How can I get my lawn on track

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  #1  
Old 03-27-12, 02:57 PM
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How can I get my lawn on track

I have a small property and not that much lawn. It is an old property and I think for years as long as it was green it was ok. Last year I fertalized with weed and feed in early spring and the lawn greened up and I think some weeds died, but I have to admit I did not keep up with it and it was such a rainy summer that nothing really worked out great landscapingwise. I still have a lot of the scotts weed and feed. I was going to spread it on the lawn maybe this weekend. I really want to get rid of the weeds. I have all kinds of weeds clover, ground ivy,ect Also, I have moles tearing things up. I don't need perfect lawn, but what things that I can do myself would you recommend? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
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Old 03-28-12, 08:03 AM
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Rule of thumb is if the lawn is more than 50% weeds or other undesirable plants, it's best to kill it all and start over.

Barring that, I'd get a soil test to see if you're missing anything. Where are you and what kind of grass do you intend to grow?

Moles can be tough and are often a sign of an insect (grub) infestation. Getting rid of the mole food helps, trapping is sometimes needed as well.
 
  #3  
Old 03-28-12, 09:12 PM
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I don't think it's 50% there are some spots worse then others. I am located in new jersey. Honestly, I really have thought about a type of grass. Maybe this is naive, but I was thinking I would kill the weeds and what ever grass is there will just fill in? I did plan to use grub x and maybe some poisons. Can I use weed and feed or weed killer and grub x at the same time?
 
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Old 03-29-12, 06:21 AM
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Your lawn will fill in if you kill the weeds but it might take years.

Read the bag on the weed and feed as to when to apply it, grub killers work best in May and June.

I'd get a soil test as well to see if your lawn is lacking necessary nutrients.
 
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Old 03-29-12, 05:45 PM
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Thanks, I will definetly try to get a soil test. If I use the weed and feed can I use just weed killer on top after a few weeks and also the grub killer? I would definetly ad seed if I needed to but I don't know what I would use to fill in.
 
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Old 03-30-12, 07:25 AM
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I'm not sure what you mean in your last sentence - to fill in you either seed or sod, are you saying you don't know what type of seed to use?
 
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Old 03-30-12, 07:11 PM
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Right, I'm sorry. I'm not sure what type of seed.
 
  #8  
Old 03-31-12, 05:18 PM
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I think it may be too early to combat weeds in any part of NJ. with soil temps creeping into the mid 40's @ 3'' they're really not actively growing.Now is an ideal time to seed, I prefer a 50/50 blue rye mix for anything other than dense shade.A slice seeder cost about $60.00 to rent for the day and would be optimum.If that's not an option, get that seed down and work it into the soil with a weasel.Getting that seed incorporated into the soil will help ensure good soil seed contact.Next fertilize with a starter fertilizer 18 -24 -12 is a very common formulation, sulfur or poly coat is best as its time released and minimizes burning.A lite watering every other day to help ensure germination should have seedlings within 10 days, follow up with another shot of starter.Within two weeks grass will begin maturing.By this time the forsythia(those shrubs flowering yellow right now) should have dropped their pedals when there's no more flowers on a forsythia that's a sign that its time for crabgrass control (THIS FORMULATION HAS FERTILIZER IN IT AS WELL)
this will minimize some grassy weeds and feed existing lawn.Broadleaf (clover,dandelion,chickweed and so on) weed control can be applied when weeds are actively growing.
 
  #9  
Old 04-04-12, 03:42 PM
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In a few weeks turn up a couple of chunks of sod and look for grubs. If you find them you are going to need to treat the lawn. You can trap moles, but that won't control the damage done by skunks, birds and the grubs themselves. There are a couple of effective treatments. Introducing Milky Spore disease is a proven long term solution and it's eco friendly. For a large lawn it can get pricey for the initial treatment. I apply Grub Ex on my lawn every spring. I have not had a grub problem since I started using it. Before I started using it my lawn looked like a mini minefield.

The only thing else I can add is that you need to be patient. Chances are you're not going to end up with a perfect lawn by July. Once you figure out what works best for your soil and area make up a lawn care schedule. Not as big a pain as it sounds.

I'm in zone 6. I lime every year in March. I use about 40 lbs of lime for every 1000 s/f. I use a fertilizer with a weed control 2-3 times a year according to the manufacturer's instructions. The first application was last weekend. I also apply Grubex every spring. In the early fall I topseed and finish with a starter fertilizer.
 
  #10  
Old 04-05-12, 07:05 PM
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Thanks guys, the weeds and grass have already been growing and now they are pretty high tomorrow I am going to mow the lawn for the first time and apply the scoots weed and feed. I have a lot of these violet colored flower weeds My lawn is pretty small. I bought a bag a year ago and I still have a lot left. I don't expect the lawn to be perfect this year. I just want to stop these moles and weeds and hopefully in the next few seasons its all better. Can I use the grub x at the same time I put down the weed and feed? What do I have to do with that milky spore. I have heard about it, but I don't understand what it does.
As far as mole traps, I don't think I would have to much of a issue with skunks or birds. I live in a fairly urban area and even though I am near some high school fields and a cemetery I don't see too many animals. I'm sure that is where the moles come from. I was actually thinking today my whole property is surrounded by concrete or asphalt. I know the field and cemetery are near buy, but I'm wondering how those moles made if over here.
 
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