2X4 vs. metal bracefor fan box?
#1
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2X4 vs. metal bracefor fan box?
Not exactly an electrical question, but this relates to ceiling fans so I thought I'd try.
I planning an installation of a ceiling fan and I thought I'd center it in the room, which would locate it between 2 ceiling joists. I have access to the ceiling from the attic and I thought I'd attach a fan box to a wood 2X4 then attach the 2X4 betweenthe joists. Or, would it be better to use a metal frame to run between the joists?
Thanks in advance.
I planning an installation of a ceiling fan and I thought I'd center it in the room, which would locate it between 2 ceiling joists. I have access to the ceiling from the attic and I thought I'd attach a fan box to a wood 2X4 then attach the 2X4 betweenthe joists. Or, would it be better to use a metal frame to run between the joists?
Thanks in advance.
#2
The advantage to the fan brace kit is that it can be installed from below, that it is adjustable, and that it aligns itself for height, and can be adjusted for box position between the joists. But it costs about $20.
The advantage to the 2x4 is that it costs almost nothing. But you have to climb into the attic to install it, probably multiple times (once to measure for it, once or more to go up and find out you didn't cut it just right, and once more to install it).
The 2x4 is probably stronger (especially if you put it in with 16-penny nails), but the fan brace kit is strong enough anyway.
If you use the 2x4, be sure to buy a fan-rated box.
The advantage to the 2x4 is that it costs almost nothing. But you have to climb into the attic to install it, probably multiple times (once to measure for it, once or more to go up and find out you didn't cut it just right, and once more to install it).
The 2x4 is probably stronger (especially if you put it in with 16-penny nails), but the fan brace kit is strong enough anyway.
If you use the 2x4, be sure to buy a fan-rated box.
#5
I agree with that hint. Predrill the holes for the 3" deck screws to make them go in easier. All the force is shearing force, so you can afford to drill a large enough hole to make the screw go in easily. This also makes it easy to back them back out if you need to redo anything.
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Thanks for the suggestion regarding the use of deck screws versus nails.
Any reason why deck screws versus 3" course-thread, general construction screws?
Any reason why deck screws versus 3" course-thread, general construction screws?
#7
They're roughly equivalent. They probably have different shank thicknesses, and thus have different shearing strengths, but this application isn't going to stress them very much anyway. The shank diameter on either one is less than a 16d nail. If you're worried about it, put three of them in each side for a bit extra strength.
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Originally Posted by GaetanoL
Thanks for the suggestion regarding the use of deck screws versus nails.
Any reason why deck screws versus 3" course-thread, general construction screws?
Any reason why deck screws versus 3" course-thread, general construction screws?