Kitchen lights
#1
12-13-08, 03:08 PM
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Kitchen lights
How far off the outside wall are over-the-sink kitchen lights generally placed on the ceiling?
#2
12-13-08, 04:51 PM
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Over sink lighting is typically installed within the bounds of the 12" x 36" (standard sink base) area. Fixture is usually centered.
You do not indicate what type of lighting you plan to install. Recessed, fluorescent, or other. Pendant lights are the popular trend these days. See below.
Photo Credit: danielskitchenbath
Kitchen lighting fixtures and designing lighting for the kitchen
Designing with Light in the Kitchen - American Lighting Association
You do not indicate what type of lighting you plan to install. Recessed, fluorescent, or other. Pendant lights are the popular trend these days. See below.
Kitchen lighting fixtures and designing lighting for the kitchen
Designing with Light in the Kitchen - American Lighting Association
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12-13-08, 05:32 PM
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The only problem I have with this kitchen is height of outlets. These are usually 6" above counter. That would be 2" above the 4" standard backsplash, which this kitchen does not have. Even with 4" standard backsplash, the outlets are still too high.
Here's another photo by same designer with high outlets, but shows a recessed light above the sink that is centered in the space.
Photo Credit: danielskitchenbath
Here's another photo by same designer with high outlets, but shows a recessed light above the sink that is centered in the space.
Where there is no window, an option is to do undercabinet lighting to light the sink area.
This photo shows two recessed lights above sink:
Photo Credit: danielskitchenbath
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12-13-08, 06:35 PM
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Thank you. A smaller pendant light over the sink. Pendant lighting arrangement over the island, if you have one, for general lighting. And, undercabinet lighting for task areas.
I can't stress enough about how important it is to consult with a local lighting store that has a lighting engineer on staff. They sell higher quality fixtures and charge a little more. Lighting fixtures are, of course, cheaper at big boxes, but you do not get the engineer input for lighting your workspaces. The engineer will come to your home and work with your decor and your lighting needs. Big boxes do not offer this service and have no lighting engineer on staff.
I can't stress enough about how important it is to consult with a local lighting store that has a lighting engineer on staff. They sell higher quality fixtures and charge a little more. Lighting fixtures are, of course, cheaper at big boxes, but you do not get the engineer input for lighting your workspaces. The engineer will come to your home and work with your decor and your lighting needs. Big boxes do not offer this service and have no lighting engineer on staff.
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12-17-08, 03:04 PM
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Wow, that question is out of the blue.
This isn't exactly the right forum for it, but drywall (of which "Sheetrock" is one trade name) is usually cut by the "score and snap" method. Use a 4-foot T-square, draw your utility knife along the back side of the drywall to score the paper, snap it towards the front side, and then run your utility knife along the crease to cut the front paper. If you need a smoother edge, run a hasp-style plane down the edge.
When you are cutting a window or door opening, you usually mount the drywall sheet first covering the opening, and then saw out the door or window opening using a drywall saw and using the jack studs and sill plates to guide the saw.
When cutting an "L" shaped piece, or any other time the cut doesn't go all the way across the sheet, you use the drywall saw to cut one leg of the cut, and then use the score-and-snap method for the other cut.
Cutting drywall makes a lot of very fine dust, so cut it in an area where you can control the dust distribution.
This isn't exactly the right forum for it, but drywall (of which "Sheetrock" is one trade name) is usually cut by the "score and snap" method. Use a 4-foot T-square, draw your utility knife along the back side of the drywall to score the paper, snap it towards the front side, and then run your utility knife along the crease to cut the front paper. If you need a smoother edge, run a hasp-style plane down the edge.
When you are cutting a window or door opening, you usually mount the drywall sheet first covering the opening, and then saw out the door or window opening using a drywall saw and using the jack studs and sill plates to guide the saw.
When cutting an "L" shaped piece, or any other time the cut doesn't go all the way across the sheet, you use the drywall saw to cut one leg of the cut, and then use the score-and-snap method for the other cut.
Cutting drywall makes a lot of very fine dust, so cut it in an area where you can control the dust distribution.
