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Splice wiring from single light so I can run it to 2 can lights- HELP and Aloha

Splice wiring from single light so I can run it to 2 can lights- HELP and Aloha

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  #1  
Old 03-26-13, 03:03 PM
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Splice wiring from single light so I can run it to 2 can lights- HELP and Aloha

I have a single light fixture above mirror in bathroom. I removed the lighting fixture. I have drilled 2 - 5 inch holes above mirror (within 3 ft. of original light wiring). Can I splice the single wiring so I can run it to both can lights?

Mahalos

Konatime
 
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  #2  
Old 03-26-13, 03:29 PM
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You would connect to the same two wires the light is connected to following the color code. That cable you use must be at least #12 for a 20 amp breaker or #14 for a 15 amp breaker. Best practice if the existing wiring is ungrounded it can't be extended.
 
  #3  
Old 03-26-13, 03:44 PM
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Aloha! Welcome to the forums!

Can I splice the single wiring so I can run it to both can lights?
If you make the splice in a covered, accessible electrical box, yes. I would run to one can and continue to the next.
 
  #4  
Old 03-26-13, 05:08 PM
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thx
would u happen to know of a video that shows the process?
 
  #5  
Old 03-26-13, 05:57 PM
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This is very basic. What is it you are unsure of?
 
  #6  
Old 03-27-13, 10:52 AM
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ray2047,
I just want to make sure that it is safe and done properly. I start with the Romex that is left after I remove the mounted light above my mirror. inside the Romex i have 3 wires- hot, neutral, and ground. From here I need to extend these 3 wires about 16 inches up the wall, through a 2x4 and another 10 inches out from corner of ceiling to where the 2- 5inch can light holes are. Now I need 2 sets of the original 3 wires , 1 for each can light. What is the best way and safest way to splice the original 3 wires so they now turn into 2 sets of wires- 1 for each of the 2 can lights?

thanks for your time....
 
  #7  
Old 03-27-13, 10:58 AM
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If you are asking for a video, my recommendation would be to pick up the book Wiring Simplified to get started on your electrical education. Available online and at most home centers.
 
  #8  
Old 03-27-13, 11:06 AM
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We wouldn't tell you to do it if it wasn't safe.
 
  #9  
Old 03-27-13, 12:33 PM
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ray2047,
thx for ur reply.
specifically, can I twist the 2 hot-wires from the 2 can lights to the original hotwire connected to the switch, twist the 2 neutral wires from the 2 can lights to the original neutral wire connected to the switch, and then I would ground all the wires separately or together? Running 2 can lights off of one switch is not too much draw for 1 switch? I realize my questions seem simple to most but I am eager to learn and I am isolated from quickly hiring an electrician.

thanks

konatime
 
  #10  
Old 03-27-13, 12:44 PM
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can I twist the 2 hot-wires from the 2 can lights to the original hot wire connected to the switch
Easier because of space in the box above the sink to connect the hot of one can light to the hot from the switch. Then the hot of the second can is hooked to the hot of the first can along with the hot from the vanity light. This last connection made at the first can.

Neutrals are connected in the same way.

All grounds are connected together and pigtailed to the box if the box is metal.

Give me and hour or so and I will draw you a diagram but since I don't know what you have it may be a bit different. That's why videos aren't a very good way to learn. There are many ways to do the same thing.
 
  #11  
Old 03-27-13, 01:12 PM
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my diagram

ray2047

her is a quick sketch of my situation

thx

[ATTACH=CONFIG]10721[/ATTACH]
 
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  #12  
Old 03-27-13, 01:34 PM
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And here is mine: Note mine goes to the existing light. Yours seems to go to a switch. Did you want the cans on a separate switch? I don't remember reading that you wanted that. If so verify power comes in at the switch not the light. I assumed so in my diagram for simplicity but it could be the other way. Post is getting long. I may have forgotten something you wrote.

 

Last edited by ray2047; 03-27-13 at 09:29 PM.
  #13  
Old 03-27-13, 04:11 PM
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ray2047,
so kind of u to take the time-thank you.
I have a double switch on the wall.
Switch #1 turns on an existing can light in the middle of the bathroom.
Switch # 2 turns on the Vanity light above the mirror that my wife is firmly insisting i replace with 2 can lights. So, when I disconnect the vanity light and toss it, the remaining wiring that is above the mirror should be extended to continue up the wall another foot, make a 90 degree turn at the ceiling and in 6- 8 inches to can light #1. How do I get the wiring from can light #1 to #2? In your diagram, inside the box "can light #1", can u give me a color breakdown. red =hotwire, yellow=neutral, white line/ black line? Is this some sort of electrical box where I do the splice or add an additional set of wires to get to can light #2? I am assuming it is ok the run 2 can lights off of 1 switch. I do apologize for the wordiness, I just feel I need to be thorough so I clearly understand.
 
