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  #41  
Old 05-27-17, 07:46 PM
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Can I plant the Scott's EZ Seed if the forecast calls for rain most of the next week or should I wait for a sunny stretch?

Also my lawn is very weedy, with clover, broadleaf, etc. Do you think it would be safe to just add some lime without getting a soil test? I read that lots of weeds means you most likely need some lime. I don't think my lawn has ever been limed or at least I've never donw it in the 3 years I've been here.
 

Last edited by Brian1900; 05-27-17 at 08:13 PM.
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  #42  
Old 05-28-17, 04:42 AM
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The grass seeds will need to be watered frequently to get it to germinate. I would plant and let Mother Nature do the watering.
 
  #43  
Old 05-28-17, 08:02 AM
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The grass seeds will need to be watered frequently to get it to germinate. I would plant and let Mother Nature do the watering.
Yeah, but we only have 2 days with a little sun coming up for a week I think.
 
  #44  
Old 05-28-17, 05:22 PM
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Seed doesn't have leaves. It doesn't care about sun. In order to germinate the seed needs it to be warm enough and it needs moisture.
 
  #45  
Old 05-28-17, 07:04 PM
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Seed doesn't have leaves. It doesn't care about sun. In order to germinate the seed needs it to be warm enough and it needs moisture.
Thanks! It's 48 right now at 10pm. The days get in mid 50 to 60's. 70's if it was sunny.
 
  #46  
Old 05-29-17, 05:34 AM
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Fescue needs soil temperature of at least 50-65f depending on the variety for germination. The good thing is the seed is smart and will sprout when conditions are right. If it's too cool when you plant now the seed will just wait until you warm up a bit more.
 
  #47  
Old 05-29-17, 07:13 PM
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The very edge near the sidewalk is a little low compared to the rest of the lawn and there's some crabgrass and weeds. Can I just put some topsoil over the weeds and stuff and build this area up a little and then plant the grass seed?

Will burying the existing crabgrass and weeds kill them?
 
  #48  
Old 05-30-17, 04:58 AM
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Unless you remove all the roots or chemically kill them the odds are the weeds/crabgrass will come back. Adding top soil should help the grass seed to grow.
 
  #49  
Old 05-30-17, 05:12 AM
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Yes, you can add dirt on top of what's there now and plant your seed. If the soil addition is only a few inches thick most of what's there now will grow up through the dirt so you'll still have the crabgrass.
 
  #50  
Old 05-30-17, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Drian1900
". . . Do you think it would be safe to just add some lime without getting a soil test? . . ."
Why . . . . what's the rush ?

Wouldn't there be some wisdom in getting the Soil Test (which could very well be free) and then know the severity of the pH problem (if any) that you're attempting to rectify.
 
  #51  
Old 05-30-17, 12:50 PM
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I also have a lot of green clover on the front lawn and back lawn. I guess though it used to be desired and I don't really have a big problem with it. I read that it can help nourish the lawn by pulling nitrogen from the air and feeding the ground or lawn.

Also, I read that clover can be a symptom of your soil being low in lime or something.

I'm going to attempt to plant my new grass seed in a couple places. We're still having a lot of clouds and rain here in Westbrook Maine lately. The whole month of May has been rainy really.

I'm going to try and take before and after pictures and keep everyone posted. I'm using the Scott's Easy seed sun and shade mix. It's got the fertilizer, seed and mulch all in one. I bought one of those green seed sheets to put over it also as I get a lot of birds in the front lawn in the morning with a birdfeeder.
 
  #52  
Old 05-30-17, 04:50 PM
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Clover is great stuff. It really doesn't need much mowing, it fixes nitrogen into the soil and it makes pretty flowers. The only reason to get rid of it is if you want grass. They are both green and cover the ground so I can't say one is better than the other unless you are putting in a soccer field.
 
  #53  
Old 05-31-17, 12:29 PM
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Ok all, The next few days looks like we may get a little sun, so I'm going to make an attempt at a "test" area. This is the front of the front lawn. My entire front lawn I'm guessing is maybe 12x50 ft. It's really not a big lawn by any means.

