Wiring a switch


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Old 04-02-13, 07:14 PM
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Wiring a switch

Can I tap into a wire that is going into an outlet and add a light on a switch. And still have constant power to the outlet? Just trying to learn electric work better.

Basically I have the panels off and can see the wires feeding the outlets in the wall can I tap into the wire in between outlets and a light on a switch and still have power to the outlets. Or will the power be stopped at the switch?

I know I have lights and outlets on the same circuit and the outlets have constant power and the lights work off wall switches. How is the wired? Thanks
 
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Old 04-02-13, 07:24 PM
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I see you have several threads running in reference to your basement upgrade/renovations.

One thread would probably have been more ideal. You should create an extra lighting circuit in your basement to pick up additional lights. It's better to keep the lights separate from the receptacles if at all possible.
 
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Old 04-02-13, 09:02 PM
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I agree with PJ. Two reasons for separate circuits are so that you don't lose all power at the same time and so that you can run a 20A circuit for the receptacles.
 
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Old 04-02-13, 09:14 PM
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Hey guys thanks for the replies. Sorry about the multiply threads. Wasn't sure to keep together or make different ones.

As for this. I'm not looking to wire any lights into the recepticles. Just wanted to know how it works.

I know when I changed my outlet in the bathroom I shut the breaker for the outlet and that controlled several outlets as well as two florescent fixtures. Two smaller light fixtures (bulbs) and several outlets. So I'm guessing the lights on switches are all wired into the outlets. This kinda ties into my other thread about the bathroom light and fan bc that light is tied into other outlets and lights yet the switch only works the light in the bathroom.

Also. When I tried using a 20A outlet with a tester thing on it. It would not work. But a standard outlet worked? Why?
 
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Old 04-03-13, 03:19 AM
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Yeah, although we read all the posts, it is difficult for us to remember what you are doing without going back to another thread and picking information out.

How it works......a switch merely breaks the connection between the hot wire from its source and the unit using the current, such as a light fixture. Neutrals are never switched, except in certain commercial applications. Your bathroom receptacle circuit is a dedicated 20 amp circuit, and should not control any other receptacles outside its walls, unless it is another bathroom.

I am not sure what a "20 amp outlet with a tester thing" is. Any time you need to, you can post pictures of what you are working on using this : http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
 
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Old 04-03-13, 09:04 AM
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I know when I changed my outlet in the bathroom I shut the breaker for the outlet and that controlled several outlets as well as two florescent fixtures. Two smaller light fixtures (bulbs) and several outlets. So I'm guessing the lights on switches are all wired into the outlets. This kinda ties into my other thread about the bathroom light and fan bc that light is tied into other outlets and lights yet the switch only works the light in the bathroom.
Were all of the loads supplied by that circuit in the bathroom or were some of them outside it? Is that a 15A circuit or a 20A circuit?

When I tried using a 20A outlet with a tester thing on it. It would not work. But a standard outlet worked? Why?
If, by "outlet," you mean "receptacle" and if, when you say " a 20A outlet with a tester thing on it," you're referring to a 20A GFCI receptacle, you may not have wired it correctly. A GFCI receptacle must have the incoming hot wire - usually black - terminated to the brass LINE terminal and the incoming neutral wire - white - terminated to the silver LINE terminal. It should also have a bare ground wire terminated to the terminal with the green ground screw, if your wiring has a grounding conductor in it.

Just noticed: ECHO, Echo, echo...
 
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Old 04-03-13, 09:46 AM
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Thanks for the replies. Yes there are other receptacles and lights on the circuit outside of the bathroom. How can I tell if it is 15A or 20A. And yes I am referring to a 20A GFCI receptacle and did exactly what the instructions say as well as what you just said. Could it be that this is a 15A circuit not a 20A? When it was hooked it it did light light the instructions said it would however nothing worked when plugged it. Thanks and sorry for the lack of terminology I'm still learning lots
 
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Old 04-03-13, 11:43 AM
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Yes there are other receptacles and lights on the circuit outside of the bathroom.
The bathroom receptacles should not share with any other room. Its okay for the lights to share with another room but the receptacles must be on a dedicated circuit that serves only bathrooms. If the receptacle circuit has multiple bathrooms the lights can not be on the bathroom receptacle circuit. Note, your wiring may be grandfathered.

