Outdoor lighting electrical issue - help

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Old 04-30-11, 02:31 PM
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Outdoor lighting electrical issue - help

So I bought these to replace existing lamps: Amazon.com: Royce Lighting RL2/1505-09 Twin Pack Outdoor Wall Lantern in Black Finish: Home Improvement

Quick background: Just bought the house, wanted to update. Automatic garage door opener. When I opened the door (not main door, regular entry swinging door) I would hear a click and the outside light and main automatic light would go on. I tool the left old light off, two (white) power touched and sparked. I obviously realized I didn't shut off the main power which is separate from the main house. I shut down the breakers. This side had two white and two black wires. The new kit also has a built in ground. I connected the one white (from the new unit) to both the white (from the garage existing wiring) and then the same thing with the black. I go to the other side, only one each (white and black) existing garage wiring. I wire them up (white to white / black to black). Turn power on, nothing. I hear the same clicking, but now the main light doesn't go on either, unless I hit the open or light button on the actual opener.

Today, I take them off, unscrew wire caps and disconnect. I hook the Fluke DMM and it is reading .566 - .667 Hz AC current. The breakers appear to be OK. Can anyone throw me some tips here? I know it's a long description, but I tried to be as accurate as possible.
 
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Old 04-30-11, 03:02 PM
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Ok, Your description is a little confusing so I will try to verify a few things.

First, is your meter reading volts and not Hz? Hz should be 60 in the US but this is not a normal thing to check on a meter.

Oddly I just worked on a job replacing some lights on a garage that were wired into the garage door opener. When the opener was kicked in the lights would come on. IIRC it was a Stanley. Never seen it before and seamed like a bad way to run the lights but maybe it was before motion lights were invented.

Does the opener work now? When the opener is activated check the first box and see if you have 120 volts there. If not, you might have to go to the opener and check there.
 
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Old 04-30-11, 03:04 PM
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Yeah sorry for the confusion. It was in volts not HZ. Ok, so you want me to hook the DMM back up and then open the garage with the opener? Correct?
 
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Old 04-30-11, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Breakthecycle2 View Post
Yeah sorry for the confusion. It was in volts not HZ. Ok, so you want me to hook the DMM back up and then open the garage with the opener? Correct?
Correct. Then take your reading at the box with four wires coming out of the wall. Read from hot to neutral (black to white) of the pair of the same cable/conduit. You should be getting 120 volts. Also look at the top of the opener to see if there is a cable or conduit coming out. Not including the power cord.
 
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Old 04-30-11, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Tolyn Ironhand View Post
Correct. Then take your reading at the box with four wires coming out of the wall. Read from hot to neutral (black to white) of the pair of the same cable/conduit. You should be getting 120 volts. Also look at the top of the opener to see if there is a cable or conduit coming out. Not including the power cord.
Will do that in the morning and let you know the outcome. thanks for your help so far.
 
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