Need a dummy load


  #1  
Old 10-26-16, 03:48 PM
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Need a dummy load

Hello all. I have some LED lights that don't quite turn off when dimmed completely because apparently the dimmer I used has a constant leakage to power it's internal circuitry. I know that if I put a regular 10w light bulb in any of the sockets, it is enough to make the other lights go out. So, I am wanting to make a dummy load to insert in parallel to the circuit, but I am not sure how to calculate the proper resistance and wattage I would need. Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Mike
 
  #2  
Old 10-26-16, 04:23 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Although in theory the resistor "dummy load" will work fine..... it opens a can of worms.
The primary problem is the heat it generates.
The second problem is it voids any type of UL approval on your electrical equipment.

If there was a fire and it was found.... there could be major repercussions,

Therefore it would be a whole lot safer to just replace the dimmer to one that can control LED properly. My personal choice and recommendation is the Lutron Maestro Ma-Cl dimmer.
 
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Old 10-26-16, 05:51 PM
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Hi there. Thank you for the reply. Ironically, that is the exact switch that I have. I know the lights that I have probably aren't on their certified list of lights, but the expense prevents a change out now. I have 17 lights between two switches. My (9) 5000k lights will eventually shut off, but my (8) 2700k lights never do. I would appreciate any other suggestions.

Thanks again,

Mike
 
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Old 10-26-16, 07:41 PM
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You mean the lights don't go out even when you tap the switch to turn off? Or just that low end of dimming range isn't low enough?

Have you gone through the calibration procedure for that dimmer?
 
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Old 10-27-16, 07:02 AM
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They don't go off when I tap the switch to off. By trying the calibration procedure, I am assuming you are talking about going into the special features where you can adjust fade delay, upper limit, and lower limit, etc. I have tried the lower limit calibration, but I am assuming that only relates to actual dimming.

If I pull the safety switch on the bottom, the lights go completely off, but once I push it back in, they immediately go to the glowing state.

Thanks,

Mike
 
  #6  
Old 10-27-16, 07:57 AM
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Do you have neutrals in your switch boxes so you could switch to dimmers that required neutrals? They generally don't pass any phantom current through the load.
 
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Old 10-27-16, 03:32 PM
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Why not leave the 10 watt incandescent bulb in one of the fixtures and it will be the dummy load.
 
 

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