3-Brightness Touch-Sensitive Torch Lamp Question
#1
05-18-09, 10:15 AM
3-Brightness Touch-Sensitive Torch Lamp Question
I have two touch sensitive lamps from Target, the type that you touch and they turn on - brighter - brightest - off. One of the lamps lost it's touch sensitivity. To most this may seem like a bad thing, but to me it is perfect because I have it on a receptacle that is controlled by a switch. Now, when I flip the switch it turns on & when I turn the switch off, it turns off. So I tried to connect the other lamp (that is still touch sensitive) on the same outlet & when I turn the switch on, it doesn't turn the lamp on.
My questions are:
For my understanding...why did the first one stop working on touch? all online resources I can find indicate that the touch-sensitive lamps work on temperature, resistence, & radio reception (HowStuffWorks "How do touch-sensitive lamps work?")....and I can't see what would have changed in the one lamp.
Most important...is there any way for me to disable the touch sensitivity in the other lamp as well?
Your insight would be greatly appreciated!
My questions are:
For my understanding...why did the first one stop working on touch? all online resources I can find indicate that the touch-sensitive lamps work on temperature, resistence, & radio reception (HowStuffWorks "How do touch-sensitive lamps work?")....and I can't see what would have changed in the one lamp.
Most important...is there any way for me to disable the touch sensitivity in the other lamp as well?
Your insight would be greatly appreciated!
#2
05-18-09, 10:53 AM
Super Moderator
How to Repair a Touch Lamp | eHow.com
This tells you how to repair common touch lamps. You can use some of the same steps to find the control module and just remove it. You will need to connect the wires directly to the lamp socket using wirenuts, and of course it will always be at high brightness.
Oh, and it won't be UL listed anymore, but I don't think thats a huge issue.
This tells you how to repair common touch lamps. You can use some of the same steps to find the control module and just remove it. You will need to connect the wires directly to the lamp socket using wirenuts, and of course it will always be at high brightness.
Oh, and it won't be UL listed anymore, but I don't think thats a huge issue.
#4
05-18-09, 11:13 AM
Super Moderator
Yes...shouldn't be a problem. After you take the modules out, they are just regular old table lamps without switches.
#6
05-18-09, 08:40 PM
Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,694
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
For some reason the triac in the module shorted out, likely because the bulb catisrophically blew.
#7
05-19-09, 06:02 AM
Since the triac burnt out...can I put that lamp on a dimmer or do I still need to remove the control module all together just to be safe?
I am going to attempt to remove the working lamp's control module this week.
Are the wingnuts you mentioned already inside the base or will I need to purchase them? Hopefully one of your subscribed to this thread because I will likely need to post pictures of the open base and ask for your guidance!!!
Thanks everyone.
I am going to attempt to remove the working lamp's control module this week.
Are the wingnuts you mentioned already inside the base or will I need to purchase them? Hopefully one of your subscribed to this thread because I will likely need to post pictures of the open base and ask for your guidance!!!
Thanks everyone.
#8
05-19-09, 06:06 AM
Super Moderator
Wire nuts..not wing nuts. They may be, but I would think the wires are probably crimped together somehow. You can buy small packs of wirenuts at any hardware store. As to taking the module out, I think it would be best, but I don't have absolute knowledge of that.
#9
05-20-09, 09:14 AM
Ok, so I found the controller. It wasn't in the base. It was inside the pole, near the top. Here are some pictures. Any idea of which wire I need to connect to which other wire?
#10
05-20-09, 10:22 AM
Super Moderator
Wow...those pics made my eyes cross..sorry. Too close and too blurry.
Its pretty basic though...you just want to connect the 2 wires from the power cord to the 2 wires of the lamp socket. There should be a little ridge, flat, stripe, or writing on one side of each 2 wire cord. Connect those together using the proper size wire nuts. Ridge/flat/stripe/writing to ridge/flat/stripe/writing...round/blank to round/blank.
Remove/cut all the wires for the control.
If you feel like it and can afford to lose a little cord length, you could disassemble the lamp socket and just connect the incoming power cord directly to it.
Its pretty basic though...you just want to connect the 2 wires from the power cord to the 2 wires of the lamp socket. There should be a little ridge, flat, stripe, or writing on one side of each 2 wire cord. Connect those together using the proper size wire nuts. Ridge/flat/stripe/writing to ridge/flat/stripe/writing...round/blank to round/blank.
Remove/cut all the wires for the control.
If you feel like it and can afford to lose a little cord length, you could disassemble the lamp socket and just connect the incoming power cord directly to it.
#12
05-26-09, 12:53 PM
The lamps were 50/100/150 watt fixtures. Now that I took out the triac they are delivering 150 watts continuously. However, is it possible for me to put a 100 watt bulb in? The wattage of the bulb determines the amount of current that it draws doesn't it?
The reason I ask is because I want to get dimmable eco-bulbs by GE, but they only go up to 100 watts.
Derek
The reason I ask is because I want to get dimmable eco-bulbs by GE, but they only go up to 100 watts.
Derek
#13
05-26-09, 01:04 PM
Super Moderator
Yes, anything lower wattage is fine. Hope the dimmable bulbs work out..some people report problems. Oh, thats only if they are CFL, regular bulbs should be fine.
