Need help with installing timer light switch
#1
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Need help with installing timer light switch
We have one light switch indoors that turns on and off 3 lights on the outside of our house. I want to replace that switch with a programmable one so that the lights will turn on/off by themselves at pre-set times.
I took out the current switch and noticed that it had 4 wires running to it. I have labeled them on the attached picture.
Wires #1 and #2 go into the switch itself, #3 is connected by a screw on the right side and #4 is connected on the left hand side.
Can someone please confirm that wire #1 and #2 would be the negatives, wire #3 would be the hot/positive wire, and wire #4 is the copper ground wire?
I wanted to make sure of this before I go in and connect my new porgrammable switch.
Thank you very much!


I am not sure if the embedded images work, so here are links to the switch pictures:
switch1 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
switch2 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
I took out the current switch and noticed that it had 4 wires running to it. I have labeled them on the attached picture.
Wires #1 and #2 go into the switch itself, #3 is connected by a screw on the right side and #4 is connected on the left hand side.
Can someone please confirm that wire #1 and #2 would be the negatives, wire #3 would be the hot/positive wire, and wire #4 is the copper ground wire?
I wanted to make sure of this before I go in and connect my new porgrammable switch.
Thank you very much!
I am not sure if the embedded images work, so here are links to the switch pictures:
switch1 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
switch2 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
#2
OK, a correction, switches are not wired with positives and negatives. The switches make or break a connection between hot conductors.
What you are looking at is a hot feed, either #2 or #3, A hot feed continuing to another part of the circuit, again either #2 or #3. No. 1 should be going out to the lights as a switched hot. No. 4 is the equipment grounding conductor.
What wiring connections does your switch call for? Is a neutral required?
What you are looking at is a hot feed, either #2 or #3, A hot feed continuing to another part of the circuit, again either #2 or #3. No. 1 should be going out to the lights as a switched hot. No. 4 is the equipment grounding conductor.
What wiring connections does your switch call for? Is a neutral required?
#3
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The timer switch has 2 wires - 1 for the hot connection and 1 for the neutral (negative?) connection.
I am not sure which wires I would connect from my current switch to the timer switch. The timer switch does not have a copper ground (#4 wire in my cuyrrent switch) , so I think I can elimate that.
So I have wires #1, #2, and #3 on my current light switch, and I need to know which ones goes to the hot and neutral on the new timer switch.
Thanks
I am not sure which wires I would connect from my current switch to the timer switch. The timer switch does not have a copper ground (#4 wire in my cuyrrent switch) , so I think I can elimate that.
So I have wires #1, #2, and #3 on my current light switch, and I need to know which ones goes to the hot and neutral on the new timer switch.
Thanks
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i don't see a neutral wire in the mix at all. It looks like ,to me anyway, that wires 2,3 are the line in and # 1 is the switched "hot" that goes to your light. I think no. 3 is a jumper to make some other switch in that series hot.
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The switch is the Aube by Honeywell TI032-3W-5/U 7-Day Programmable Timer Switch.
Here is the PDF of the installation instructions.
http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...00-032-001.pdf
It has wires #1, #2, and C, and I need to figure out which wires (#1,2,3,4) from my current wall switch need to go where.
Thanks again
Here is the PDF of the installation instructions.
http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...00-032-001.pdf
It has wires #1, #2, and C, and I need to figure out which wires (#1,2,3,4) from my current wall switch need to go where.
Thanks again
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I would put wires 2 and 3 and the black wire on the new switch together and the no. 1 wire to the white wire on the new switch. I think because the 1 and2 wires are stuck in the back of the switch that those were the original and the no 3 on the screw is the jumper to another switch. You agree?
#10
NOTE A:
That quote in the instructions is technically wrong. This is shown in a switch loop usage. The white would be the feed from the light, not the switched hot going to the light.
The white wire is not the neutral wire but the wire going to the load.
That quote in the instructions is technically wrong. This is shown in a switch loop usage. The white would be the feed from the light, not the switched hot going to the light.