Hunter Fan Wiring
#1
08-08-09, 12:43 AM
Hunter Fan Wiring
We had Hunter fans (model 23529) installed when our house was built and the electricians didn't quite do a good enough job. They told us that they couldn't wire the fans up to regular wall switches and that we'd have to use the remote controls only (a ten second google search proved that wrong). So now we are attempting to wire the switches up ourselves.
In our wall, we have four wires: a black, a white, a red, and a ground. Today we shut the power off and got to work on the system. Installing a switch manually on the red and white wires allows us to control the light from the wall. Flip it up, the light comes on, flip it down, it shuts off.. pretty simple. The problem is with the black wire. (Note: the fan doesn't turn on when the light goes on)
The electricians have it constantly hot. It's permanently wired straight to a power source. So, with a switch installed on the black wire and the power on, it does nothing. Flip it up, no change (the remote control still can turn the fan on and off as well as the light) flip it down, same thing. It's wired straight to household current, but even if that connection is broken, there is no change in the function of the fan. I can't seem to figure out what it does, and the hunter installation manual is no help either.
What I want to do, is very simple. Wire these fans up to two switches (both dimmable, if possible..). One switch controls the light (on, off, and dimmable) and the other switch controls the fan (on, off, and speed adjustable). I can't stand these horrible remote controls. Is that so hard to ask?
Note: Just for the record, I'm no stranger to electricity and household wiring. I'd just like to avoid climbing through the ceilings, tracing wires, and removing heavy fan assemblies.. if possible.
Thanks
.
In our wall, we have four wires: a black, a white, a red, and a ground. Today we shut the power off and got to work on the system. Installing a switch manually on the red and white wires allows us to control the light from the wall. Flip it up, the light comes on, flip it down, it shuts off.. pretty simple. The problem is with the black wire. (Note: the fan doesn't turn on when the light goes on)
The electricians have it constantly hot. It's permanently wired straight to a power source. So, with a switch installed on the black wire and the power on, it does nothing. Flip it up, no change (the remote control still can turn the fan on and off as well as the light) flip it down, same thing. It's wired straight to household current, but even if that connection is broken, there is no change in the function of the fan. I can't seem to figure out what it does, and the hunter installation manual is no help either.
What I want to do, is very simple. Wire these fans up to two switches (both dimmable, if possible..). One switch controls the light (on, off, and dimmable) and the other switch controls the fan (on, off, and speed adjustable). I can't stand these horrible remote controls. Is that so hard to ask?
Note: Just for the record, I'm no stranger to electricity and household wiring. I'd just like to avoid climbing through the ceilings, tracing wires, and removing heavy fan assemblies.. if possible.
Thanks
.
#2
08-08-09, 04:58 AM
Welcome to the forums! First, where does your power come in? At the switch or at the fan/light? Tell us what cables/wires you have coming out at the bell of the fan and how they are currently connected and to what color wires on the fan/light. You appear to have proper wiring to do this, but we need all the information in order to give good advice.
Larry
Larry
#3
08-08-09, 12:18 PM
wiring set up
the 2nd switch, will it be a fan control switch? you cannot use a dimmer on a fan for the motor part.
if there is the hot coming in the the ceiling junction box, then changes to the make up are easy. if you look in the ceiling box they probably have the incoming hot wires to the white of the 4 wire cable going to your switch box, from there ( the wall switch box ) the white should be pigtailed twice and the hot lead pigtial goes to each switch ( the dimmer and the fan speed control switch ). the red wire would go to the light switch , and the black to the fan control switch so you have your switch loops.
at he canopy, remove the remote wire module, you'll be left with 3 wires coming from the fan
a blue lead for lights ( or black with a white stripe ), and a black lead for the fan motor
a ground
and a white
the white lead fromthe fan goes to the white ( neutral ) coming in from the INCOMING hot, ( remember the black INCOMING hot wire is tied to the white 4 wire cable going down to the switch ), the blue ( black white ) light lead wire goes to the red of the 4 wire cable, the black to the black from the 4 wire cable. grounds get all tied together
this should complete the set up
now set both chains pulls to high ( light and motor ) and you should be ready to go.
