Grub control


Old 02-15-11, 01:26 PM
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Grub control

Unknown to us last year, we and a number of our neighbors have a major grub problem. This was brought to all of our attention when we saw a large mother skunk with six little ones around our yards. Then as the grubs got closer to the surface in late August, the skunks went crazy and destroyed a lot of our yards digging for grubs.
Though we are a way off yet for spring here in S.E. Michigan, we are trying to put together a plan to fix this problem, and restore our yards.
My question is what to use and when to use it.
I have read that preventitive grub products do no good in killing off the grubs still in the ground from last year. I have also read some grub killers need to be used 3 times a year, for as long as 5 years.
I am more than a little confused.
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Old 02-15-11, 01:43 PM
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Grub control is typically most effective in June
Old 02-16-11, 07:20 AM
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I've used Scott's Grubex for a number of years. It's a single treatment product that has worked well for me. I usually apply it in late spring. I have a large front yard but only a portion of it is maintained as lawn. The difference between the treated and untreated is dramatic.

A better option may be to introduce milky spore disease to your lawn. It's more expensive than chemical treatment but it's long lasting.
Old 03-05-11, 02:44 PM
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Being a dog owner, I try to avoid chemicals. I have tried nematodes last spring. No grub damage last fall. I will try it again.

I overseed and try to repair sections of lawn at a time and noticed the grubs seems to thrive in those areas. The areas that got more water due to trying to get grass to germinate and grow.

I used to have skunks a lot in my front yard in the early morning late even. Could be a co-incidence but my male beagle that acquired after I noticed the skunks and grubs pees in the front. I never see them now, but that could because of the nematodes killing the grubs.
Old 03-08-11, 08:45 AM
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Hi diyrich:

The key to grub control is to understand their life cycle:

1. In winter the grubs from last year are deep in the soil and are inactive.

2. As your soil warms, the grubs come to the surface and resume eating the roots of your grass. At this point, they are considered "mature grubs" and require a strong poison to kill them. There is a "24 hour grub killer" that I have found effective at this stage if you apply it the day that you see the first signs of damage in the spring. After 24 hours, the poison becomes harmless (so the package says). The problem here is spotting the right time to apply the product.

3. Later in spring, the grubs turn into moths and fly around eating your plant and tree leaves. Then they lay eggs.

4. In late spring or early summer, the eggs start to hatch into very hungry little grubs. At this point, they don't have protective 'skin' and can be killed by the "season long" grub killer. In my area (north of Boston), the best time to apply this product is early July.

5. By fall, the surviving grubs are mature and can only be killed by the 24 hour product.

6. Remember, grubs fly around. Fixing the problem once isn't a lifetime accomplishment.

Good luck.
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