Under Cabinet LED lighting

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-12-13, 12:16 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ca
Posts: 746
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Under Cabinet LED lighting

Hi,

I currently have hardwired, T12 fluorescent under cabinet lighting. The fluorescent fixtures are hard against the wall so that the 120V romex enters the fixture without being exposed.

I have browsed the various undercabinet LED fixtures. I'd like to have a fairly high light output. Is the Maxim Lighting Undercabinet MXL a good choice?

I'm not sure how I would wire these. Currently the romex just comes out of a hole directly under the cabinet and into the fixture. Obviously I would want the LED strip to be closer to the front of the cabinet.

The MXL comes with a direct wire box but they do not show a picture of this. Would this work for my situation?

Thanks

P.S. Did some research on light output. I currently have a single 3' tube, 35W which would be about 35x75 = 2600 lumens. The maxim MXL is only 160 Lumens per 10" so it's pretty low output. Placing closer to front of the cab will help eliminate shadows but still it seems that a very high output LED fixture is required to match a fluorescent.
 

Last edited by AlexH; 10-12-13 at 01:16 PM.
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 10-12-13, 01:03 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 12,889
Received 47 Votes on 40 Posts
Here s a picture of the junction box accessory: Maxim Lighting 87803WT CounterMax MXInterLink2 Direct Wire Junction Box

I would agree that the output of those LED lights is a bit dim. I suggest not buying any UC light without seeing it first hand the light output.
Why do you want to change the fluorescent lights out?
 
  #3  
Old 10-12-13, 01:24 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ca
Posts: 746
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
One failed so I think they near end of life (almost 20 years).
Partly energy efficiency but after looking into this LED hardly has an advantage and LED can't equal light output.

I'll probably just go with a T5- how do you like the WAC Lighting BA-BF-21 Fluorescent Light Bar, 34", 21 watt, 1020 lumens? Only 7/8" thick x 2 7/8" deep. A little pricey but I have used WAC before and they seem to be very high quality.
 
  #4  
Old 10-12-13, 02:53 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 12,889
Received 47 Votes on 40 Posts
I have not used WAC lighting but our supplier carries it which means it is pretty good stuff, although pricy as you mentioned. Most florescent lights should be able to be repaired by replacing the ballast if the lamp is still good.

Depending on your layout, and if your up to doing a little bit of work, maybe check into some double density LED strips similar to this: Amazon.com: HitLights Warm White Double Density 600 LEDs Flexible Light Strip, 3528 Type SMD, 5 Meter or 16.4 Ft, 12 Volt, 48 Watt: Home Improvement
I used the "normal" density strips to light my gun safe and really like them. Hardest part is hiding the driver. Mine are 6000K lights

 
  #5  
Old 04-27-14, 08:25 AM
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: china
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I have purchase one similar while I don't bolt the led on it. It seems too dark in some days. The problem is solved when I purchase and bolt the led light in it. It is very useful and effciently
 

Last edited by Tolyn Ironhand; 04-27-14 at 03:07 PM. Reason: removed link
  #6  
Old 04-27-14, 02:36 PM
Nashkat1's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 8,470
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
I would look for 120V hardwired LED rope (or tape) lights and run them continuous just behind the front apron of the cabinets. You can extend the wiring by mounting a surface box where the existing cable comes out and splicing onto it there. You can also use 12V or 24V DC lights with a driver to convert the power.

You're on the right track to compare lumens/ft. You're also correct in assuming that moving the lights away from the wall will increase the usefulness of the light. It will also increase comfort. Your existing fluorescent tubes sound like they might put a lot of glare on the counter, which would cause your eyes to adjust to block that. Bottom line, you probably never needed that many lumens in the first place and will need less with the lights in a better position.

Tolyn's suggestion of viewing the lights in operation is a good one. Look for lights that say "ultra bright" or "extra bright," with the individual LEDs spaced less than 1" apart. Look for "warm white" or RGB lights that you can adjust the color on. There's some non-commercial advice on the net too.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: