"Simple" ceiling fan replacement
#1
05-19-12, 10:13 AM
Join Date: Feb 2006
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"Simple" ceiling fan replacement
Famous last words.. OK here we go:
FIRST the existing ceiling fan: no light, two way switch. Via the pull chain 3 speed/off settings if you kept the fan in ON position with the pull chain you could always turn the fan ON or OFF with just the wall switch.
ENTER the new Hunter fan, no light, a "1 hour project" (similar to Gilligan's Island's 3 Hour Tour!!!)
I hook up new fan same way old fan was connected.
WH to WH
GR to GR
BK to BK
BKwith wht stripe from fan to RD in ceiling box
(There is also another 2 wire coming in to, then out of the ceiling box, each wire twisted together, that I didn't touch, blk to blk & wht to wht, grd to grd)
Fan comes on fine, operates via pull chain, but wall switch doesn't affect fan ON or OFF now.
Then the weather started getting rough*****^^^^
Both BK and RD out of ceiling box are hot regardless of switch position. (UPDATE I DETERMINED THEY WERE HOT BY A TOUCH VOLTAGE SENSOR DEVICE THAT BEEPS, I JUST PUT A VOLT METER ON THE RD AND IT SHOWS 25 V OR SO AND THE BK AS YOU WOULD EXPECT 120V. ) I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT ONE OF THEM WOULD HAVE BEEN THE HOT SWITCH LEG. Didn't have a reason to check prior to replacement so don't know about previous status, and I cut off breaker to replace.
Pulled faceplate off and both BK and RD going into wall switch are hot unless I switch breaker off. I also tested switches for working and swapped this switch with known working one. No changes.
Test for continuity at ceiling box between BK and RD with breaker off, there is none when wall switch off, but HAVE continuity when wall switch is on.
Breaker back on, in wall switch box the bk going into the top of the switch and the rd going into bottom of switch are HOT coming INTO SWITCH.
WHAT AM I MISSING HERE??? I DIDN'T CHANGE ANYTHING IN THE WIRING?
HOW ARE BOTH THE RD & BK IN THE WALL BOX STAYING HOT AS ARE THE RD AND BK IN THE CEILING BOX BUT CONTINUITY CHECK SHOWS THE SWITCH WORKING? THERE IS SOMETHING BASIC I AM MISSING HERE.
MAYBE SINCE THE RD IS SWITCHED HOT DETERMINED BY THE CONTINUITY TEST I SHOULD CAP OFF THE BLACK FROM CEILING BOX AND ATTACH FAN BK AND BK/WH TO RD FROM BOX. THOUGHTS?
THANKS!!!!
FIRST the existing ceiling fan: no light, two way switch. Via the pull chain 3 speed/off settings if you kept the fan in ON position with the pull chain you could always turn the fan ON or OFF with just the wall switch.
ENTER the new Hunter fan, no light, a "1 hour project" (similar to Gilligan's Island's 3 Hour Tour!!!)
I hook up new fan same way old fan was connected.
WH to WH
GR to GR
BK to BK
BKwith wht stripe from fan to RD in ceiling box
(There is also another 2 wire coming in to, then out of the ceiling box, each wire twisted together, that I didn't touch, blk to blk & wht to wht, grd to grd)
Fan comes on fine, operates via pull chain, but wall switch doesn't affect fan ON or OFF now.
Then the weather started getting rough*****^^^^
Both BK and RD out of ceiling box are hot regardless of switch position. (UPDATE I DETERMINED THEY WERE HOT BY A TOUCH VOLTAGE SENSOR DEVICE THAT BEEPS, I JUST PUT A VOLT METER ON THE RD AND IT SHOWS 25 V OR SO AND THE BK AS YOU WOULD EXPECT 120V. ) I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT ONE OF THEM WOULD HAVE BEEN THE HOT SWITCH LEG. Didn't have a reason to check prior to replacement so don't know about previous status, and I cut off breaker to replace.
Pulled faceplate off and both BK and RD going into wall switch are hot unless I switch breaker off. I also tested switches for working and swapped this switch with known working one. No changes.
Test for continuity at ceiling box between BK and RD with breaker off, there is none when wall switch off, but HAVE continuity when wall switch is on.
Breaker back on, in wall switch box the bk going into the top of the switch and the rd going into bottom of switch are HOT coming INTO SWITCH.
WHAT AM I MISSING HERE??? I DIDN'T CHANGE ANYTHING IN THE WIRING?
HOW ARE BOTH THE RD & BK IN THE WALL BOX STAYING HOT AS ARE THE RD AND BK IN THE CEILING BOX BUT CONTINUITY CHECK SHOWS THE SWITCH WORKING? THERE IS SOMETHING BASIC I AM MISSING HERE.
MAYBE SINCE THE RD IS SWITCHED HOT DETERMINED BY THE CONTINUITY TEST I SHOULD CAP OFF THE BLACK FROM CEILING BOX AND ATTACH FAN BK AND BK/WH TO RD FROM BOX. THOUGHTS?
THANKS!!!!
Last edited by michaelwil; 05-19-12 at 10:34 AM.
#2
05-19-12, 10:53 AM
Group Moderator
The black with the stripe in most cases is to the light kit. You do not have a light kit, but you can leave it there if your want.
Red is your switchleg. Move your black to the fan to the red in the ceiling box. It is controlled by the switch.
Non-contact voltage testers are good for checking if there is voltage in a box or wire but they are not good for this kind of trouble shooting. They tend to give false positives, as you have found out.
Red is your switchleg. Move your black to the fan to the red in the ceiling box. It is controlled by the switch.
Non-contact voltage testers are good for checking if there is voltage in a box or wire but they are not good for this kind of trouble shooting. They tend to give false positives, as you have found out.
#3
05-19-12, 10:56 AM
(There is also another 2 wire coming in to, then out of the ceiling box, each wire twisted together,
If the two wires in the ceiling box connected are white then the fan white goes to them.
If there is only one 3-conductor cable in the switch box and two 2-conductor cables in addition to the 3-conductor cable at the ceiling box the white* of the three conductor cable is connected to the two blacks of the 2-conductor cables.
Black of 3-conductor at ceiling to fan black.
Red of 3-conductor at ceiling to fan blue.
Grounds connected in usual manner.
If any of the above does not match your situation stop and post back for different instructions.
*A white used as a hot needs to be remarked black or red or any color but whiteor green or gray. Easiest is a band of black tape on both ends or recolor with felt tip marker.
#4
05-19-12, 08:50 PM
If there is only one 3-conductor cable in the switch box and two 2-conductor cables in addition to the 3-conductor cable at the ceiling box the white* of the three conductor cable is connected to the two blacks of the 2-conductor cables.
BK and RD going into wall switch,
In order for us to help you troubleshoot this, we need to see what you're seeing. To help us do that, please tell us:
How many cables come into the ceiling box;
How many wires are in each of those cables, by color; and
What is each of those wires connected to, if anything.
How many cables come into the switch box;
How many wires are in each of those cables, by color; and
What is each of those wires connected to, if anything.
If we have not already said so, some pictures might help. See How To Include Pictures. We need to be able to see into each box well enough to see the cables and wires inside. Thanks.
