Modifying a ceiling fan downrod
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Modifying a ceiling fan downrod
I have a ceiling fan that is downrod mount only. The fan only attaches via a downrod and does not have a flushmount option, but I plan to shorten the downrod to make it essentially as if it does not exist. Is there anything wrong with modifying it to shorten the length assuming I properly redrill the hole so that the pin goes back in to hold the downrod in the hemisphere that the fan hangs from? I don't know the exact term so if I need to describe that better let me know. I'm assuming it is not an issue since you can always buy a longer downrod, but wanted to double check.
Also, I have actually started the modification and made the poor tool choice of a reciprocating saw. This resulted in the blade walking a little bit before starting to cut and, because of my fixturing choice, an overall uneven cut. Would this uneven cut and slight shaving of the metal because of the walking be an issue? A picture of the cut piece and the worst metal shaving is below. The other side has some shaving as well, but not as bad.
Also, I have actually started the modification and made the poor tool choice of a reciprocating saw. This resulted in the blade walking a little bit before starting to cut and, because of my fixturing choice, an overall uneven cut. Would this uneven cut and slight shaving of the metal because of the walking be an issue? A picture of the cut piece and the worst metal shaving is below. The other side has some shaving as well, but not as bad.
#2
It shouldn't make any difference as long as you deburr it and make sure the hole for the pin is properly sized and positioned.
It's just me...but I'd clean up the end with a grinder and mill file to make it perfectly flat.
It's just me...but I'd clean up the end with a grinder and mill file to make it perfectly flat.
#5
I have a ceiling fan that... does not have a flushmount option, but I plan to shorten the downrod to make it essentially as if it does not exist.
If you cannot find a shorter downrod for your fan and want to continue modifying the one you have, you will need to make the new upper end exactly match the part you cut off. For most modern fans that can require as many as four holes:
- the large pair for the hanger bolt,
- a threaded hole for a screw to secure the downrod to the hanger ball, and
- a threaded hole for the ground screw which attaches the ground wire for the downrod and motor housing.
If you need more information, just post back.
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It's an allen+roth 32" Bronze Ceiling Fan.
I know it will make the fan less effective, but it is already being installed in a less than ideal environment. I have much less clearance on the sides than what is specified. This fan is already pretty small, but my room design is such that there is pretty much no size fan that could achieve the specified wall to blade tip spacing. So starting off at that already less than ideal situation, my thinking was it was more important to trade off keeping the blades at or above the specified height over the fan efficiency. I also wanted more clearance for the light kit and it was only shortening it a couple inches (it was ~4 inches to start).
All that being said, I have now realized that I should have thought this through and/or posted first. The point about there being no room to actually get my hands in there to make connections was something I didn't think of and is something that will make this entire thing not possible. Gonna have to make a call to the manufacturer and get a new downrod...
I know it will make the fan less effective, but it is already being installed in a less than ideal environment. I have much less clearance on the sides than what is specified. This fan is already pretty small, but my room design is such that there is pretty much no size fan that could achieve the specified wall to blade tip spacing. So starting off at that already less than ideal situation, my thinking was it was more important to trade off keeping the blades at or above the specified height over the fan efficiency. I also wanted more clearance for the light kit and it was only shortening it a couple inches (it was ~4 inches to start).
All that being said, I have now realized that I should have thought this through and/or posted first. The point about there being no room to actually get my hands in there to make connections was something I didn't think of and is something that will make this entire thing not possible. Gonna have to make a call to the manufacturer and get a new downrod...