Nasty old work Mr16 recessed fixtures
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Nasty old work Mr16 recessed fixtures
Hey everyone,
I have a kitch ceiling with 16 recessed mr16 cans, the low volt ones with a transformer on each fixture. We hate them! They are WAY to hot in the summer, the little tin disks that attach to the bulbs wear out constantly, etc etc. What are our options here to change them out to 120V LED cans? These are in a Venetian plaster ceiling which we would really not like to destroy. I have been told the cans will twist or pull out so we could access the wiring box but we have not succeeded with a single one even budging, despite considerable force! So,
A: IF the cans come out and we can access the wiring ( 12/2 ) can we just remodel cans up?
B: Is it possible there is some tool to grip the inside of the can to help twist it out?
C: Is it possible we ar screwed LOL
BTW they cans have been there since at least 1994
Any help appreciated thanks so much
I have a kitch ceiling with 16 recessed mr16 cans, the low volt ones with a transformer on each fixture. We hate them! They are WAY to hot in the summer, the little tin disks that attach to the bulbs wear out constantly, etc etc. What are our options here to change them out to 120V LED cans? These are in a Venetian plaster ceiling which we would really not like to destroy. I have been told the cans will twist or pull out so we could access the wiring box but we have not succeeded with a single one even budging, despite considerable force! So,
A: IF the cans come out and we can access the wiring ( 12/2 ) can we just remodel cans up?
B: Is it possible there is some tool to grip the inside of the can to help twist it out?
C: Is it possible we ar screwed LOL
BTW they cans have been there since at least 1994
Any help appreciated thanks so much
#2
Welcome to the forums.
By code....all cans need to be removable for access to the wiring junction box. Your problem is it looks like those fixtures are attached to the joists from the backside.
On second thought.... based on the non fastened wiring.... those entire fixtures should come out. Post a well lit close up of the inside of the can.
By code....all cans need to be removable for access to the wiring junction box. Your problem is it looks like those fixtures are attached to the joists from the backside.
On second thought.... based on the non fastened wiring.... those entire fixtures should come out. Post a well lit close up of the inside of the can.
#3
Converting them to MR16 LED lamps would be fairly easy with the existing cans. You could just get some 12 volt LEDs. Just Google "12 volt MR16 LED"
Converting to 120 volt, the issue I can see is the wires from the Jbox to the lamp socket might not be rated for 120 volts so that would need to be replaced if it is not.
The can housing is just held in with spring friction fit. Putting some grippy rubber gloves, grip the inside of the can and pull straight down with a bit of wiggling. (Do not twist)
Converting to 120 volt, the issue I can see is the wires from the Jbox to the lamp socket might not be rated for 120 volts so that would need to be replaced if it is not.
The can housing is just held in with spring friction fit. Putting some grippy rubber gloves, grip the inside of the can and pull straight down with a bit of wiggling. (Do not twist)
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
pics of can
Here are the cans . I have tried the LED MR16's (at GREAT expense!) and have been totally unsatisfied with them. they do not throw enough light, and the temperature is way too cold. Furthermore most failed within a year.. I am happy to rewire 120V standard sockets in as I have found lots of 120V LED bulbs I am happy with. Thanks guys
#7
Still no Mdl # of the frame or fixture,can't really tell what the inside of that trim looks like from the pic's. Actually looking at the trim it is only rated for the MR 16 lamp,your best bet will be to change the trim.
#8
they do not throw enough light, and the temperature is way too cold
That said converting the cans to 120 volts should only take a little rewiring in the junction box bypassing the transformer.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Temperature.
Well, its not just the temperature of the light but just the amount that a halogen MR16 throws makes the 12V LEDs look like they aren't even on by comparison. I have found 120V LED's that throw acceptable light though. So, with the 2 pin MR16 connector problems combined with less general output of the 12V led, I would much rather rewire if I can get the cans out! The box stores sell a 120V 60W LED equivalent for about 5$ This is WAY better than the 12v led option to us. I am going to try again to get one out tomorrow. Thanks