you need not drop the fan, though if it's a hugger install you might have to remove the blades, and drop the fan ( hang it by steel wire while you make changes ) and then re hang, test, and if all work well then install the blades back. huggers generally have no room to do changes, pole mounts do since you can always slide down the canopy cover for access.
if there is the hot coming in the the ceiling junction box, then changes to the make up are easy. if you look in the ceiling box they probably have the incoming hot wires to the white of the 4 wire cable going to your switch box, from there ( the wall switch box ) the white should be pigtailed twice and the hot lead pigtial goes to each switch ( the dimmer and the fan speed control switch ). the red wire would go to the light switch , and the black to the fan control switch so you have your switch loops.
at he canopy, remove the remote wire module, you'll be left with 3 wires coming from the fan
a blue lead for lights ( or black with a white stripe ), and a black lead for the fan motor
a ground
and a white
the white lead fromthe fan goes to the white ( neutral ) coming in from the INCOMING hot, ( remember the black INCOMING hot wire is tied to the white 4 wire cable going down to the switch ), the blue ( black white ) light lead wire goes to the red of the 4 wire cable, the black to the black from the 4 wire cable. grounds get all tied together
this should complete the set up
now set both chains pulls to high ( light and motor ) and you should be ready to go.
you need not drop the fan, though if it's a hugger install you might have to remove the blades, and drop the fan ( hang it by steel wire while you make changes ) and then re hang, test, and if all work well then install the blades back. huggers generally have no room to do changes, pole mounts do since you can always slide down the canopy cover for access.
#4
08-09-09, 10:48 PM
Alright, got around to taking the fan down today. Here's what I found:
Coming out of the fan are three wires: green, white, and black. They are connected as follows: fan green -> ground, fan white -> wall white, fan black -> wall red. The electricians ran a four wire cable up there, so the previously hot "black" wire that I saw in the switch panel wasn't connected to anything. The red wire in the switch panel was connected to the black wire coming out of the fan.
Now, I was reading an Amazon review of this exact fan, and a guy there has two switches connected to this fan exactly how I want to.. but I can't seem to figure out how.
Since my first post we have removed the light from the fan (we are recessing lights anyway) and now only want one switch to control the fan and it's speed. The remotes for this fan are complete junk and not something I wish to have. I really like the way this fan looks and how much air it moves, but these remotes have to go.
Any ideas?
Coming out of the fan are three wires: green, white, and black. They are connected as follows: fan green -> ground, fan white -> wall white, fan black -> wall red. The electricians ran a four wire cable up there, so the previously hot "black" wire that I saw in the switch panel wasn't connected to anything. The red wire in the switch panel was connected to the black wire coming out of the fan.
Now, I was reading an Amazon review of this exact fan, and a guy there has two switches connected to this fan exactly how I want to.. but I can't seem to figure out how.
Since my first post we have removed the light from the fan (we are recessing lights anyway) and now only want one switch to control the fan and it's speed. The remotes for this fan are complete junk and not something I wish to have. I really like the way this fan looks and how much air it moves, but these remotes have to go.
Any ideas?
#5
08-10-09, 05:57 AM
Look up in the ceiling box again. You should be able to find a black wire with a cap on it and no other wires attached. If so, you will have adequate wiring to accomplish what you want. Let us know so we can proceed.
#6
08-10-09, 04:19 PM
It's easier if I just post photos:
The red, black, white, and copper wires as shown in the following photo are part of the house wiring. The green wire is a ground for the fan (it came with the fan). The black wire in the photo wasn't and hasn't ever been connected to anything.
The following photo shows the remote receiver and internal circuitry for the fan itself. You are seeing the "bottom" of the fan.
Lastly, the following photo shows the wires coming out of the top of the fan. There is a green, black, and white wire only.
Since I cut the wires to remove the fan, you can see how the fan was previously wired.
Hopefully that clears things up.. Thanks again for your help.
The red, black, white, and copper wires as shown in the following photo are part of the house wiring. The green wire is a ground for the fan (it came with the fan). The black wire in the photo wasn't and hasn't ever been connected to anything.
The following photo shows the remote receiver and internal circuitry for the fan itself. You are seeing the "bottom" of the fan.
Lastly, the following photo shows the wires coming out of the top of the fan. There is a green, black, and white wire only.
