Hello, This is my first time ever posting to a thread or blog, so please forgive me if I miss something.... I currently have three lights with flicker bulbs in them, one is controlled by a time controlled Switch, and two others are controlled by motion detecting switches of which are from different manufacturers. The problem I'm having is, with the timer switch, the flicker bulbs stay on all of the time, they cannot be turned off. However when ordinary bulbs are placed in it, everything is fine. Whereas with the motion detecting switches, the flicker bulbs, stay on as well, but will turn of when the switch is turned off. Here, when ordinary bulbs are installed, everything works fine as well. Is there a way to use flicker bulbs with motion activated switches and Timed Switches? Secondly why are they not working? This may be one of those "Der" questions, but sometimes the obvious can be allusive. Thank You for your help in advance.

 

Is the timer mechanical or electronic. If electronic does the timer have a neutral connection? If not that is probably why.

 

They are electronic timers and motion detecters, the neutrals are connected, however, there is one other switch in the box at two of these stations. So the neutrals are all interconnected, not that, this should be a factor, however I figured it should be mentiond? Thank you for your quick reply.

 

Sorry, I should have stated I believe they are electronical switches.
The Timed switch was a LED Display Screen that you can interact with while programming it. Where the Motion Detecting Switches have a bar at the bottom on the face plate that allows you to slide it to either the "on", "Motion actived" or "Off" Positions.

 

Apparently it's because they're "flicker" lamps.

 

Lol, thank you, I should have worded that differently. What is it about the flicker bulbs, (besides the fact that they flicker, nashkat) that makes them not work with these types of switches?

 

Not quite what I asked. Does the timer switch have a neutral wire?

 

Ray 2047, I'll pull the switch out and check, I'll have the info for you with in 3 hours. I believe it had a Red, Black, Green and a White stranded wires attached to it. Thanks again for your help.

 

Are you using a timer from GE ?

Most of their timer use the bulb's resistance to complete the switching circuit. Most of those timers require like 40 watts of lamp wattage minimum.

GE makes several that are slightly more expensive but they list on their package that they work with CF lamps, LED lamps and motors. This type of timer uses a relay to switch the power and doesn't use the lamp wattage as a switching load.

I think they're called Sun Smart timers or something to that effect.

 

Ray2047- The switch has three wires coming off of it,
Blue-Connected to the load side Hot wire
Black-Connected to the Feed side Hot wire
Green-Connected to the Ground(bare Copper Wire)

The whites of the Load and Feed are tied together. (this is wrong, isn't it?)

PjMax - Yes, it is a GE, here is the following information(Some information is probably overkill, but I figure it couldn't hurt)
Applience Control 6523
GE 5325-71L3
MODEL 1513
RESISTANCE 5W-600W
7 Day Timer
"INCONDESCENT ONLY" (I'm guessing this is the clincher?)
What would the flicker bulbs be considered?

so the sun switch may be the best bet?

 

No, but it means that the timer probably draws current through the bulb. In some cases of non incandescent lights or lights with additional built in circuits the impedance is too high for the timer to work correctly because it can't draw enough current. If it has a neutral it isn't dependent on the bulb for power. In some cases the ground is used instead of a neutral. That could be the case here. But I believe PJ has the more correct answer so ignore my rambling.

 

Here's a link to one I just found googling. Available from big orange for less.

GE SunSmart™ In-Wall Self Adjusting Digital Timer


120VAC, 60Hz
20A Resistive
15A Tungsten
16A Ballast
1HP Motor

 

Due to the nature of "flicker bulbs", they simply do not work with electronic controls such as dimmers or timers. They draw too little current and have special conduction characteristics... which makes them incompatible with the design of the (most any) electronics.

 

Nick D, Pj Max,Ray 2047, Thank You Very much for your help and time. You all have been most helpful. I shall try the GE Sunsmart option, seeing I could use the switch elsewhere, if it doesn't work.