Questions about mouting box for outdoor light fixture


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Old 11-19-14, 10:16 AM
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Questions about mouting box for outdoor light fixture

1. Should there be some sort of a clip here around the romex?
2. The area under the electrical tape (in the center), the romex sheath is broken and also the insulation on the neutral wire. Is electrical tape around the outside of the sheath an acceptable fix? If not, what is?
3. Is this box too shallow to mount motion flood lights?
4. I assume around the wood and around the metal box (after a fixture is installed) should both be siliconed?

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Old 11-19-14, 10:31 AM
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1. Should there be some sort of a clip here around the romex?
Romex can not be used outside. If it just passes through an inside wall to a box the faces outside that is okay. A cable connector such as a press in one should be used.
2. The area under the electrical tape (in the center), the romex sheath is broken and also the insulation on the neutral wire. Is electrical tape around the outside of the sheath an acceptable fix? If not, what is?
Replacing the cable is best.
3. Is this box too shallow to mount motion flood lights?
What box.
4. I assume around the wood and around the metal box (after a fixture is installed) should both be siliconed?
Is the box surface mounted or flush mounted?
 
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Old 11-19-14, 10:50 AM
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I would suggest removing that box an installing this style box,this should have a built in clamp for the Romex ,is there any slack in that cable ? If so pull out as much as possible to try and get past the bad spot on the neutral, a motion sensor will normally mount on the fixture.
http://www.elvessupply.com/Arlington...Fetj7Aod0loAMQ
Geo
 
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Old 11-19-14, 11:06 AM
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I would suggest removing that box an installing this style box,this should have a built in clamp for the Romex ,is there any slack in that cable ? If so pull out as much as possible to try and get past the bad spot on the neutral, a motion sensor will normally mount on the fixture.
No, there is no slack on the cable. I think it is stapled in the wall.

I don't know of an easy way to replace it. It ends up attached to a switch on the other side of a door frame on the inside.

Do I have another option?

Ray.. sorry.. I was having trouble getting my picture uploaded and I think you responded before I got it in place..

Thanks guys!
 
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Old 11-19-14, 12:50 PM
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Best thing to do with the neutral would be to get a piece of heat shrink tubing and slip it over the neutral and mark it white, you can get heat shrink at the Big Orange.
Geo
 
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Old 11-20-14, 12:41 PM
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Ok, so I pulled back the torn sheathing and used heatshrink tubing on the individual wires where damaged. Then I did a couple of wraps of super 33+ tape around the heatshrink. Then I took some spare romex and cut the sheathing off and used it to replace the torn sheath and then wrapped that with tape too.

The exposed ends of the insulated wire in the box are still in somewhat weathered condition though.. They have a layer of clear plastic flaking off the insulation. Is this normal or should I wrap these with heatshrink also to be safe?
 
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Old 11-21-14, 08:47 AM
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You could have run the heat shrink all the way up the two conductors and just left enough at the end to splice your fixture to, if I understand your question.
Geo
 
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Old 11-21-14, 03:20 PM
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That is just a nylon coating that is peeling. No concern leaving it the way it is.
 
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Old 12-15-14, 08:19 AM
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So it is normal for the nylon coating to peel? It's not going to make the rest of the insulation underneath more susceptible to damage? Thanks!
 
 

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