Wire Shoplight to plug in

Newbie to the forums. I know alot about electrical, the basics, etc. But I am stumped on this.

I have an 8ft T8 fluorescent fixture that is mounted on a ceiling, to be plugged in to a regular ground level switched outlet about 15ft away.

I read online, stranded cord can't be used as permenant. TRUE? Well, chandeliers and many other things cords are stranded, so I am kinda not sure about that. I am kinda ignoring that rule right now.

I was going to wire romex to the light, and run it to the outlet, with a plug on the end. But thats against code too, which I can understand.

Cut the end of an extension cord off and wire it on. It would work beatifully especially for length, but thats against code.


My solution was to get one of those 8ft replacement cords for tools, but its not long enough. I really wanted something to wire up and plug right in.

I know they sell zip cord (lamp cord), that I could get the length I need and put a plug on it, but I need something grounded.

Could someone help? Recommend? It has to be from HomeDepot.

I need a grounded cord that I can customize length, wire to the shoplight, and put a grounded plug on to safely plug into a switched outlet.

What kind of wire should I use?

 

No electrician...but if it will be plugged in...thats probably not considered permanent even though it may be plugged in for years. Look at a garage door opener....

You will need to use the right sort of cable which you can buy by the foot at HD. You will also need the right kind of clamp at the fixture end.

There may be limits on length but I've seen plenty of garages and such that have a series of switched outlets on the ceiling and every light is plugged in with maybe a 2' cord, not hardwired.

 

Oh....and the Pro's should be around soon....Sundays are always slow...

 

16-3 SOJ cord should work but it probably violates manufacturers suggested installation and might not be approved by some inspectors. Why can't you hard wire it?

Zip cord usually does not have a ground and most fluorescent fixtures work best when grounded.

Above assumes inside of fixture is approved as a connection box. Some newer cheaper electronic fixtures may just have 3 leads coming out and may not have an approved space for connections.

 

Correct. Wiring that is part of fixtures etc come under a different set of rules.



Correct

Correct



Temporary usage for flex cords that are not part of appliances is limited to 90 days by the code definition of temporary.

Flex cord cannot be used as a substiute for the fixed premise wiring.

The correct option is to install a receptacle closer to the point of need using a recognized wiring method.

 

I cannot hardwire it as there is no circuits to tie into, and the panel is already overstuffed. This light is going to light an area that use to be lit with multiple floor lamps, and I would just like to be able to plug it in. It is meant to be hardwired, as it is a 4 lamp T8 striplight, but I have seen them converted to plug in, but in ways I would not dream of and not want to mention Thats why I am seeking some "pro" advice thats safe and usable.

I have no access(well, I do but not easily) to the attic to install a closer receptical. Hardwire is not an option.
The light will be switched from the receptical. Also I have 2 pullchains on there, to seperate the banks of light.

SOJ 16-3 cord with a grounded plug on there would work?

Picture below of plan.......

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You may be able to convert your switched receptacle to always on and run a new cable from the light to that receptacle. Do you have an unfinished attic above? How hard is the access? If not you can still do it with only minor Sheetrock repair or by using surface race such as Wiremold.

Yes but we try to give you the plans A and B before we discuss C. What is the distance from the end of the light to the wall with the receptacle? I really think a better option then SOJ is surface race. Once painted to match ceiling and wall less visually intrusive then SOJ.

 

I agree with Ray, surface mount raceway from an extension box would be the most compliant method.

Side note, under the new NEC the receptacle would be required to be GFI protected.

 

Well, I looked up wiremold/surface raceway, and it is over the budget for such a little thing once I add every part needed up, along with having to mount it, and spend extra for a GFCI.
Not to mention, I am lazy. But not with the saftey part, only the "looks" of the job. Everything is grounded, and wired correctly. Romex clamp on the end of the light also.

I got SJOOW cord (15ft cut to length) which was all I could find for 14/3 or 16/3 stranded copper wire. (They sold it $0.48 a foot)
250 ft. Black Reel 16/3 Portable Power SJOOW Cord-282-1203G1 at The Home Depot

And a grounded plug.
15-Amp Black Straight Blade Grounding Plug-R50-48648-00E at The Home Depot

It works perfectly. I really didn't care about the color. Black is fine. It is just hanging down (kinda clamped) to the wall. The attic is accesible, but it is really small and hard to move around in, with me having know clue where I am going. The "wire job" only costed about $15.