Sprinkler head trickling water when off


  #41  
Old 09-03-23, 09:15 AM
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Tumble Question for you. If I wanted to replace the whole valve body, can I do so by twisting it out? I don't want to cut/break pipes like I've seen in some YouTube videos. I'm thinking the valve body is compromised and maybe that's why I'm having trouble with the nut cap.

Would I remove that gray clamp on the black pipe and then just unscrew?

Thank you!
 
  #42  
Old 09-05-23, 08:19 AM
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I think at his point it's time to call in a pro. The odds of something being wrong with the valve body on what was a functioning valve prior to disassembly is close to nil. Removing a threaded on valve body from a buried inline valve is a lot of work. You will be introducing two potential leak points.
 
  #43  
Old 09-06-23, 01:43 PM
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Thank you for that advice. That's what I was thinking too. But I couldn't resist and decided to go ahead and remove the valve body (before you made your post) since I had time on Monday.

After removing the Zone 4 valve body from the ground, I brought the valve into my house, rinsed it out, and attempted to reassemble the valve. I figured I would try it again since it was easier to manipulate when it's not in the ground, connected to pipes. When I try the old Zone 5 cover assembly and the existing Zone 4 cover assembly on the Zone 4 valve body that I just removed, it is still loose. But when I try either cover assembly on the new valve body, both are on tight and secure. So clearly, the issue rests with the Zone 4 valve body. Something with the Zone 4 valve body is not letting the valve parts be screwed on tight.

It doesn't make any sense why the cover assembly is loose when the nut cap is screwed onto the Zone 4 valve body, but is tight on the new valve body.
 
  #44  
Old 09-14-23, 12:42 PM
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Hi, I wanted to update you. I had a lot of problem putting the new valve body in Zone 4. I called in my sprinkler guy. He told me that back when he opened up the sprinkler for the summer, he replaced the guts of the Zone 4 valve b/c one of the sprinkler heads in the zone was not popping up properly. Even after replacing the guts, it was better, but still not 100% fixed. He didn't charge me for that at the time, telling me to keep an eye on it.



I showed the sprinkler guy the issue with the Zone 4 valve and how the cover assembly was loose. The sprinkler guy confirmed that Zone 4 needed an entirely new valve and he put in a Hunter valve since that's what he uses. He said the irritrol valves usually have a lot of problems go wrong with it and he likes the Hunter valves. So I now have a Hunter in Zone 4. I figure I'll systematically get Hunter valves going forward if and when the other valves fail. And yes, the sprinkler head that wasn't popping up properly is now popping up perfectly with the new Hunter valve.



I'm happy to say that the Zone 4 valve is working and what I did with the Zone 5 valve solved the leaking sprinkler head issue. The sprinkler guy was very proud of me for my work with Zone 5. He told me I did a great job replacing the guts of the valve.



Thank you for all of your help!
 
 

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