How can I tell if it is 15A or 20A
Look at the number on the end of the toggle handle of the breaker for that circuit.

Could it be that this is a 15A circuit not a 20A?
No. The 15a or 20a is plug configuration. In fact so long as there are two plug ins you can use a 15a on a 20 a breaker*.

* US code only. Canada may vary.
 
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Old 04-03-13, 12:27 PM
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Yes there are other receptacles and lights on the circuit outside of the bathroom.
One 20A circuit can supply all of the loads in one bathroom, or it can supply the GFCI protected receptacles in two or bathrooms. That circuit cannot supply any loads outside any bathroom. A 15A ior 20A circuit can supply the lights in s bathroom along with lights in other rooms.

How can I tell if it is 15A or 20A.
Read the # on the breaker handle.

yes I am referring to a 20A GFCI receptacle and did exactly what the instructions say as well as what you just said. Could it be that this is a 15A circuit not a 20A? When it was hooked it it did light light the instructions said it would however nothing worked when plugged it.
You only need a 15A GFCI receptacle, but you've already bought it now. If there was no power available, either it was wired incorrectly, the circuit was not on, or the RESET button had not been pushed. Long shot, it's a bad device.

sorry for the lack of terminology I'm still learning lots
And that's the cure. See Troubleshooting... Basic Terminology & Other info. And buy a copy of Wiring Simplified. You may find it in the electrical aisle at a big box store.
 

Last edited by Nashkat1; 04-03-13 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 04-03-13, 02:49 PM
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It was a while ago I tried this. But i just switched off the one circuit on the breaker. In the bathroom there is only 1 receptacle and 1 light. Outside the bathroom is 4 4ft florescents 1 100watt and 3 receptacles all that lost power when that one breaker was switched off
 
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Old 04-03-13, 03:17 PM
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I misspoke earlier. I meant to say
One 20A circuit can supply all of the loads in one bathroom, or it can supply the GFCI protected receptacles in two or bathrooms.
The lights inside and outside the bathroom can stay together. Run a new 20A circuit for the GFCI-protected receptacle(s) inside the bathroom.
 
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Old 04-03-13, 05:42 PM
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Ohh I gotcha. I know my father who contracted the house brig built wasn't pleased with the electrical work but hope nothing is unsafe.

Is it totally nessasary to have to run a new 20A cuircut just for the one receptacle in the bathroom? If anything can't I just leave it not being a GFCI or is it important to have that in there? Seems like a lot of work just to run on receptacle
 
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Old 04-03-13, 06:52 PM
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Is it totally nessasary to have to run a new 20A cuircut just for the one receptacle in the bathroom?
Yes, to be code compliant. There are high amp appliances like hair dryers used in bathrooms so there really isn't many amps to spare.
 
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Old 04-03-13, 06:56 PM
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Is it totally nessasary to have to run a new 20A cuircut just for the one receptacle in the bathroom? If anything can't I just leave it not being a GFCI or is it important to have that in there? Seems like a lot of work just to run on receptacle
No. It's only necessary if you want it to be safe, of sufficient size, and in compliance with currently adopted codes. Otherwise not.

IOW, yes, it is absolutely necessary.The only acceptable alternative is to have no receptacle in the bathroom - and to never use an extension cord to plug into a receptacle outside the bathroom.
 
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Old 04-03-13, 07:43 PM
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Oh wow ok then guess it is. How come when the house was built in 1981 it was built like this? All 5 bathrooms have the standard receptacles the power has never so much as flickered when running hair driers or any other like it?

To run a new 20a curcuit I will be adding a 20 amp breaker then running the wire to the new receptacle? Can I maybe add some vanity light to that then
 
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Old 04-03-13, 07:51 PM
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How come when the house was built in 1981 it was built like this? All 5 bathrooms have the standard receptacles the power has never so much as flickered when running hair driers or any other like it?
GFCI protection has nothing to do with whether power flickers or not. 1981 may be just prior to the requirement, or the protection may be located somewhere else, like in the panel. I installed GFCI protection for standard receptacles in the house I renovated for my family in 1983. The requirement goes back at least that far.

