Transformer Identification

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  #1  
Old 05-30-07, 01:32 PM
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Question Transformer Identification

Below are the numbers embossed on the tranformer for the underwater
halogen light in my swimming pool. The transformer is housed in a weather
proof box away from the pool. The manufacturer wants $200 + S/H for the
replacement part which includes the weather proof box. Jinkers, it kills me
to see the pool pros gouge the consumer.

680001 A+
OBJY2 130R2
EIA172-0221 H

I have tested the bulb for continuity with positve results. I think the
tranformer is shot. I have tried GOOGLING these but came up empty.
The pool accessory manufacture will not provide the name of the
transformer manufacturer.

Any help would be appreciated.

gsharpe
 
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  #2  
Old 05-30-07, 01:40 PM
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Those numbers won't anything without a manufacturer. You might find it at light manufacturer site.
 
  #3  
Old 05-30-07, 07:10 PM
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you can always google for "pool light transformer" and look until you find the one that looks like yours. may take a bit but i bet it can be done.
 
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Old 05-31-07, 11:17 AM
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how about looking at the bulb ... does it have any information like 12v 50w ? then find a transformer that can meet these specs?
 
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Old 05-31-07, 11:36 AM
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Smile Clarification

They folks that assemble swimming pool accessories (like lights) generally acquire the components (like transformers) from external suppliers and manufacturers. In my case the company that produces the "Aqualuminator"
pool light is "PentAir". PentAir puts a tranformer into a UL rated weather
proof box and sells it for $200.00. I am not intrerested in buy PentAirs
"boxed transformer" for $200.00. I just want to know where they get the
transfomer in the box or just the specifications of the tranformer.

PentAir does not want to give me this info, siting safety issues. However,
if I could get the same transformer from their supplier, I might save $$$.
Similiarly, if I find a transformer that meets or exceeds their specs the
same savings could be realized without any risk.

I have gone over every part looking for clues. The only info I have found is
given in the original post.

Thanks to everyone for their contributions.
 
  #6  
Old 05-31-07, 05:19 PM
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How many volts are the lights?
How many watts of lights do you have connected to this transformer?
Is this 120 or 240 volt feed to the lights?
 
  #7  
Old 06-01-07, 08:35 AM
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Angry Reply for joed

How many volts are the lights?

Unknown. There are no visible markings on the illumination unit. The
illumination unit is a seal waterproof module that houses the light bulb and
also serves as the water return nozzle for the pools filtration system.

How many watts of lights do you have connected to this transformer?

The is a single bulb inside the ilumination unit. Looking through the lense,
it appears to be a halogen bulb. It's wattage rating is not indicated.

Is this 120 or 240 volt feed to the lights?

The voltage coming into the transformer is 120.The tarnsformer output is
unknown.

FYI:

From the codes/numbers listed in the original post, I found that the code
"EIA172-0221 H" is the Underwriter Laboratries manufacturers code.
So the manufacturer I found is ENSIGN Corp. I spoke with an engineer at
ENSIGN. The transformer I have is purchased by PentAir Pool Products
for the Aqualuminator light that I am trying to repair. ENSIGN is contractually
bound to "NOT" sale this tranformer to anyone other than PentAir, nor can
they release any of the transformer specifications.

I AM S.O.L. AND P.O.ed
 
  #8  
Old 06-01-07, 12:38 PM
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If you can get the watts and the volts off the light you can probably get a replacement. All you need to find a replacement is the input volts, the output volts and the watts.
I imagine it is difficult to get the bulb out as it under water??
 
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Old 06-01-07, 12:52 PM
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Last resort.

As a matter of fact I can get the illumination unit out, but removing the bulb
will destroy the unit.

At this point I am ready to throw in the towel and trash the light.
I have a number of DC transformers that I have saved from discarded
appliances. I plan to experiment with them each systematically from least
voltage to highest and try to find one that works. If I blow the bulb so
what?

Thanks for the help. Have a nice summer.
 
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Old 06-11-07, 04:50 PM
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ugh I am having the same problem.

Let me know if you have any luck. I have been searching over a year now for that box. * sigh*
 
  #11  
Old 06-12-07, 11:36 AM
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Question Just a thought.

A picture is normally worth a thousand words, in this case it would be worth a million. I can't begin to imagine what this transformer looks like. If you could take a picture of it and post it here.
You may also try to find it on ebay. Sometimes contractors have leftover parts from one job they'll never use again and rather than warehousing the item trhey'll sell it on ebay.
Good luck!
 
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Old 06-28-07, 06:30 PM
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i dont know how to post a pic..
http://i13.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/9b/1e/a747_1_b.JPG
 

Last edited by mickilee; 06-28-07 at 06:32 PM. Reason: trying to post picture
  #13  
Old 06-29-07, 05:53 AM
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What does that label say? It should list the primary voltage & watts and secondary voltage & milliamps (and whether it's AC or DC).

First, though ... Have you checked to see if the AC receptacle that powers the transformer is getting power? Have you opened the box to see if there's an internal fuse, CB, or GFCI?

One way to test a transformer is to use a multimeter set to ohms. Disconnect everything from both the recep and the transformer and measure the input side, then the output side. If you read "OL" on either side, that transformer winding is open. If you read zero ohms on either side, the transformer is shorted. If you have one legit resistance reading on the primary and a different one on the secondary, the transformer is probably ok.
 
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Old 06-29-07, 07:35 AM
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All transformers should measure near zero ohms when measured with a multimeter. The problem is that a multimeter can only measure resistance, but a transformer operates on inductance, which cannot be measured by a battery-operated multimeter.
 
