led fixture wont turn off


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Old 01-15-16, 07:08 PM
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led fixture wont turn off

Not having great luck with fixture replacements lately!

Anyway, this is a new one on me. I replaced a ceiling fixture and ended up with dimmable led. I already have a new dimmer installed previously. When I was done the wiring and installation of the light, I put the breaker back on and the light was on. Dimmer did not dim it, and I could not turn it off. Looked at the readout for the fixture and it had a list of compatible dimmers, mine was not on it. Went out and got a compatible dimmer: direct match to one from the list. Same problem. Light is on full blast and only tripping the breaker will shut it up.

I suppose I should assume the fixture is the problem? Wiring it was a typically very simple 3 wire affair, and yes I got it right. Dimmer is also a 101 installation, single pole job. Again, I matched up the colours just right.

Any thoughts? I find it bizarre that it is not working in a such a way I can't turn it off, and I didn't come up with much in a search.

Thanks,
 
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Old 01-15-16, 08:13 PM
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Install a regular switch for testing and let us know what happens.
 
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Old 01-15-16, 09:32 PM
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Most dimmers..... sometimes even ones listed for LED use...... require a minimum of 40 watts of load to operate properly.

Newer electronic dimmers are lowering that minimum required wattage to operate properly.

I use Lutron dimmers and in particularly the Maestro line as they are adjustable to the load for proper/even dimming.
 
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Old 01-16-16, 04:47 AM
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I understand the load requirements, but I bought a dimmer that was specifically listed as compatible for the light... Strange. I'll swap it out for a normal toggle and see what happens.
 
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Old 01-16-16, 08:20 AM
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Well, I'm at my wits end. I replaced the fixture and had the same problem. Replaced it with a different type of fixture and I have the same problem. There are only one each black, white, and ground coming from the ceiling. For the switch, also very standard, as shown in the photo. Previous light worked fine as on/off. It didn't dim because the bulbs fluorescent. Name:  IMG_20160116_111533.jpg
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Old 01-16-16, 08:46 AM
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There are only one each black, white, and ground coming from the ceiling.
Then where is the red wire ?

You're showing a red and black at the switch.
 
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Old 01-16-16, 10:02 AM
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The black almost looks like it is connected to the white? It isn't is it?

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Is this a 3-way circuit? It sure looks like a 3-way dead end.
 
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Old 01-16-16, 05:50 PM
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No, that I I a bad angle. And not even the picture I wanted to post.

Anyway, I was out all day and have come home for a fresh look, but I still can't identify a problem. I have disconnected it all and am starting all over. The diagram that came with the dimmer shows the red/white going to the Traveller, solid red to incoming black, and black to outgoing black.

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Old 01-16-16, 06:16 PM
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In that picture..... do you know which wire is hot ?

If you can let me know.....I'll tell you how to connect.
 
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Old 01-16-16, 07:20 PM
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In the box, the left side is the hot and red, the right side is to the fixture.
 
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Old 01-16-16, 08:44 PM
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Try left house black to switch black and out to fixture black to switch red.

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Note you seem to be saying the 3-conductor cable is hot. That would be unusual but I have drawn it that way.

This is more likely:

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Last edited by ray2047; 01-16-16 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 01-17-16, 05:06 AM
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I would agree that it makes more sense in your second diagram. I used a dual range voltage tester to identify the hot. That said, I wired it up both ways, just to eliminate any unknowns, and both give me the same result: fixture always on, switch will not affect it.

I supposed at this point I have a ghost.
 
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Old 01-17-16, 09:20 AM
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As suggested earlier as a test install a regular switch. That will tell you if there is a problem with how it is wired.

Note: I do not know what a dual range voltage tester is but only a multimeter, neon test light, or solenoid tester can be used. A non contact tester can't be used.
 
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Old 01-17-16, 01:26 PM
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It is a non contact tester. I have a multimeter. Regardless, I wired it both ways and couldn't get the right result.

I'll install the toggle, but I'm not sure what that is going to do. The previous fixture and dimmer worked in an on/capacity just fine.

If the toggle works: what does that tell us?
If the toggle does not work, light is just always on still, what does that tell us?

I changed nothing about the actual wiring. I replaced a simple light fixture with another simple light fixture. I only replaced the dimm that was already in because the assumption at the time was that it wa the dimmer that was faulty.
 
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Old 01-17-16, 01:47 PM
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It is a non contact tester.
It is too prone to false positives to be used for testing.
If the toggle works: what does that tell us?
That the wiring is correct.
If the toggle does not work,
That the wiring is wrong. First thought use your millimeter to determine which cable (not wire) is hot. That will be a neutral and almost certainly a black. Do the testing with all wires disconnected. Then connect the dimmer or a test switch using using that information.
 
 

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