To run a new 20a curcuit I will be adding a 20 amp breaker then running the wire to the new receptacle? Can I maybe add some vanity light to that then
Originally Posted by Nashkat1
One 20A circuit can supply all of the loads in one bathroom,
Sorry, only one answer per question.
 
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Old 04-04-13, 07:36 AM
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Oops missed that answer lol

Last question on this topic.

Since the other for bathrooms have several receptacles and are on the same cuircuts for the bed rooms. (Each bedroom and bath has its own circuit) is it safe to assume that it has GFCI protection somewhere else like you said? And if so wouldn't the receptacle in the bathroom remodel also be protected?

I was just going to leave this as it was until I started this thread obviously I want everything to be safe though. This was more of a hypothetical question turned into wow I may need to add a circuit.

How difficult is it to do this? I have read about it and understand it in theory but never did anything like this. And I dot want to burn my house down
 
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Old 04-04-13, 08:09 AM
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All of the bedroom bath receptacles can be on the same circuit but none can be on a bedroom or any other circuit but another bathroom. The bath lights may be on any circuit. However if one circuit serves receptacles in two or more bathrooms the bath lights can not be on that circuit. Preceding current national code. Wiring in place may be grandfathered till you do a major remodel of a bathroom. Local code may vary.

is it safe to assume that it has GFCI protection somewhere else like you said?
Assume nothing. Of course it would be a moot point if you bring the bathrooms up to current national code. Some plug in testers have a built in test button which allows you to test that but if you don't where the GFCI receptacle is before the test you could be without electric till you find it.... and they can be very hard to find.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 04-04-13 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 04-04-13, 09:01 AM
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Since the other for bathrooms have several receptacles and are on the same cuircuts for the bed rooms. (Each bedroom and bath has its own circuit) is it safe to assume that it has GFCI protection somewhere else like you said?
No - and especially not if the circuit supplying the receptacle in one of those bathrooms supplies any lights or receptacles outside the bathroom. It could, though, and be difficult to locate, as Ray suggested.

And if so wouldn't the receptacle in the bathroom remodel also be protected?
No. Why would it? Is it fed from one of the other bathrooms, or from an unfinished part of the basement?

Regardless, the circuit supplying the GFCI-protected receptacle in the bathroom must be a 20A circuit and cannot supply power for any load that is not inside the bathroom. This answer has been repeated several times now; it's not going to change.

How difficult is it to do this? I have read about it and understand it in theory but never did anything like this.
Depending on the location and condition of your panel, it may not be difficult at all.

Buy a plug-in GFCI tester and an analog multimeter when you go to the store for the new breaker, new cable and the copy of Wiring Simplified. Your money will be well spent on those investments.
 
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Old 04-04-13, 12:51 PM
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Thank you for the replys. I have 12/2 wire and a new 20A GFCI receptacle to install I understand its needed to do and how to do it.

I have an existing breaker for a well that is no longer used can I disconnect the wires from that and connect my new wire to it? I wouldn't have to turn the electric off from outside to do this right? Only flip off the main breaker?

Ordered that book from amazon
Thanks again
 
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Old 04-04-13, 01:48 PM
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I have 12/2 wire and a new 20A GFCI receptacle to install
Originally Posted by Nashkat1
You only need a 15A GFCI receptacle, but you've already bought it now.
I have an existing breaker for a well that is no longer used can I disconnect the wires from that and connect my new wire to it?
If it's a 20 ampere single-pole breaker, yes.

I wouldn't have to turn the electric off from outside to do this right? Only flip off the main breaker?
Yep.

Ordered that book from amazon
Enjoy!
 
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Old 04-04-13, 03:12 PM
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Awesome thanks for all the help.

12/2 wire good? It's just thicker then the 14/2 right
 
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Old 04-04-13, 05:17 PM
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Yes #12 is a larger diameter then #14.
 
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Old 04-04-13, 08:54 PM
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12/2 wire good? It's just thicker then the 14/2 right
Yes. A 20A circuit requires #12 AWG or larger wire. #14 AWG conductors are only rated up to 15A,. The 12-2/G is exactly the right cable for this circuit.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 04-04-13 at 09:40 PM. Reason: Typo
 

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