Anyways the little test area is on the corner right near the sidewalk. It's all weeds basically. I'm not sure what type, but I'm going to take a pic tomorrow. So I guess I've got nothing big to lose if I do maybe a 4x4 ft section.

I only purchased two 40 lb bags of topsoil also right now. Another thing is that I just grabbed any old type and someone said the TOPSOIL will have weed seed in it also.

Anyways, I'm thinking of just getting a metal garden rake and raking these weeds in the 4x4 section out as best I can and then digging the dirt up maybe 4 inches or more down and picking as much of the weed roots as I can out. Then I want to build the area up a little with the new topsoil and then pack it down a little and put my Scott's EZ seed and a grass cover and call it good.

Of course then I'll water is religiously for the next few weeks. Am I wasting my time? Temps are in the 50-70 now here in Maine, mostly mid 60 during day. Lots of rain right now, hardly any sun.
 
  #54  
Old 06-01-17, 09:57 AM
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Here's some pics of today's effort - 3 hours of work
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and with the EZ seed down
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Is this a grub? and what's the brown thing?
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  #55  
Old 06-01-17, 04:10 PM
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I' wondering if I should cover the seed with compost? A thin layer? I was going to use a germination blanket that degrades, but I heard that they can mess things up. The only I thing I fear is birds eating the seed.

It does have mulch in the seed. Is that considered a cover?
 
  #56  
Old 06-02-17, 05:49 AM
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I would cover with straw if you want to cover. Compost could be OK but compost is a very loosely defined item and some can be too heavy and too hot with nutrients.
 
  #57  
Old 06-02-17, 10:00 AM
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I would cover with straw if you want to cover. Compost could be OK but compost is a very loosely defined item and some can be too heavy and too hot with nutrients.
Thanks Pilot Dane! I covered with "Mainely Mulch" I think it's called. It's basically mulched up straw, that's supposedly 'virtually weed free'. I got it at a local Lawn and Garden around Maine.

I've been watering pretty good, but not so much it pools "like the directions say". 2 days so far and no grass growth yet. I think it's supposed to take 5 days at least for the EZ seed.

I'll see what happens ....

Well, it's actually a day and 1/2, so maybe I'm jumping the gun a little?! LOL
It's 65 F and we got a lot of sun today and rain expected tonight.
 
  #58  
Old 06-02-17, 10:31 AM
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It generally takes 5-10 days for the sprouts to come up .... and weeks for the new grass to get established.
 
  #59  
Old 06-02-17, 02:09 PM
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Thanks everyone! Now I read that the straw mulch can form wheat grass and stuff and weeds in your new grass! YIKES! Always something!

Anyways, Like I said, I'm using the Scott's EZ Seed sun and shade mix (cool season grasses) and it kind of has a mulch built in and everything. You water it and of course it expands and stuff kind of forming what appears as a mud covering or something.

What would happen if I just left this as is and watered it regularly? I mean do you think I really should cover it since it has a mulch built in? I mean, maybe some birds may eat a few seeds on the top, but I think the seeds are also in the mulch too underneath and stuff. I also had the first area (9x6.5 ft) uncovered for the first 2 days and I never once saw a bird on it and we get birds feeding in the bird feeder out there every morning.

Also, I'm watering morning and night religiously for the last 2 days. I'm trying to be somewhere in the middle with regard to watering. I don't want to under or over water, but of course it's hard to tell, I guess you just have to use common sense.

When I initially lay down the EZ seed and mulch I do water it until I start to see it pooling slightly on top and then stop. I also put the hose on mist and don't spray to hard directly on the area because I want the seeds to stay layed out even as they were shook on.

Anyways, this is exciting! Hopefully I'll see a little action soon ..... if not then well I had fun and I guess I'll have to try again all over ....
 
  #60  
Old 06-04-17, 06:56 PM
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I'm using a garden hose on "shower" setting. I usually water a couple minutes until I see a little water build on the surface and then stop.

If I stick my finger in the mulch later it feels damp, but not very soggy or anything. 4 days going on 5 and I don't think I see anything yet. It says it should be moist not soggy. Does that mean if I pull my finger out it should have water on it?

