Best way to add potassium only? Any pelletized fertilizer?
#1
03-30-16, 07:52 AM
Best way to add potassium only? Any pelletized fertilizer?
I am in NorthEast and I got a not too bad soil test that showed things to do but also some limits of what I can add to the soil. Based on the results I got pulverized calcitic lime from a local store to boost the PH and calcium as soon as possible (I applied about 50lbs for 1000sqft) and will apply more in 6-8 weeks.
But the soil also needs potassium. It has enough enough nitrogen and I use a push reel mower so I was looking at a way to add potassium to it. Potassium sulfate seems like the best for growing plants but it would be a pain to spread. And if I get a high nitrogen-high potassium fertilizers I fear that it will wreak havoc with the balance of the soil and microorganisms. Last fertilizer I applied is a slow release organic fertilizer recommended by a certain lawn care "nut".
Any suggestions about how to add potassium sulfate, muriate or some equivalent? My lawn is mostly established but there are spots where I overseeded and there are spots where I am trying to establish new grass to fight the removed crabgrass.
But the soil also needs potassium. It has enough enough nitrogen and I use a push reel mower so I was looking at a way to add potassium to it. Potassium sulfate seems like the best for growing plants but it would be a pain to spread. And if I get a high nitrogen-high potassium fertilizers I fear that it will wreak havoc with the balance of the soil and microorganisms. Last fertilizer I applied is a slow release organic fertilizer recommended by a certain lawn care "nut".
Any suggestions about how to add potassium sulfate, muriate or some equivalent? My lawn is mostly established but there are spots where I overseeded and there are spots where I am trying to establish new grass to fight the removed crabgrass.
#2
03-31-16, 06:00 AM
Member
Potassium
Thinking back to my classes in vocational agriculture, I remember that muriate of potash is quick-acting and sulfate of potash is slow-acting. I suggest you visit your local garden center or farmers coop to see what is available. The third number in the fertilizer analysis designation is the percentage potassium. The first number is the nitrogen content and the second is phosphorus.
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After doing some research I'm guessing my ground is too acidic due to the moss growing in the front yard. Might need to add some lime to raise the pH. I found out my county does free soil testing so I am going to get on that ASAP to figure out how to amend the soil (if needed).
Following any soil amendment my thought was to focus on getting the current grass healthy this spring/summer (eliminating clover, weeds, and moss), then then reseed the lawn in the fall since I have to wait some time anyways after applying any herbicide. So, my program would be something like this:
Now: test soil, amend as necessary
Late Spring: apply weed and feed for clover/weeds, and moss-out for moss
Summer: apply turf builder
Late Summer/Fall: reseed bare spots, bringing in top soil as necessary.
I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts on this! My lawn is looking pretty sad!