Need help with installing timer light switch


  #1  
Old 12-04-09, 06:48 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Need help with installing timer light switch

We have one light switch indoors that turns on and off 3 lights on the outside of our house. I want to replace that switch with a programmable one so that the lights will turn on/off by themselves at pre-set times.

I took out the current switch and noticed that it had 4 wires running to it. I have labeled them on the attached picture.
Wires #1 and #2 go into the switch itself, #3 is connected by a screw on the right side and #4 is connected on the left hand side.

Can someone please confirm that wire #1 and #2 would be the negatives, wire #3 would be the hot/positive wire, and wire #4 is the copper ground wire?

I wanted to make sure of this before I go in and connect my new porgrammable switch.

Thank you very much!




I am not sure if the embedded images work, so here are links to the switch pictures:
switch1 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
switch2 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
 
  #2  
Old 12-04-09, 07:39 AM
pcboss's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 13,935
Received 181 Upvotes on 159 Posts
OK, a correction, switches are not wired with positives and negatives. The switches make or break a connection between hot conductors.

What you are looking at is a hot feed, either #2 or #3, A hot feed continuing to another part of the circuit, again either #2 or #3. No. 1 should be going out to the lights as a switched hot. No. 4 is the equipment grounding conductor.

What wiring connections does your switch call for? Is a neutral required?
 
  #3  
Old 12-04-09, 08:17 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The timer switch has 2 wires - 1 for the hot connection and 1 for the neutral (negative?) connection.

I am not sure which wires I would connect from my current switch to the timer switch. The timer switch does not have a copper ground (#4 wire in my cuyrrent switch) , so I think I can elimate that.

So I have wires #1, #2, and #3 on my current light switch, and I need to know which ones goes to the hot and neutral on the new timer switch.

Thanks
 
  #4  
Old 12-04-09, 09:06 AM
pcboss's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 13,935
Received 181 Upvotes on 159 Posts
Could you post a link with the wiring diagram or the part number?
 
  #5  
Old 12-04-09, 09:35 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: bond county illinois
Posts: 158
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
i don't see a neutral wire in the mix at all. It looks like ,to me anyway, that wires 2,3 are the line in and # 1 is the switched "hot" that goes to your light. I think no. 3 is a jumper to make some other switch in that series hot.
 
  #6  
Old 12-04-09, 11:25 AM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The switch is the Aube by Honeywell TI032-3W-5/U 7-Day Programmable Timer Switch.
Here is the PDF of the installation instructions.

http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...00-032-001.pdf

It has wires #1, #2, and C, and I need to figure out which wires (#1,2,3,4) from my current wall switch need to go where.

Thanks again
 
  #7  
Old 12-04-09, 11:33 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 29,711
Upvotes: 0
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
Very Important From the Diagram PDF:
NOTE A:
The white wire is not the neutral wire but the wire going to the
load.
 
  #8  
Old 12-04-09, 01:24 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: bond county illinois
Posts: 158
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I would put wires 2 and 3 and the black wire on the new switch together and the no. 1 wire to the white wire on the new switch. I think because the 1 and2 wires are stuck in the back of the switch that those were the original and the no 3 on the screw is the jumper to another switch. You agree?
 
  #9  
Old 12-04-09, 01:28 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: bond county illinois
Posts: 158
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
And also the c wire would go in with the 2 and3 wires. I think.
 
  #10  
Old 12-04-09, 04:36 PM
pcboss's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 13,935
Received 181 Upvotes on 159 Posts
Originally Posted by ray2047 View Post
Very Important From the Diagram PDF:
NOTE A:

The white wire is not the neutral wire but the wire going to the load.


That quote in the instructions is technically wrong. This is shown in a switch loop usage. The white would be the feed from the light, not the switched hot going to the light.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: