85% failure rate on replacement LED bulbs


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Old 06-26-14, 03:45 PM
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85% failure rate on replacement LED bulbs

PAR38 CREE 90W equivalent bulbs. One was dead out of the box. The next day one failed. Today, 4 more failed. My wife turned off the lights at the switch, and then turned them back on seconds later and 4 failed to light.

That is 6/7 failed bulbs in less than 10 days. WTF is going on? I was told transient spikes can kill them but my god what kind of spikes do I have that I can't see that would do this? The CFL they replaced had no issue and neither did the incandescent.
 
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Old 06-26-14, 03:56 PM
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Back to the store where you purchased them, with or without a receipt. If the bulbs are actually that bad, you should find a line and they should already have a solution ready. If no other identical bulbs have been returned, then you will need to start wondering if there isn't something different at your house. I could speculate, but check for that line first.

Bud
 
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Old 06-26-14, 05:42 PM
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Start by checking voltage at the light socket. It should be 120 volts +/- 10%.

Next make sure the fixture you have them in are rated for that location. Meaning if they are outside, that they are rated for outside. Also LED's do not like heat. Heat will kill them very fast.
 
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Old 06-26-14, 06:28 PM
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The sockets are Halo cans. Depending on the trim, you can put up to 120W halogen floods in them. I guess it could be something at the house, but I have a lot of equipment here and its never given me a problem. The only thing I noticed is that the LED do get hot....after being on for 10-15 minutes, you don't want to touch them on top, especially not on the heat sink....itll burn you. Im a little confused as to why she turned them off, and then immediately back on and 4 just failed to come on...in a matter of seconds of being off. Just don't get it. I emailed CREE with the latest info, but I see nothing online about it. I ordered a lot of them at once.

Like I said, my water heater causes the lights to 'pulse' while its running, but I don't know if its 10% of 120 or not. Not sure how to check that with a socket.

Ill check voltage somehow. I also dont see how you can get away from heat with them unless the tops are open. How else are you supposed to install them?

I did check the outlet in the same box as the light switches, and it is at 120V....with the lights turned off its at 121.7V....for whatever reason.
 

Last edited by agdodge4x4; 06-26-14 at 06:48 PM.
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Old 06-26-14, 06:41 PM
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How else are you supposed to install them?
By not installing them in a can light where the heat gets trapped. They are likely not designed for that type of fixture. You sent an e-mail to Cree which is a good step to take. They should not be getting that hot and I suspect that is why they are failing. You might want to switch to a "can retofit" lamp/trim. You can get them at big orange for as low as $25.

To check voltage at a socket set your meter to 120 volts, or more, and carefully touch one probe to the screw shell and the other to the center of the socket.
 
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Old 06-26-14, 10:14 PM
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Would the lights happen to be on a dimmer?
 
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Old 06-27-14, 05:09 AM
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Are those Halo cans rated for LED's there are specific trims for LED's just curious which Cree retrofit you are using ?Cooper Lighting | Halo Housing / Trim Locator
Geo
 

Last edited by Geochurchi; 06-27-14 at 05:40 AM.
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Old 06-27-14, 06:17 PM
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I don't know if they are rated for LED. Probably not. How is a retrofit for them 'different'? Im a little confused on how a Halo can designed for LED can be different. I just screwed the bulb in like any old PAR38. I see the retrofit modules, but they are twice as much as these bulbs and have half the light output, which pretty much negates their purpose. If the 120W Halogen floods werent so hot, Id put 7 of those bad boys in at 1750 lumens each!

Looks like I may have reached the end of the road for this little project.

ALso, lights are NOT on a dimmer. Thanks for all the info, everyone!
 
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Old 06-28-14, 04:13 PM
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Just curious what is the actually Cree lamp?
Geo
 
 

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