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Old 06-29-07, 10:20 PM
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"The problem is that a multimeter can only measure resistance, but a transformer operates on inductance, which cannot be measured by a battery-operated multimeter."

True -- AC impedance cannot be measured with a multimeter set to DC ohms. However, all wire has a DC resistance that increases with length. A transformer consists of coils of insulated wire. Even though the DC resistance may be only a few ohms, it is still measureable.
 
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Old 09-11-07, 06:56 PM
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Red face another kink in this

I'm in the same boat with these guys. I'm trying to replace a 120v to 12v transformer for my pool light. That unit has 2 blue IN leads and 2 smaller black OUT leads.
I found one at Radio Shack... I thought... problem is the radioshack transformer has 3 leads on the IN side: 2 yellow and one black. I dont know what to make of that. Is the black necessary? Can it just be capped off?

I've tried different connection configurations and fortunately have only blown out a circuit breaker.

I'd laugh except it hurts when I cry.
 
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Old 06-16-08, 09:56 AM
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TRansfomer identification

Hello all!1

Hey, this is the very same issue we are having with our AquaLuminator Above Ground Pool light. Did this ever get reconciled? Were you able to replace the transformer with another non-manufacture transformer? Please Advise!!

Thanks,
Christy
 
  #18  
Old 06-16-08, 11:41 AM
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Bad wire

After alot of checkng I found that the wire from the transformer to the light broken.
The wire is buried so I took the light out of service. Not worth the touble. I think I still have the transformer in my recycle me box.
What can I do to help?

gsharpe
 
  #19  
Old 06-17-08, 07:54 AM
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TRansfomer identification

Thanks.

We had a neighbor who is an electrician come over yesterday and he determined that the transformer is working, the switch is working but the bulb is not. He said if we knew what type of bulb it was(all specs), he may be able to get one for us at his discount. However, it appears that this is a bulb assembly replacement unit, rather than just a universal haologen bulb. Any advice?

Christy
 
  #20  
Old 06-17-08, 08:26 AM
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Bad Bulb

My bulb was part of the fitting where water returns from the pump. I removed the bulb assembly and used an expandable rubber plug to close the hole but sill allowing proper water flow. The bulb assembly is glued together at the lense. You may be able to cut the glued seam with a hack saw, change the bulb and reglue it. There is a good chance you will ruin the assembly but it is worth a shot. The alternative is to go to a pool supplier an pay through the nose.

I get annoyed at the way the pool manufactureres and suppliers design and market their products to gouge the consumer. I do everything possible to retrofit my pool plumbing to standard parts. In the long run it saves me alot of $$$$.

LOL
Greg
 
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Old 06-17-08, 05:57 PM
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TRansfomer identification

Thanks Greg.

Like you, I try to find every possible way to skip the high cost of manufacturers prices, yet this is one area my husband and I are not comfortable with retrofitting. I did find the bulb assembly unit online for $39.99 plus the highest postal price I've seen for these types of things -an additional $9.99!!

Oh well, thank you to everyone who answered.

Christy
 
  #22  
Old 06-18-08, 06:09 AM
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Wisdom

Christy,

I think that it is wise to spend the $$$ and buy the new part. As an engineer I can atest to the affects that chemicals and thermal expansion can have on equipment. When it comes to electrical equipment around the pool, perfection is not optional. It would be tragic to have an activity meant for our enjoyment turn into a serious accident. Relax and enjoy your pool with the peace of mind that comes from knowing that the equipment is safe and working properly.

gsharpe
 
  #23  
Old 08-01-08, 06:49 AM
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Pentair AquaLuminator Transformer Specs

Hi,

If you are looking for quick specs:
Bulb= 75watts
Input voltage= 120v
Output voltage= 12v

Sorry this note is so long after the original posts. However, I ended up here after my new AquaLuminator transformer died and Pentair would not replace it.

As an electrical engineer I felt qualified to diagnose the problem. Voltage to the unit was fine, bulb worked, what else was there?

I had opened the unit and the workmanship of the connections was shoddy at best. The unit was loose in the plastic housing and the crimped connections were poor. One connection even had strands sticking out coming in contact with the transformer. Moisture inside the unit had caused the failuer since the unit was not selaed properly.

Since i opened it, I voided any warranty. They weren't going to provide a new one anyway.

I replaced the transformer with the following unit NRA-29/75W

http://www.besthomesystems.com/light...pe=transformer


This transformer is $30 and it fits right into the Pentair transformer housing exactly.

The Pentair Aqualuminator transformer box is closed via 5 Philips screws. 3 of these screws "attempt" to seal the cables but do a poor job and let moisture in.

I recommed using a weatherproof silicone to seal the unit around the edges before you assemble the two parts of the transformer plastic case.

Hope this helps.

Disatisfied Pentair customer.
 
  #24  
Old 08-01-08, 07:09 AM
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Good news

Thanks for the post.
I took my light out last year.
The I still have it in storage.
With this information it will back in service soon.
 
  #25  
Old 06-19-10, 08:29 PM
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Great topic. I believe my transformer is shot but I'm having a friend check it out in a few days. The link to a new transformer is a great help if needed. I'll post my results.
 
  #26  
Old 06-23-10, 07:10 AM
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My transformer is OK. It must be the bulb which is $40-$50. Nobody ever said pools are cheap! The water itself is cheap. Around $.005/gallon around here.
 
  #27  
Old 05-28-11, 10:35 AM
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i am in the same boat or pool should we say I bought the light from the great escape and after a year the light works for a while then cuts out and comes back on a new light is 100.00 and just for the transformer they want 94.00 so i think i'm just gonna replace the whole light and then i'll have another 1 year warranty
 
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