Sprinkler Winterization

Hi All,


I'm an avid DIY'er....and I'm tired of spending around $65/year to get our sprinklers blown out. I think that is just way too high. I'd rather do it myself and save the $$$ every year.



Can someone recommend if this would be a good enough compressor to get the job done? I only have a pancake 3 Gallon Porter Cable right now, I know it doesn't have a high enough CFM to get my job done. I have 9 Zones in all, so its a pretty big/long system.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...sor-61454.html


Also, I have attached a picture of my backflow device. I'm not 100% sure where to hook up the compressor to? I've read/heard that I don't want to put compressed air through the backflow, so I wouldn't want to connect at the bottom or through the test cocks.



Just after the backflow device, I see a possible connection point. This is where my Rid O Rust System injects into the line (to prevent rust stains from hard water). I suppose I could just remove that temporarily and blow it out through there.


If anyone has any suggestions, I'd appreciate it!

 

I always go through the ports that way you can close the lower valve and keep air from entering the house.

I am unfamiliar with what that elec connector is but that would be a good spot and you could completely isolate the backflow valve.

As far as the compressor, I've been doing mine for 40 years so at $65 per year you can get yourself a really good compressor and still save money in the long run..

Dont buy the HF krap!

 

But be sure to drain out that section by taking the bottom plug out as well after you blow out the zones.

I would also tend to agree with the harbor freight compressor. I would recommend a better brand that a store would stand behind if it crapped out early. Don't get me wrong, I like HFT, just noting that has a motor.

 

The sprinkler systems that I blow out are all done from the basement. I have worked them over to have their own shutoff... spigot... (to drain the entire line and allow air in) and a type m air fitting behind another shutoff. And I do them with a little 2 hp Emglo. I allow it to pump up between zones and then run through each zone about 3x for good measure.

 

That is a point I forgot, you need to drain the valve after the zones, As noted getting all the water out all the way inside the house is needed.

Those BFP internals are not very robust!

As for the compressor, you want a piston type compresses more CFM.

A good compressor will last a lifetime, I'm 35 years into my no brand (US components) and still going strong, thats been a savings of over $2K doing my sprinklers!

 

Thanks for all of the feedback everyone! So, after doing some further research, I'm going to blow out my system and connect the compressor to that area where my Rid O Rust system injects (Marq1.......you had asked that question what the electrical was.........that's the signal line coming from the valve controls for the Rid O Rust system, going directly to the Stenner Injection Pump in the basement. That way, when the sprinklers kick on, it sends a signal to the pump to start pumping the Rid O Rust into the lines. The other line going to the T is the fluid line for the injection of the Rid O Rust Chemical. As mentioned, this prevents rust stains from our hard water on our concrete/house. We have a long driveway/sidewalk so wanted to make sure it stays white).

I've seen so many mixed reviews on connecting through the test ports to blow out the system. Some say do, some say don't. I'm sure it's fine if you're keeping 60psi or lower, but why risk it if I don't have to. I can unscrew the Rid O Rust connection by hand, and just get a 1/2" NPT fitting to adapt the compressor to. Like Marq1 said, then I'm completely isolating the PVB and I can just drain that manually when done.