Since I cut the wires to remove the fan, you can see how the fan was previously wired.
Hopefully that clears things up.. Thanks again for your help.
#7
08-10-09, 04:48 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Since I am only seeing the black and white wires it does not look like individual control of the fan and light is possible. It looks like the electricians provided a rough in that would allow for this but your fan was not made to be used without the remote.
Fans made for use without remotes have a black, a white and either a blue or a black with white tracer. The blue or black with tracer is for the light kit.
Could you post a link to the information that confirms how you want your fan wired without the remote?
I also got confused where you said you want 2 switches. Is one for the recessed or for the fan light?
If you only want the switch to work on the fan and are removing the light kit this should be able to be accomplished.
Fans made for use without remotes have a black, a white and either a blue or a black with white tracer. The blue or black with tracer is for the light kit.
Could you post a link to the information that confirms how you want your fan wired without the remote?
I also got confused where you said you want 2 switches. Is one for the recessed or for the fan light?
If you only want the switch to work on the fan and are removing the light kit this should be able to be accomplished.
#8
08-10-09, 07:34 PM
Since I am only seeing the black and white wires it does not look like individual control of the fan and light is possible. It looks like the electricians provided a rough in that would allow for this but your fan was not made to be used without the remote.
Fans made for use without remotes have a black, a white and either a blue or a black with white tracer. The blue or black with tracer is for the light kit.
Could you post a link to the information that confirms how you want your fan wired without the remote?
I also got confused where you said you want 2 switches. Is one for the recessed or for the fan light?
If you only want the switch to work on the fan and are removing the light kit this should be able to be accomplished.
Fans made for use without remotes have a black, a white and either a blue or a black with white tracer. The blue or black with tracer is for the light kit.
Could you post a link to the information that confirms how you want your fan wired without the remote?
I also got confused where you said you want 2 switches. Is one for the recessed or for the fan light?
If you only want the switch to work on the fan and are removing the light kit this should be able to be accomplished.
The two switches were going to be for the fan, but we have since decided to recess lights in the ceiling and remove the light on the fan..
Actually, all I really want to be able to do is flip a switch on the wall and have the fan come on "medium". If I could accomplish that, I'd be happy.
#9
08-10-09, 08:29 PM
Group Moderator
You electricians did not steer you wrong about your fan. It is designed to be used only with the remote. Not a good plan by Hunter IMO. They also wired it up for 99% of the fans out there. Yours is the odd ball.
That said I think we might be able to get it to work how you like, maybe even better, but this will surly void any warranty you have.
.
Looking at your picture it appears you have 6 wires going from the remote box down into the fan. There will be one pair going to the light. Open the light kit to find out which ones and write it down. (or just remember
) I'm going to bet black and white but who knows. The other three wires are going to be for each speed. High, med, low. The last wire will be the neutral.
What you would need to do is snip off the connector from the remote box thingy. Wire your neutrals to your ceiling white, wire your light wire hot to the ceiling red. Wire your fan high speed (whatever wire that is. Might take some trial and error) to the ceiling black. At your switch box you can then connect the wires that are nutted back to the switch or buy a fan speed control and now you have full control of the fan.
Here's the kicker. Looking at your picture, in the remote box, it looks like capacitors are in there. If they are the caps for the fan motor, everything I posted above will not work unless you get a cap that is the same rating.
That said I think we might be able to get it to work how you like, maybe even better, but this will surly void any warranty you have.
. Looking at your picture it appears you have 6 wires going from the remote box down into the fan. There will be one pair going to the light. Open the light kit to find out which ones and write it down. (or just remember
) I'm going to bet black and white but who knows. The other three wires are going to be for each speed. High, med, low. The last wire will be the neutral.What you would need to do is snip off the connector from the remote box thingy. Wire your neutrals to your ceiling white, wire your light wire hot to the ceiling red. Wire your fan high speed (whatever wire that is. Might take some trial and error) to the ceiling black. At your switch box you can then connect the wires that are nutted back to the switch or buy a fan speed control and now you have full control of the fan.
Here's the kicker. Looking at your picture, in the remote box, it looks like capacitors are in there. If they are the caps for the fan motor, everything I posted above will not work unless you get a cap that is the same rating.
