a lot of experience dropping trees, I'd hire this done even if your HO insurance doesn't cover it - there's a lot that can go wrong.
 
  #6  
Old 01-19-07, 10:20 PM
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Pacific Northwest, urban lot, firs and cedars I've done up to 12" trunk *in segments* so not to hit lines, etc. *with bow-saw not chainsaw* because scaling with a chainsaw is dangerous and hectic no matter what your training.

This'll only work if your snag is not much taller than the other tree. The only dicey part is being under the snag before it's lashed onto the good tree. Use common sense and plenty of strong rope, know your cuts & physics, and don't do anything rash, it'll work out.

The price of professional urban tree removal is driven by fear.

DIY and you get to keep the safety harness and saw.

Spray WD-40 on the blade. Accumulated resin makes cutting tedious. If you've never used a modern bow-saw on live softwood you'll be amazed how fast the chips flow.
 
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