Convert 2 gang to single w/out having to replace the box.

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Old 10-14-11, 10:32 AM
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Convert 2 gang to single w/out having to replace the box.

I want to install a utility cabinet and need approx. 1 1/2" for the cabinet to fit flush; unfortunately, there happens to be a 4 plug outlet in the way. Thought I would check with member(s) before disassembling the kitchen; if I could convert the 2 gang to a single, using the same box, it would save me from having to tear out a section of the sheetrock, install a support for the 1 gang box, apply a patch, then re-texture and paint; although, not there's a cover plate to fit the application. Oh, the outlet will not be seen. Any input appreciated!!. Thank you in advance.----dave
 
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Old 10-14-11, 11:11 AM
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Just to be clear, you want to cover half of the two gang box leaving one receptacle?

That would sound fine to me as long as the box remains accessible. You could also take a bare hacksaw blade and cut the nails off the two gang box. Remove it and install a single gang remodel box. No sheetrock repair needed. Be sure to check wire count before do this though.
 
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Old 10-14-11, 11:42 AM
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Box

Sounds like he wants to change to a single gang box to gain space in the wall cavity.

I do not understand the part about the receptacle being out of sight.

Some older two gang metal boxes were made by removing the adjoining side plates and joining the two single boxes together to make a two-gang box. If this is what you have, changing will be easy, but gaining the necessary access to do the modification will be difficult. Just my 2 cents.
 
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Old 10-14-11, 12:04 PM
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If the utility cabinet will be mounted to the wall I believe that covering half of it up would be a code violation. Junction boxes need to be accessible without removing any part of the building finish.
 
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Old 10-14-11, 12:39 PM
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it would save me from having to tear out a section of the sheetrock, install a support for the 1 gang box,
That isn't how old work boxes are installed. They are inserted in an opening the size of the box and holding ears tightened.



Or use Madison clips.

 
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Old 10-14-11, 12:46 PM
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In process of remodeling the kitchen on an older cabin. This is a learn as I go project and now regret I did not plan ahead, I thought I could use the existing electrical outlets and now realize there is a number of factors I did not take into consideration when I ordered the cabinets. As shown in the pic's, in order to get the minimum clearance between the stove and the cabinet in the pic it has to rest up against the outlet. The cabinet I am referring to, sorry I misspoke, is for the sink and will rest against the cabinet in the picture covering the outlet. It does appear the cabinet can butt up to the other cabinet and have enough clearance to use the outlet for the disposal. Hopefully the pic's make it a little clearer, my explanation sucks!!!. Really appreciate the input!!.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...MG_0002-10.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0001-7.jpg
 
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Old 10-14-11, 01:57 PM
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If the picture shows where the cabinet will sit, then you could just cut part of the plate off. That, or I suggest changing out the box to a single gang remodel, as I mentioned before, and as Ray kindly put up a picture. I suggest the blue one in a 20 or 22 Cubic Inch version
 
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Old 10-14-11, 02:05 PM
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Why are there two GFCI's sitting beside one another. Are there two circuits? Are there any other receptacles fed by these GFCI's? I agree with cutting with a hacksaw on the left side of the box through the nails holding it in, removing it all, installaing a blue old work box, bring all your wiring into the box, capping off the wires to the right GFCI, and reinstalling the left GFCI.
 
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Old 10-14-11, 02:51 PM
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So you are saying the cabinet is not in the final position but need to move another inch and a half to the left? I think you picture may confuse some if that is the case. How about a picture with the cabinet where it needs to be.
 
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Old 10-14-11, 08:23 PM
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The cabinet in the pic should be slightly shifted to the left about 1/4 to 1/2 " . I may have been able to leave the cabinet where it is but the sink cabinet will butt up against it and covers a portion of the rightside outlet, which is currently on a switch. Since the receptacle need to be shifted to the left, at least 1 1/2 " my plan is to remove the 2 gang box and take a section of 2X4 and use it as a spacer using screws to secure it to the existing stud. Then mount a single box, I thought adjustable since the mounting bracket can be secure to the face of the stud/spacer. I would then replace the remaining GFI, since there is already another in the circuit and wire a standard outlet where 1 plug is hot and the other operates off the existing switch. Seems this would leave an opening that is now partically filled with the spacer/stud which would provide a backing for the patch, tape and compound. I have not ruled out the madison clip or gangcable box but not sure 'how to' or its application, borrowed friends wiring home wiring book and need to do some homework. Again I appreciate the suggestions and input, thank you!!! dave


Originally Posted by ray2047 View Post
So you are saying the cabinet is not in the final position but need to move another inch and a half to the left? I think you picture may confuse some if that is the case. How about a picture with the cabinet where it needs to be.
 

Last edited by lightspeed; 10-14-11 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 10-15-11, 04:56 AM
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I don't know if the cables will be long enough but will throw this out to you. How about removing the old box entirely and bring the cables into the back of a surface box on the back of the cabinet? You could raise or lower to get more cable into the cabinet.
 
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Old 10-15-11, 10:54 PM
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The strange looking box I have seen at the hardware store and never inquired what they were used for has now come to light, it is called a 'cut'in' box. It did take some time but not as bad as it could have been were it not for everyone's input. Fortunuately the 2 gang box was adjustable so I unscrewed it out of the wall and left the bracket. Installed a cut-in box; oh yea, life is good. I then made a patch using a heavy duty stir paddle I had onhand and cut it about 2 1/2" longer than the opening. I then used drywall screws to secure it to the backside of the wall, cut a drywall patch to fit, then finished with some drywall tape and compound. Just installed the base cabinet sink and disposal, the kitchen is now functional. Again, thanks you for all the great information.
 
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Old 10-16-11, 02:54 AM
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Glad we could help. Good work. Thanks for letting us know.
 
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