I would say the soil is more damp than moist, but I guess it's relative. We haven't really had many days in the 60's either, so maybe that's it. Although today it got to about 68F.
 
  #61  
Old 06-07-17, 12:25 PM
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Ok ,we got our first SUN here in over a week maybe here in Westbrook Maine and I'm happy to say that I see "a few" SPROUTS coming through the mulch in the EZ seed!

They're maybe a little under an inch and light green in color and look like what I see in pictures online.

We had tons of rain yesterday and today I've showered both areas down until I just start to see puddling and then I stop more or less. I can also see that some seeds on top look like they're cracking open a little.

The forecast says that Friday is going to rain, but the next 6 days after is going to be in the 70-80 range and sunny and a little clouds.
 
  #62  
Old 06-08-17, 08:09 PM
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Here's a night shot of my new grass coming up from EZ Seed 8 days after sowing!

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  #63  
Old 06-12-17, 12:17 PM
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Ok guys my grass is coming in nicely, at least in one 9x7ft area that I reseeded. It's covered well and is about 1 1/2 inches tall now I'd say. I planted it June 1st and today's June 12th.

I'm wondering what more should do to care for the grass. Do I just keep watering it?

1. When should I add more fertilizer? Do I have to add more? This was Scott's EZ Seed and had starter fertilizer in it.

2. Do you think that most of the grass that's up now is the perennial Rye? It also has Fescue and Bluegrass in the mix, but I'm assuming the Bluegrass is not coming up yet.

3. Should I be setting the hose (I'm watering manually) to SHOWER or MIST? I'm watering 3 or 4 times a day now that it's in the 90's for a couple days.
 
  #64  
Old 06-14-17, 07:27 PM
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Here's my grass 14 days in from planting EZ Seed.
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  #65  
Old 06-15-17, 05:13 AM
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1. Generally I do not fertilize during summer. If your daytime temps don't go above the mid 80's during summer I might do another fertilizing in 6 weeks but since you've already got 90's it's risky. Fertilizing can be a double edged sword. If it's cool enough it will help the grass grow faster but as temperatures warm it increases the chance the grass will get a fungal disease. The fast growing fertilized grass is tender. Without fertilizer the grass grows more slowly and it's outer surface is tougher and more able to resist disease.

2. Rye germinates the fastest and is usually the first grass you see come up. Others will take a few days or a week longer. But everything is a range so your seed varieties probably overlap so you've probably got a little bit of everything coming up but first it's mostly rye.

3. I would start backing off on your watering. Mist or shower doesn't matter so much as how much you are putting down and how fast. You don't water to run off as that's wasteful and can wash away your soil. I would drop back to watering once a day and in a week drop back to every other day. As the days get hot fungus becomes a concern and keeping the area constantly wet is bad. Water first thing in the morning when the grass is wet anyhow from dew. Then the grass can thoroughly dry during the day to keep fungus and other diseases in check.
 
  #66  
Old 06-15-17, 07:08 AM
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3. I would start backing off on your watering. Mist or shower doesn't matter so much as how much you are putting down and how fast. You don't water to run off as that's wasteful and can wash away your soil. I would drop back to watering once a day and in a week drop back to every other day. As the days get hot fungus becomes a concern and keeping the area constantly wet is bad. Water first thing in the morning when the grass is wet anyhow from dew. Then the grass can thoroughly dry during the day to keep fungus and other diseases in check.
Thanks Pilot! We're not getting any more 90 degree days at least for the next week. We're now averaging in the 60-70's to maybe 80. I'll cut back to once a day watering now.
 
  #67  
Old 06-15-17, 07:51 AM
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Just be happy that you don't live down here in the transition zone between warm and cool season grasses. Cool season grasses are the most popular but we get 2-3 months where the grass is not happy and often goes dormant for July and August. I have to do my lawn in March-May then nothing again September or October. Even my irrigated, sun shaded, tiny patch of pretty grass really slows it's growth for several months.
 
