L-holes for fishing wiring from ceiling thru wall

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Old 07-06-16, 04:19 PM
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L-holes for fishing wiring from ceiling thru wall

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It seems virtually impossible to pull wire from a ceiling fixture to a wall switch without cutting out pull holes where the wall and ceiling meet, so as to drill through the top plate. Any recommendations as to size and placement? I would like to avoid going all the way to the corner if possible, so as to make patching easier. Also I wonder if it would be wise to extend the ceiling hole a couple of inches past the first joist, so I can see inside the cavity to check for obstructions (I will need to flex drill through 2 joists). Also I hope to try to avoid a cut in the wall, and share an existing hole in the top plate for the the romex. It looks like the original builder used 3/4 holes. Its a straight shot down the wall to the switch. The photo shows the walls and switch. The blue tape is where the joists are. Note that the joists are 'I' shaped, plywood with 2x4s top and bottom. Light switch is at left of door, need to add a 2-gang for new switch.
Thanks for any suggestions.
 

Last edited by fututeshock; 07-06-16 at 04:41 PM. Reason: add picture
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  #2  
Old 07-06-16, 04:55 PM
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Since you can do the horizontal run in the wall or the ceiling, if the ceiling is textured I try to only cut holes in the wall. It's a lot easier to patch flat work than to match texture.

Patching 2 or 3 holes really isn't much more work than patching 1, so if I have to cut any at all, I don't worry about an extra hole or two if it makes life easier. I do try to keep the holes small so I can patch with one of the thin perforated patches and not have to mess with adding blocking or support pieces.

The old trick of cutting an oversize sheetrock patch and then removing some of the gypsum at the edges to leave a flap of paper to support the patch around the edges is a good one too.

Sometimes you can remove the baseboard and then cut out a strip of sheetrock just above the bottom plate so you can drill through the studs and make the run there.

If you have (or want to get) a borescope, some of them have small enough heads that the resulting hole can be patched with caulk. This is a good way to look for unexpected obstructions in stud or joist cavities without making big holes. They've gotten pretty cheap and come in handy.
 
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Old 07-06-16, 09:15 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Is there an unfinished basement under there ?

You could run the wire down the wall where the clock is thru the basement and then back up to the switch.
 
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Old 07-07-16, 07:26 AM
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Thanks for the great suggestions. Basement is finished, unfortunately, PJMax. Good ideas, CarbideTipped. Since I have to patch one of the old fixture holes, I'll have the mud and tape out anyway. I would much rather patch a wall than a ceiling, but I think I will have to cut the ceiling to fish. I will use a darning needle to poke into the blind area, insert bent wire, and spin. Not perfect, won't find wires stapled to joist, but real easy patch. Plan to make cuts today, the area right by the wall looks odd, two joists very close. Probably has to be a joist over wall? Should be interesting!
 
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Old 07-07-16, 07:58 AM
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Didn't see your picture at first. If you're willing to put the new switch on the side of the door by the cabinets, consider using the soffit over the cabinets to get to the wall.
 
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