Please help me with wiring a lamp [with a pipe-frame]


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Old 09-03-13, 02:15 PM
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Please help me with wiring a lamp [with a pipe-frame]

Hi,

I'm brand new to this, but I wanted to start making lamps. I've attached a picture.

I got some steel piping, a random lightbulb, a SPST switch (don't know the AMP, VAC, or VOLTAGE), a porcelain socket, and an extension cord. I striped the extension cord, connected the smooth/white wire to the toggle switch. I snaked the wire through, and placed the bulb into the socket atop of the piping. I didn't use any connectors, plastic, tape, etc. I'm not sure if the exposed wires were touching the piping or not. After everything was twisted together, I plugged the extension cord into a socket, flipped the toggle switch, and the bulb went on. I was amazed.

Shortly after there was a loud pop, and it shut off.

I blew a fuse in my apartment, and the light wouldn't turn on again...however, the lightbulb still worked (I plugged it into another lamp to test it).

I can't imagine the amount of mistakes that I made, so let's pretend I'm aware that I might sound ignorant (I really am!). My questions are as follows:

1. What exactly went wrong?

2. Does the voltage/amplitude/vacuum amount matter? Is there a formula to which all things must observe? (example: does the AMP on a switch dictate what kind of lightbulb/extension cord I need to use -- or vice versa?

3. Should I have taped up all of the exposed wires? Should I have crimped them? Should any part of the wires (even the casing) be touching the piping?

4. Should the socket touch the piping? Should I wrap it in rubber?

Any help would be so appreciated, truly. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 09-03-13, 02:26 PM
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I got some steel piping, a random lightbulb, a SPST switch (don't know the AMP, VAC, or VOLTAGE), a porcelain socket, and an extension cord. I striped the extension cord, connected the smooth/white wire to the toggle switch.
Are you serious? Pipe, an extension cord and an unknown switch should not be on the list of things you used.

I can't imagine the amount of mistakes that I made, so let's pretend I'm aware that I might sound ignorant (I really am!).
You don't sound ignorant. You sound dangerous.

Should I have taped up all of the exposed wires? Should I have crimped them? Should any part of the wires (even the casing) be touching the piping?
Please do not try anything else until you read a book such as Wiring Simplified available online at Amazon and in the electrical aisle of some building supply stores.
 
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Old 09-03-13, 02:31 PM
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Hahahaha. Amazing response -- an well-deserved, I'm sure.

I'll check that book out. Thanks.
 
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Old 09-03-13, 03:35 PM
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I know several artisans that make custom light fixtures. There's quite a market for it. As with anything custom made there is a liability.

Metal is a perfect conductor so you need to make sure everything you do is insulated from it. There can be no burrs or sharp edges. Plastic bushings and insulators should always be used where needed.

The wiring you use should be #18 lamp cord only. I believe SPST-1. There should be approximately a 6' cord to plug the lamp in.

You can actually buy lamp conversion kits that come with many of the parts you'll need. Check for the kits in places like the depot and lowes.
 
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Old 09-03-13, 03:55 PM
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Hi,

Thanks for that helpful response. I wanted to add a metal toggle switch, so I avoided the lamp kits -- ideally, I'd rather not using anything like a lamp kit, but for starter's sake, I will. However, the lamp kit at Home Depot doesn't list any volt/amps, etc., except for a #18 cord (as you'd predicted). How would I know what kind of toggle switch to buy that can correspond with the lamp kit. How do you know which toggle switch to buy? I'm also confused about the 3-way socket. Would you have a plan or guide to this sort of basic lamp circuitry?

I just bought the wiring book suggested by the other mod, so I plan on reading that -- or most of it, before doing anything else.

Thanks
 
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Old 09-03-13, 04:18 PM
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Three way bulbs are just about extinct.
Not sure where you could mount a metal toggle switch.
How about an inline switch on the cord like in the picture.

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When you really get into making fixtures check out these three way touch switch conversion modules. Run less than 10 bucks. They also make a three way touch dimmer that screws into lamp socket.

