How to install F32T8 4' fluorescent lights


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Old 01-03-13, 01:42 PM
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How to install F32T8 4' fluorescent lights

I'm hoping to eluminate our indoor horse arena with 3 rows of 20 lights. I would like each row to have its own switch. The arena is 70' wide by 150' long with 16' ceiling (post and beam not fully enclosed). I have 60 F32T8 4' fluorescent lights that I would like to use. My first question is can I use 14/2 wire? My second question is how many can I daisy chain together? How many amps would each breaker have to be, and how many breakers would I need? I also want to put in some exterior flood lights and plugs just in case. Maybe 10 flood lights and 4 exterior plugs, 1 at each corner. Thanks in advance for all your input!
 
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Old 01-03-13, 02:34 PM
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Do you already have a subpanel at the arena?
 
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Old 01-03-13, 04:20 PM
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There is no power to the arena yet.
 
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Old 01-03-13, 04:32 PM
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What other loads besides the lights? What wattage and type flood lights? Do you have the full amp specs for the fluorescent lights? What is the distance to the service panel you are going to tap into or are you going to use a separate service?
 
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Old 01-03-13, 06:20 PM
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With 14-2 RX your going to be using a ton of wire and on some long wire runs.

Are these two or four tube fixtures ?

You're looking at roughly 60 watts@120volts per two tube fixture.
or 1200 watts per row of lights.
If these are electronic ballasts.....you might be able to run them on 240 volts.

Keep the weather in mind.....these fixtures can be iffy starting in very cold.
 
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Old 01-03-13, 06:47 PM
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Electronic ballasts will run OK down to zero degrees Fahrenheit. They might start a little dim at that them but I am not sure you want to be out there at those temps.

Your lights could run fine using 14/2 cable if you used a separate 15 amp circuit per row. This would also work fine with your plan for each row on it own switch.

For the flood lights you will need to add up the watts of the lights you plan to use. A 15 amp circuit can handle 12 amp continuous (3 hours or more) and a 20 amp circuit (#12 wire) can handle 16 amps.

I would put the receptacles (outlets) on their own circuit.

For hanging the lights, I suggest either installing some 2x broads to run the lights on along the bottom of the trusses, and attaching the lights to that. Then run 1/2" EMT between the light to space them out along the 150'. Use THHN to wire between each fixture.

You could also put the boards along the top of the bottom cord of the trusses, and then the lights will be up between the trusses. This would be a little tougher to wire as you would need to run cable, and the cable will need to jump over each truss.

Other option is to hang then using jack chain, and space them out using EMT as mentioned above.
 
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Old 01-04-13, 12:13 PM
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Other than 4 plugs, fluorescents, and flood lights there is no other load. I havent purchased the flood lights yet but will need 4 of them to be powerful enough to provide light outwards of 150' . I'm unsure of what you mean by full amp specs? The lights are 2 4' bulbs at 32 watts each at 120v. I will be running a new service for this building andthe panel will be located in the arena. Thank you
 
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Old 01-04-13, 12:16 PM
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These are 2 tube units. They are electronic ballasts. Our weather rarely drops below zero. Thank you
 
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Old 01-04-13, 12:33 PM
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We dont usually drop below zero.
So are you suggesting I run 14/2 from panel to start of each row, then THHN from light to light to light etc? Or is it fine to use 14/2 from light to light to light etc?
I havent purchased flood lights yet so Ill have to check the watts. Any suggestions for lights that can shine 150' out (for the outdoor arena and horse paddocks). The things we do for our wives, eh?
Ok, I will put the receptacles on their own circuit.
What size panel will this require? How many amp service should I get?
Is the EMT necessary or can I jump the 14/2 from light to light?
Thank you very much!
 
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Old 01-04-13, 12:38 PM
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14-2 is fine from light to light.
As far as floodlights.......are these for short term use. You can use standard floodlight bulbs in dual fixtures. 500 watt quart fixtures are good for a lot of lighting.
You can also upgrade to a discharge lamp depending how much light and how long you want to keep them on. A 400 watt metal halide fixture gives a nice light but the fixture is a little costly.


RAB QF500 - 500 Watt - Quartz Halogen Flood Fixture - 120 Volt

http://1000bulbs.com/product/59422/P...FYqZ4Aod-RsALw
 
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Old 01-04-13, 12:42 PM
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You haven't said if this is going to be a separate service or a subpanel on an existing service. If a subpanel we will need to know the distance to the existing service.
 
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Old 01-04-13, 01:50 PM
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Ok 14/2 from light to light is fine. Sounds good.
These lights should be on a maximum of 4 hours per day in the winter and rarely in the other seasons but possibly2 hours. For flood lights and fluorescents that is.
Maybe standard flood 500w is good enough?
Thank you
 
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Old 01-04-13, 01:53 PM
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It will be a new service from the provincial hydro pole which is located on an easement on my property approx 14' from the arena.
Thank you
 
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Old 01-04-13, 05:34 PM
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I've seen ballasts that can be connected to either 120V or 277V, but not to 240V. Both 120 and 277 are leg-to-neutral potentials; 240 is single-phase power (no neutral). Long discussion short, let's just assume you'll have to supply the lights with 120V power.

In addition, I've always calculated two-tube 4' 32W T-8 fixtures at 80W per fixture. I believe that's the actual ballast load; read the specs on the ballast to find out. If so, a row of 20 of these fixtures will draw a total of 1600 watts, or 13.33 amps. It would be safer to wire each row with 12 AWG conductors on 20A circuit. Cable or conduit is your choice.

If you install three rows of 20 fixtures and hang them end-to-end, you will have fixtures that are less than 4' apart along each row, with rows that might be 20' apart. Five rows, with 12 fixtures in each row, would provide more even light coverage. You could still power and switch them as three groups of 20 fixtures, with each switch powering whatever set of fixtures you'd like.

I would hang the lights on jack chain to be about 12' above the arena floor, and I would definitely use fixtures with a full reflector and, possibly, a lamp shield.

You could power up to three 500W floods on one 20A circuit, and up to four 400W fixtures.

The receptacles could possibly all be on the same 20W circuit. They all need to be GFCI protected and have in-use (bubble) covers. Four standard 15A duplex receptacles wired on pigtails with 12 AWG conductors and protected by a single 20A GFCI breaker in the panel should take care of those.

I would install a 100 amp service to power everything.
 
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Old 01-18-13, 05:40 PM
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Wow, thats great advice. Thanks !
If I set up 5 rows of 12 should I stagger them or offset the rows on either side so the lights are filling the gaps?
I dont have reflectors...can I add them to my wrap lights?
I will check the max height that the horses will needand try to lower them with jack chain.
I can buy 12/2 wire no problem.
 
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Old 01-18-13, 10:16 PM
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If I set up 5 rows of 12 should I stagger them or offset the rows on either side so the lights are filling the gaps?
Your call. You'll have to study the throw, or coverage, diagram that should be in the instructions and compare that to your conditions and desired outcome.
I dont have reflectors...can I add them to my wrap lights?
If the manufacturer makes them for that fixture, yes.
 
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Old 01-20-13, 11:23 AM
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Thank you I will draw it out and see how the coverage will be.

Also, will contact light co to see if I can add reflectors.
 
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Old 01-20-13, 01:25 PM
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Sounds good. If you don't yet have the fixtures and their specification sheets, you may be able to find the coverage diagrams online. Or, when you talk to the manufacturer, they may be able to provide you with them.
 
 

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