Replace porcelain fixture with florescent tube


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Old 10-21-14, 08:59 AM
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Replace porcelain fixture with florescent tube

Hello, I want to replace a single bulb porcelain fixture in my garage with a 4 light T8 fixture.

Problem is because of the porcelain fixtures position towards the back of the garage I don't want to center the new tube fixture over the old box. I could however come in the side of the fixture?

Currently there is a plastic round box behind the porcelain fixture. How do I go from it to the side of the new florescent? Box extender and adapter straight to fixture? A plastic round box extender doesn't appear easy to find though
 
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Old 10-21-14, 10:33 AM
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Use a flat metal cover plate, a right angle FMC (AKA Greenfield) connector, and FMC to the light. You will need a white, green, and black wire. You could also use MC cable instead of FMC. I would not recommend AC cable because with the plastic box you should really have a ground wire in my opinion. While AC sheath is usable as a ground connecting that when there is NM cable with ground in a non metallic box is more problematic.
 
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Old 10-21-14, 11:06 AM
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Standard 3 wire NM there now with the ground just shoved in the box. I don't know what you mean by AC sheath cable?

So I can use a metal cover on a plastic box and run a 90 degree adapter off of it? Does that metal then need grounded?

No plastic flat cover and non-metallic adapter/cable?
 
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Old 10-21-14, 11:11 AM
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Old 10-21-14, 08:47 PM
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Are you wanting to place the fixture completely away from the box or could you live with placing the end of the fixture over the box?
You could always pick up a unibit and drill yourself a new hole in the fixture frame.
Klein Tools | 3/16 x 7/8 in Unibit High Speed Steel Step-Drill Bit - Inch | Home Depot Canada
Don't buy the Klein one though. I don't know what the cheap hardware giant is in your state, but go there and get one for $10.
Then get a round cover with a 1/2" hole in the middle, put a 1/2" nipple on it using locknuts, place fixture over nipple, locknut fixture on.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...HL._SY300_.jpg
https://media.westburne.ca/shopimage...2159463454.jpg
 
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Old 10-21-14, 09:21 PM
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Your first link has a 90 connector that you need the second doesn't. AC is metal armored cable. The sheath has a bonding strip and serves as a ground. MC is metallic cable and has a green ground wire. Everything metal must be bonded to the ground wire in the plastic box.

Mr.Awesome, he wants the light at a distance from the box so your suggestion won't work.
 
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Old 10-21-14, 10:20 PM
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He might be able to fish a new NM cable into the KO on the box and keep the cable above the ceiling.
 
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Old 10-22-14, 02:21 PM
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Putting the end of the fixture on top of the box works for me location wise. Doesn't the 2011 code say something about you have to be able to access the box behind the fixture or something like that.

So cut a 3in or 4in hole and pigtail NM through it and down the fixture to the hookups? Do I need to protect the cable on that sharp edge somehow?
 
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Old 10-22-14, 06:53 PM
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Your light is the device that will be installed on the box.
It is no different than a switch and cover plate over top of a box.

Read my previous post again, there are photos of the exact parts and tool you need.
-Put a locknut on the rigid nipple (one of my favorite parts to say out loud )
-Remove knockout on round cover and place nipple in it.
-Put a locknut on the other side of the nipple once it is through the hole. Snug the locknuts to secure the nipple.
-Put cover on o box, allowing a pigtail from your hot, neutral, and bond through.
-Drill 7/8" hole at the end of the fixture.
-Fit the fixture over the nipple.
-Mount fixture into ceiling however you wish.
-Put a locknut on the nipple inside of the fixture.
-Wire light, turn on switch, drink beer.

If you find running a new cable to it easier, go with it. It is my own personal opinion that boxes are meant to hold wire and not be seen, so I suggest covering it with a fixture.
 
 

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