Hey all, so I am looking to convert from an Indexing Valve to InLine Valves. Im in FL if anyone is curious and no one uses inline valves here, only the indexing. Anyways I want more control so I am switching.

Anyhow.. my main questions are about if there are 'best practices' for building the manifold. My main thing is to make sure I can replace the valve down the road if needed without having to re-glue stuff

Also I see Orbit makes these Jar head valves (and the standard 8 screws ones). Are these any good? I dont mind spending a little more if it means less issues, especially if underground.

Thanks all!!

 

If you are northern enough I would keep the rare freeze in mind. If it's a possibility I would build the manifold with the idea that you may someday have to replace a valve body. If freezing is not a concern then you could position the valves a bit closer together. You may have to replace a diaphragm or solenoid but hopefully not a body. A shutoff valve before the valves is nice so you can turn off the water and turn it back on right there without having to walk somewhere else for the shutoff.

Most manufacturers produce several styles of valves. Some have the cap held on with 6 or 8 screws while others are knurled and can be opened by hand. I prefer ones with screws. They can be annoying if you drop one on the lawn but screws are easy to remove in a tight space. A jar type lid requires enough room for you to get a good grip and the torque unscrewing the lid gets transferred to the body and piping that supports it so there is a chance you could break something if the lid is stuck hard and you're not careful unscrewing it.

 

Im actually in south FL so no worries on the cold weather

Was also thinking of taking 2 of these and stringing them together. Several people said they leak though. I suppose if the leak is from the diaphram Im less worried since replacement it easy (labor wise) but if by the rest of piping, I am more concerned

Orbit 3-Valve Inline Manifold Assembly-57253 - The Home Depot

Thanks

 

A working valve does not leak. Sticking one valve in front of another really does not help stop or prevent leaks. They are solenoid type valves where the water pressure does most of the work opening and closing the valve. So the second valve only seeing a little water leaking past the first does not have enough pressure to close. So, stick with one valve per zone. If a valve leaks clean it and if that doesn't work replace the diaphragm. I've got 4 years on mine and they're all still working properly with no leaks.

I both like and hate that manifold. If all the unions seal it would be great and it's hard to deny the convenience of a ready made package like that. There are a lot of union connections where leaks are possible. It's a coin toss. They make replacing an entire valve easier but that's a pretty rare occurrence unless you hit it with the lawnmower.