I looked at youtube videos about this and wanted to check a few things. Older 5000's didn't have an easy way to adjust the left stop? You had to take care to put it in the ground correctly lined up? Or later, unscrew the big ring at top and physically rotate the guts in the outer housing then re-tighten the big ring? But then in 2011 people started saying there's a slip clutch? With the water off (that seems to be an important point), you can simply turn the head to the left stop then twist it a bit more counter clockwise to where you want the left stop? And if you want to shorten the left stop / move it clockwise, you just turn the head 350 degrees counterclockwise? But the key thing is the water has to be off? I would watch my sprinkler company do spring startup - they'd rotate the heads I guess to see that they rotate freely / see where the stops are with the water on / heads popped up. I have a couple 5000s now that don't rotate now. they are 6 years old. a) is that typical that over 6 years, maybe 3 of 50 heads have problems? b) could the spinning by the sprinkler company done something? they were doing similar things - turning the heads with water on to see the arc / maybe adjust left stop?) on other heads that are working fine.

Howdy guys! Thanks in advance for any help you can provide on this. Our house is from 1990. The irrigation system isn't much newer. We just moved in a couple years ago. I thought I had the irrigation system figured out enough to use it, but I had a ball valve break last year, presumably due to improper winterization. On top of that, my confidence level is not high on knowing what each valve does, and which ones should be turned off when. I threw together this diagram of what I know about the valve/turnoff system. Its attached to this post. The three circles on the left side are what you see when looking down at the ground. The valves are down in the pipes 3 feet or so. I don’t know why there are three valves. The one at the top seems to be the main, the second one controls the flow to the system, and the third one is a mystery. The rest is pretty a pretty standard backflow preventer/valve box setup, but I could use advice on spring/summer procedures for that part. Ball valve 4 is broken right now, but it still works in the open position, and only leaks when closed. [attach]104089[/attach]