Westek 150-Watt Touch Dimmer Replacement Kit-6503BC at The Home Depot
 
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Old 09-03-13, 10:15 PM
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Plumping pipe and fittings are rough on the iside and can damage the wire. To help prevent that you slip loom over the wires to help protect them.
Example: TECHFLEX Techflex(TM), Sleeving, 3/8In Dia, 50Ft - Wire and Cable Protection - 1UXW8|PTN0.38BK50 - Grainger Industrial Supply

Wire nut are a simple and reliable way to make connections and insulate them.

Switches should be rated for at least 5 amps at 250 volts.

If you post pictures of what you have built we may be able to offer other suggestions. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/li...-pictures.html
 
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Old 09-04-13, 09:09 AM
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Picture of pipe lamp

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2c2e3b76.jpg

Picture attached. It's sitting on the floor in the picture.

I really like the style of the metal toggle switch and would love to use it. If you think the wheel-type switch is better, I'll try that.

The throw switch pictured has metal surrounding it. Should there be rubber bushings between it and the metal piping? Also, I believe that the toggle switch pictured is 3AMP.

Thanks again for all of your insight.
 

Last edited by DutchlandDiesel; 09-04-13 at 09:12 AM. Reason: Added Higher Res Picture
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Old 09-04-13, 10:00 AM
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Where is the bulb socket. In the picture it just looks like the bulb is setting in a nipple.
 
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Old 09-04-13, 10:14 AM
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This is looking more dangerous as it goes. You have uninsulated and unsecured and inaccessible splices showing where the wire (cable) enters the pipe, and there are uncovered pipe threads there.

The toggle switch is OK and only needs to be mounted securely, through a hole in a metal plate. The power is isolated from the housing in the switch. 3A X 120V = 360W X 0.8 = 288W, so it should handle the load. The splices that connect it to the cord are non-compliant and, in addition, must be made inside an approved enclosure.

The lampholder is inside metal which appears to be connected to the rest of the metal assembly. Even if you've wired this to insure that hot is switched and connected to the button in the bottom of the lampholder and neutral is connected to its threaded shell, the lampholder still needs to be isolated from the metal of the fixture.

It's an interesting sculpture. As a connected electrical fixture, it looks dangerous.
 
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Old 09-04-13, 10:58 AM
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Response

Hi there and thanks for the quick and informative responses.

The bulb is sitting in a ceramic socket that is sitting directly in the 'basket' of a 1 1/4# conversion joint. There is a 1 1/4" nipple screwed into the top of that (covering the socket and the bottom of the bulb). Whilst the threading of the bulb isn't directly touching either, it's pretty damn close.

There is a splice within the metal piping (not sheathed).

Should I sheath all wires?
Should I put the splices in a conduit?
Can the toggle switch sit in that opening of the piping? The metal of the toggle switch casing would be touching the piping.
Also, would someone please be able to explain this formula to me [3A X 120V = 360W X 0.8 = 288W]

Thanks!
 
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Old 09-04-13, 11:08 AM
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Amps multiplied by volts equals watts. The second part gives you a safety factor (20%) by using eighty percent of the watts determined in the first calculation. That tells you the switch is adequate for up to 288 watts. Many more watts then any bulb you are likely use.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 09-04-13 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 09-04-13, 01:11 PM
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There is a splice within the metal piping (not sheathed).
Splices may only be made inside enclosures approved for that purpose.

Should I sheath all wires?
What do you mean?

Should I put the splices in a conduit?
No. See above.

Can the toggle switch sit in that opening of the piping? The metal of the toggle switch casing would be touching the piping.
The toggle switch is OK and only needs to be mounted securely, through a hole in a metal plate. The power is isolated from the housing in the switch.
The splices connecting it need to be properly made and housed in an approved enclosure. That is probably not doable if it's mounted anywhere in the pipe.

Also, would someone please be able to explain this formula to me [3A X 120V = 360W X 0.8 = 288W]
That's the calculation for the maximum watts on your 3A switch, as Ray explained. The last part, for a continuous load (more than 3 hours) I added just for belt-and-suspenders.
 
 

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