Non IC rated fixtures with insulation
#1
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Non IC rated fixtures with insulation
I am insulating my attic, and have found that my bathroom directly bellow the attic has recessed lighting in a non IC rated fixture. The fixture is surrounded by a metal box that is 3" away from the fixture. The fixture is 12v, and I am planning on using LED 12v lights to reduce the heat, among other reasons.
Do I need to change the fixture, or is the box that surrounds it good enough to protect it from the insulation?
Thank you very much,
Fed
Do I need to change the fixture, or is the box that surrounds it good enough to protect it from the insulation?
Thank you very much,
Fed
#2
Non-Ic fixtures just need the insulation to remain 3" away from the housings.
With that said I would change to IC rated housings to cut your energy bills from heat loss and gain through the fixture.
With that said I would change to IC rated housings to cut your energy bills from heat loss and gain through the fixture.
#4
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I think it's up to you if you can do it or not. It's only a couple of wires and basic hand tools.
Make sure you turn off the power at the breaker and double and tripple check at the fixture to be sure the power is off before you do any work.
I'd suggest using an air tight incontact rated fixture - they are sometimes called ICAT fixtures. Any big box store sells them.
By the way - good thinking switching to LED.
Make sure you turn off the power at the breaker and double and tripple check at the fixture to be sure the power is off before you do any work.
I'd suggest using an air tight incontact rated fixture - they are sometimes called ICAT fixtures. Any big box store sells them.
By the way - good thinking switching to LED.
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are you going to put in LED 12v lamps? as i will assume that the fixture is a mr-16 based, taking in 120v and with a magnetic transformer stepping it down to 12v for the lamp ( mr-16 bi pin ),
if you are going switch the housing, then you might as well get a LED based one or a one that retro fits inside a line voltage ( 120 volts ) downlight, since the housing is relatively cheap and the LED driver easy to replace / upgrade over the years. I re did my bathrooms in 4" LED, IC AT rated housings, with the LED / driver being one unit that has the modular connector to the housing, making the housing Title 24 complaint ( requires in Ca ). LEDs that are just lamps that fit a given socket do not last as long as those that are true retro fits or where the driver is built into the fixture itself.
if you are going switch the housing, then you might as well get a LED based one or a one that retro fits inside a line voltage ( 120 volts ) downlight, since the housing is relatively cheap and the LED driver easy to replace / upgrade over the years. I re did my bathrooms in 4" LED, IC AT rated housings, with the LED / driver being one unit that has the modular connector to the housing, making the housing Title 24 complaint ( requires in Ca ). LEDs that are just lamps that fit a given socket do not last as long as those that are true retro fits or where the driver is built into the fixture itself.