Dimmer Switch/Ceiling light issues


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Old 09-24-13, 07:44 AM
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Question Dimmer Switch/Ceiling light issues

I recently installed the following light fixture in what will be a home office/studio space (Shop Style Selections 8-Light Standard Brushed Steel Step Linear Track Lighting Kit at Lowes.com), and, per suggestions voiced in consumer reviews, attempted to install a dimmer switch to help manage the 400W max output of the 8 halogen bulbs.

The first switch install attempt resulted in a loud pop coming from within the outlet box. The breaker did not switch off, and had to be manually turned off in order to disconnect the shorted switch.
I then attempted to install a second dimmer, making sure my connections were as secure as possible, and had the same result.

The existing wires consist of: a bare ground wire, a black - supposedly hot - wire, and a white - neutral/switched hot? - wire.

Any suggestions would be great! Would like to fix it myself, but may need to contact the pros...
 
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Old 09-24-13, 07:48 AM
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Forgot to mention - after apparently frying both dimmers, I swapped a normal switch from another outlet, and nothing happened- no pop, no lights, nada. Breaker didn't flip either.
 
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Old 09-24-13, 09:39 AM
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The existing wires consist of: a bare ground wire, a black - supposedly hot - wire, and a white - neutral/switched hot? - wire.
If those are at the switch you have a switch loop. How did you connect the wires at the light. Best guess is at the light you misconnected the switch loop. Second attempt blew the connection at the light altogether. Note the white of the switch loop should have been recolored black or red or any other color but green or gray.
 

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Old 09-24-13, 09:59 AM
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Thanks for the response - Light fixture was attached as directions indicated (realize they may not be the best thing to go by in this case...): black to black, white to white, ground to ground screw. The pics below show how the switch was installed (you can see in the third that I connected the ground back into the outlet box; I connected the first dimmer as directions indicated, but when it failed, tried to connect the second try like the original switch) :Name:  0924131252Wire2.jpg
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Old 09-24-13, 10:11 AM
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Light fixture was attached as directions indicated (realize they may not be the best thing to go by in this case...): black to black, white to white, ground to ground screw.
Not correct if you have a switch loop. If you have a switch loop you have two cables at the light so you have more than three wires.
  • Black of power in to white* of switch cable.
  • White of power in to white of light.
  • Black of switch cable to black of light.
*White of switch cable must be redesignated a color other than white such as red or black but not gray or green using bands of colored tape or felt tip marker.

 
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Old 09-24-13, 10:30 AM
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Awesome! I will give this a shot. The only confusion I have now is that there does not seem to be a line coming into the switch - only a hot, neutral, and ground leading to the light. Is it possible the power is coming into the light first, before it hits the switch? I may just be misreading the diagram.
 
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Old 09-24-13, 10:45 AM
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s it possible the power is coming into the light first, before it hits the switch?
Yes, that is what I wrote and what the diagram shows. Be sure to not confuse the power in cable with the switch loop cable when making the connection.

Diagram with power in marked.
 
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Old 09-24-13, 11:11 AM
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Thanks for clarifying. One last question (I hope): In the ceiling there are 4 wires tied together with a copper nut; 3 are black, 1 is white. I am assuming these are the power in cables, but they were not connected to the original light fixture as far as I can tell (The light was running directly to the switch, so far as I can make out: black to black, white to white). Just tried to flip the breaker to "on" again and it immediately switched off.
Think I may have to get someone here who knows how to make more sense of the spaghetti. Appreciate all the feedback.
 
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Old 09-24-13, 01:50 PM
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In the ceiling there are 4 wires tied together with a copper nut; 3 are black, 1 is white.
The blacks would be the power in and power out to two other loads. That white is the white of the switch loop. Nothing else should be connected to that group. There should also be a single black wire that is from the switch loop not in that group. That is where the black of the light connects. There should also be a group of three whites connected together. That is where the white of the light goes.

tied together with a copper nut
Was that a misstatement. They should be tied together with a plastic or ceramic wire nut. If there is bare copper that could be causing the short.

Could you please post pictures of the wiring.

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