  #68  
Old 06-17-17, 05:38 AM
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Just be happy that you don't live down here in the transition zone between warm and cool season grasses. Cool season grasses are the most popular but we get 2-3 months where the grass is not happy and often goes dormant for July and August. I have to do my lawn in March-May then nothing again September or October. Even my irrigated, sun shaded, tiny patch of pretty grass really slows it's growth for several months.
Be happy you don't have 3 months of summer like we do and then it's back to cold and snow for 9 months!
 
  #69  
Old 06-17-17, 05:48 AM
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I doubt anywhere has perfect weather all the time ........ except on my mountain top, excluding the bad days of course
 
  #70  
Old 06-17-17, 06:54 PM
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Ok. I'm getting a good deal of crabgrass sprouts coming up in my new grass. What should I do? Should I worry right now? I've been pulling them out one by one, but there's maybe 100 more!!! YIKES!!!
 
  #71  
Old 06-18-17, 04:18 AM
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We've already covered that numerous times and it won't get any better as the weather warms.
 
  #72  
Old 06-18-17, 08:01 AM
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We've already covered that numerous times and it won't get any better as the weather warms.
Sorry, I forgot. I hope maybe the grass will beat out the crabgrass some how, but I have my doubts!
Maybe in the fall when the crab dies I can fill those areas in with grass seed??
 
  #73  
Old 06-18-17, 09:46 AM
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Crabgrass won't die on it's own or from cold weather - you need to either pull it up roots and all or kill it with chemicals - the latter is more effective.
 
  #74  
Old 06-18-17, 05:37 PM
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Crabgrass is very tenacious and a vigorous grower so it's extremely difficult to get more desirable grasses to out compete it without chemical help.

Take a step back and take a deep breath. Crabgrass is not evil. It is just another plant. It just happens to be one that you don't favor. When mowed it doesn't look that much different from other grasses. Probably it's most annoying tendency is to send it's runners out over driveways and walkways but other than that it's just another grass.

Crabgrass dies in freezing temperatures but grows back from seed. So, the easiest way to beat it is with chemicals to break its growing cycle. Pre-emergent herbicides create a barrier on the soil to prevent germination. There are also other herbicides to stop it once it's sprouted but it will always be a battle.
 
  #75  
Old 06-18-17, 08:42 PM
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Crabgrass is very tenacious and a vigorous grower so it's extremely difficult to get more desirable grasses to out compete it without chemical help.
Thanks Pilot Dane! Maybe I'll have to eventually resort to chemicals then. It seems to only be within 5 feet of the sidewalks anyways. I have a feeling that the soil there might be bad or something and might need lime or something.

I FORGOT that before I ripped up the 9x6 area and tilled it it was 95% crabgrass anyways! Now it's maybe 20% or something and there's quite a bit of grass (that I just planted). There wasn't ANY grass there that I can recall. I'll post a pic tomorrow.
 
  #76  
Old 06-19-17, 05:39 AM
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Crabgrass dies back every winter as it can't tolerate freezing temperatures but it rapidly re-grows from seed. Crabgrass requires warmer temperatures than rye and Fescue grasses so more desirable grasses tend to dominate in spring but once the temperatures warm crabgrass can rapidly appear and take over. So, be prepared to see more of it and it will spread.
 
  #77  
Old 06-23-17, 10:55 PM
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Ok, it's now been 23 days since planting my grass seed and the area is in pretty good, but (to me) it doesn't seem to be getting much over 3 inches long now, although it may be. I am watering it now about once a day pretty deep and it's been raining here and there and temps hover around 80 during the day now.

I'm wondering when I should cut it for the first time and if there's anything else I should be doing, like adding fertilizer or anything. It was Scott's EZ seed and it had starter fertilizer in it and now we're at 23 days since planting.

Can someone give me some advice?

It's coming in well, but of course is not really THICK yet and of course there's a lot of crabgrass that I was told to not worry about right now. I'll try and post a pic later today.
 
  #78  
Old 06-25-17, 06:13 PM
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Here's the latest pics 24 days after planting seed. You can see all the NASTY crabgrass! Can I mow it yet??

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