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How can a paver walkway be both level and pitched for water runoff?

How can a paver walkway be both level and pitched for water runoff?

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  #1  
Old 04-28-07, 09:20 PM
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How can a paver walkway be both level and pitched for water runoff?

I want to lay a paver walkway in a small entrance to my backyard. About 10' long and 4' wide. The concept I am having understanding is having the walkway be level side to side, but pitched to the degree necessary for water runoff.

Can someone explain it to me?

Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-29-07, 06:21 AM
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The slope is along the length of the walkway. You want a slight grade away from the house. This can be accomplished by grading the base for the walkway.
 
  #3  
Old 04-29-07, 07:09 AM
Join Date: Mar 2005
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How can a paver walkway be both level and pitched for water runoff?

A level surface will not drain.

Set the slope along the path length you want and fit your over-all plan. Do this for one edge or the centerline. Next you "tilt" the walkway to drain the water to the side you want. In severe conditions, you may want to change the "tilt" slightly to combine aesthetics and function.

Roof drainage can throw a large amount of water into an area. Long downspouts (10') will help. If you are concerned with the appearance, use buried extensions with "bubblers" or drain o daylight or a dry well.

The key is to start with a logical drainage plan first and the adjust the details.

If you have an existing situation. wait for a god rain and see where the water comes from and where it goes.
 
  #4  
Old 05-20-07, 02:50 PM
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I am concerned about the same thing and am trying to learn as much as possible before I try undertaking a similar project.

Do pavers fit together so tightly that they will 'carry' water over their continuous surface to the lowest edge or will water drain through the small space between each adjacent paver?

Thanks.
 
  #5  
Old 05-20-07, 04:05 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
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How can a paver walkway be both level and pitched for water runof

Obviously, a very small (probably unmeasureable) amount of water may seep through the joints depending on the slope and sand used. You will get much more water from the surrounding areas. Pavers are set in a sand setting bed that carries away excessive water.

If you want the water to seep through more, you can use pavers designed to permit that. these are normally used for surfaces over roofs or garages where subsurface drainage is planned.

If you are talking about a sidewalk or a patio, you are splitting hairs on something unimportant since the amount is so small. - Pavers have been used longer than poured concrete and still survive.

Dick
 
  #6  
Old 05-25-07, 10:34 AM
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Thanks for the input, it's a small walkway and the surrounding area where it would run is already sloped to drainage.

With an area this small could I get a way with a handtamper? Or should I go ahead and rent the power version?

The path has a slight bend to it, do pavers cut easily?
 
  #7  
Old 05-26-07, 09:26 PM
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The size of the path is irrelevant to the need for good compaction of the base and the pavers into the setting sand. You will never achieve by hand what a plate compactor can do. And, when you use one for the base, try and compact in 2"-3" (of depth) increments or you will not get good compaction.

Pavers are high strength concrete. You can cut them with a hand chisel and some effort, but getting a clean cut will be difficult. A concrete saw or a tile cutting saw (wet) will do the trick easily.

Good luck!
 
  #8  
Old 06-01-07, 10:14 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 246
lots of good q and a here

someone asked about seepage between pavers - it depends on how you build. get a rubber hammer and when you set the pavers tap them to fit firmly. i used a product that i swept over the cracks when complete and it filled in nicelyt and really made a great bond that water does not seep in between the cracks - it was polymeric sand.

cutting - to cut you need to rent a wet saw. bricks/pavers are easy to cut with the correct tools. you can rent a wetsaw for about $50-$75 a day. when i did my large patio i places all pavers and rented and cut on the final day to reduce the time i needed the saw.

the base is most important - i suggest renting a plate vibrator (tamper). it's worth the cost to eliminate settleing - if the base deteriorates then the entire thing will. as mentioned compact only 2-3 inches at a time and even mist it with a hose (helps compaction and elminates dust). whatever you are told you need for a base use more.

finally there are hundreds of articles to read on this. read as much as you can and plan out the project. most likely you will not complete in one day - be prepared for rain or whatever may come up.
 
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