Can't figure out how to wire capacitor with exhaust fan
#1
02-10-16, 03:03 AM
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Can't figure out how to wire capacitor with exhaust fan
Hi,
The bathroom exhaust fan stopped spinning all of a sudden. I took it apart. The motor seems ok to me, it's not burnt or anything. I think the capacitor is probably shot. I got a new capacitor, however, I seem to have forgotten how this thing was wired. Can someone please help me out.
Thanks
The bathroom exhaust fan stopped spinning all of a sudden. I took it apart. The motor seems ok to me, it's not burnt or anything. I think the capacitor is probably shot. I got a new capacitor, however, I seem to have forgotten how this thing was wired. Can someone please help me out.
Thanks
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#2
02-10-16, 04:03 AM
You would need to match the color of the wires in the diagram to the color of the individual wires.
Presumably the Asian characters indicate color.
U1 and U2 are power.
The capacitor gets connected between U1 and Z2.
You must be able to tell which wire is which.
Presumably the Asian characters indicate color.
U1 and U2 are power.
The capacitor gets connected between U1 and Z2.
You must be able to tell which wire is which.
#3
02-10-16, 06:34 AM
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I didn't notice the tiny Asian characters, in the diagram. The characters are apparently Japanese. I typed yellow in Google translate and the character that comes up is the one that is next to Z2. I also tried typing red and blue in Google translate, but the rest of the characters don't match with what's in the diagram.
Red means Live, Blue means neutral. So the capacitor connects to U1 (red) and Z2 (yellow). Right?
Red means Live, Blue means neutral. So the capacitor connects to U1 (red) and Z2 (yellow). Right?
#7
02-11-16, 10:53 PM
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I connected everything, but the motor would not work. I touched an electrical tester to the motor body and it blinks red, which indicates current is leaking into the motor body. What could cause current to leak into the body?
I opened up the motor to inspect the winding, there is no indication or smell of a burnt motor. I thought may be the replacement capacitor is also bad, so I tried to spin it by hand to see if it starts up, but it won't. Is this motor completely dead?
I opened up the motor to inspect the winding, there is no indication or smell of a burnt motor. I thought may be the replacement capacitor is also bad, so I tried to spin it by hand to see if it starts up, but it won't. Is this motor completely dead?
#8
02-12-16, 12:42 AM
I touched an electrical tester to the motor body.... What could cause current to leak into the body?
With the capacitor removed using a multimeter check if if any of the coils show open. Measure from U1 to U2, from U1 to Z2, and U2 to Z2.
If they show resistance post the resistance readings. Someone here may be abel to use the reading to help you.
#9
02-12-16, 04:26 AM
I agree on getting rid of the non-contact tester.
Another resistance reading that would be useful is to set a an ohmmeter to a high resistance setting (x 10,000) if what you use is non-auto ranging and measure between the motor case and each of the conductors.
Any continuity between a wire and the case means the motor windings are bad.
Another resistance reading that would be useful is to set a an ohmmeter to a high resistance setting (x 10,000) if what you use is non-auto ranging and measure between the motor case and each of the conductors.
Any continuity between a wire and the case means the motor windings are bad.
#11
02-13-16, 08:09 AM
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Ok I checked the wires with a multimeter. The result is below.
U1 (red wire), U2 (blue wire) Z2 (yellow wire)
U1 with U2
Open loop
U1 with Z2
Kilo Ohms- 2.34
U2 with Z2
Open loop
U1, U2 and Z2 with motor case
Open loop
U1 (red wire), U2 (blue wire) Z2 (yellow wire)
U1 with U2
Open loop
U1 with Z2
Kilo Ohms- 2.34
U2 with Z2
Open loop
U1, U2 and Z2 with motor case
Open loop
Last edited by PJmax; 02-13-16 at 08:44 AM. Reason: inserted picture
#12
02-13-16, 08:44 AM
Both windings are good.
The start and run windings are tied together and share Z1 as a common point. You have lost the connection between Z1 and wire U2. I'd bet there is some type of thermal protection device in that line that has opened.
You can search for "YYHS30" and you'll find several places that sell that shaded pole motor.
The start and run windings are tied together and share Z1 as a common point. You have lost the connection between Z1 and wire U2. I'd bet there is some type of thermal protection device in that line that has opened.
You can search for "YYHS30" and you'll find several places that sell that shaded pole motor.
#13
02-13-16, 08:55 PM
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You said connection between Z1 and U2 is bad. Could it be due to a short or some other reason? I am just trying to understand what might have killed this motor.
I had a problem with this motor a couple of times earlier, when the fan would stop spinning all of a sudden. Both times when I was taking a shower. I turned it off and on a couple of times and still it wouldn't run. But after a few hours it would start right up and work just fine for months.
I might as well get a new fan, it will cost just a bit more than a new motor.
Thanks for your help.
I had a problem with this motor a couple of times earlier, when the fan would stop spinning all of a sudden. Both times when I was taking a shower. I turned it off and on a couple of times and still it wouldn't run. But after a few hours it would start right up and work just fine for months.
I might as well get a new fan, it will cost just a bit more than a new motor.
Thanks for your help.
#14
02-13-16, 09:14 PM
Technically it should be a short. That's what the diagram is showing. A direct connection between Z1 and U2. You do not have that. You have an open circuit there. I don't know why it's open but I previously left the possible reasons.
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