  #14  
Old 03-27-13, 04:41 PM
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Switch # 2 turns on the Vanity light above the mirror that my wife is firmly insisting i replace with 2 can lights. So, when I disconnect the vanity light and toss it, the remaining wiring that is above the mirror should be extended to continue up the wall another foot, make a 90 degree turn at the ceiling and in 6- 8 inches to can light #1.
This is very different from what you said and harder to do. Any splices must be in a junction box and that junction box must remain accessible. If you want to get rid of the vanity light and it's junction box you are probably going to have to abandon the existing cable and run new cable.

First thing we need to know is if power comes in at the switch box. Do you have a bundle of two or more white wires tied to each other and only to each other in the switch box?

Second thing we need to know is if you have an unfinished attic above. If not running cable may be difficult.
 
  #15  
Old 03-27-13, 08:49 PM
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I just feel I need to be thorough so I clearly understand.
Well, explaining exactly what you have and what you want to wind up with helps a lot!

Rays sketch is exactly what you need to do, with one minor difference. When you remove the existing light, you need to have the wire to it end in an electrical box. That is where you splice the new wires to the existing ones. You can splice two lengths and run one to each light. or run to one light and then across to the other. Usually easier to do that but it really doesn't matter.

What does matter is that the box where the old fixture is removed must be both closed and accessible when you're finished. That means that it must have a blank cover on it and that that cover must be visible when you walk into the room. The means of removing the cover must also be visible.

If that doesn't suit you or your #1 customer, you can pull a new cable from switch #2 to the first can and abandon the existing wiring.
 
  #16  
Old 03-27-13, 09:40 PM
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Here is one type of blank cover you can use over the box:

 
  #17  
Old 03-27-13, 11:08 PM
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Thank you both so very much for taking the time to help me, sincerely.
I am feeling at this pt i need to find an electrician. I will watch him and learn.
 
  #18  
Old 03-28-13, 04:37 AM
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Sorry we couldn't help more but I'm not sure what an electrician can do we haven't explained to you. The job is pretty simple. Why do you feel you need an electrician? Maybe we can explain better.
 
  #19  
Old 03-28-13, 12:58 PM
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I feel silly asking, I guess I just dont understand language of the electrician. I would rather not hire an electrician because it will take a long while to find a competent 1 in part of Big Island I am in.
power goes from electrical box in garage to light switch on wall. From there, 1 white wire housing goes from 1st light switch button on wall to single (functioning) can light in center of ceiling, and other white wire housing goes from light switch on wall to single hole above mirror where strip light is. Why cant I remove strip light and toss it and splice it right there off this single wire housing so that when I run up wall to ceiling and over to can lights, I will have 2 sets of wires, 1 going to each can light? If I can do this, would u mind spelling out in silly easy terms, exactly what steps to take? I dont understand Nashkat1's explanation of needing to " That means that it must have a blank cover on it and that that cover must be visible when you walk into the room. The means of removing the cover must also be visible." I was planning to close up the small hole with drywall above mirror where old strip light was mounted and paint it....

thanks you 2

Konatime
 
  #20  
Old 03-28-13, 01:48 PM
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1 white wire housing goes
That is is called a cable.

Why cant I remove strip light and toss it and splice it right there off this single wire housing so that when I run up wall to ceiling and over to can lights, I will have 2 sets of wires, 1 going to each can light?
You can. That is basically what my diagram shows except I ran the second can off the first. I will be glad to redo my diagram to show it that way.

I was planning to close up the small hole with drywall above mirror where old strip light was mounted and paint it....
And that is the problem. You can't remove the junction box. It must remain. You can replace the light with a blank cover (sse post #16) and paint the cover to match the wall.

If there is an accessible unfinished attic above there is a third way that may work but I haven't mentioned that to avoid confusion. Simplest is as you suggest come off the light junction box but the box can not be removed.

 

Last edited by ray2047; 03-28-13 at 02:16 PM.
  #21  
Old 03-28-13, 02:16 PM
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You can't remove the junction box. It must remain.
If there isn't a junction box in the wall behind where the strip light was you will have to install one there to make the splices in if you want to extend the cable that went to the strip light. Why? Because electrical splices are only allowed inside approved, closed electrical boxes. It's a fire prevention, life safety requirement.

There are other ways to do this, as Ray mentioned, if you'd prefer not to have an accessible box remain visible above the mirror.
 
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