4 recessed lights work on switch, but dim


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Old 12-23-16, 05:35 PM
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4 recessed lights work on switch, but dim

I have a switched outlet in my room, and ran a wire from that switch to the lights. Wire nutted the 2 whites in the switch, and have the 2 hots on the screws. The lights have all the neutrals together, and hots together. Not sure whats wrong.
 
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Old 12-23-16, 06:06 PM
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Welcome to the forums!

It sounds like you originally only had a switch loop in your switch box. (The original wiring in the switch box only had two wires, both connected to the switch) Your lights are run in series with the rest of the circuit.

You can likely fix this, but you will likely loose the switched outlet. Remove the switched outlet and take a picture and post it here and we can likely help you figure it out.
 
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Old 12-23-16, 06:07 PM
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Welcome to the forums! Where does your power come in? At the first light or at the switch?
 
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Old 12-24-16, 02:46 AM
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Ok. I can take a pic, but i am at work. You are correct with the switch 1 white 1 black is how it was wired. I don't care if i lose the switched outlet. The outlet has 2 white, 2 black, and 2 hots wire nutted with a neutral.
 
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Old 12-24-16, 05:44 AM
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The outlet has 2 white, 2 black, and 2 hots wire nutted with a neutral.
Do you mean two blacks to a white? Please post a picture showing all the wires and connections. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/li...rt-images.html If I understand what you meant this should be pretty simple.

At the receptacle:
  • Connect all blacks to a pigtail.
  • Connect the black pigtail to the brass side of the receptacle.
  • Connect all whites to a pigtail.
  • Connect the white pigtail to the silver side of the receptacle.
  • Connect grounds per code.

At the switch:
  • Connect both whites to each other.
  • Connect one black to one side of the switch.
  • Connect the other black to the other side of the switch.
  • Connect grounds per code.
 
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Old 12-24-16, 06:30 AM
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http://images.meredith.com/diy/image...SCW_188_09.jpg

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I am still at work, but thats what it looks like. So i take all the blacks wire nut them, and have a black go from wire nut to outlet, and same with the neutral? Obviously on different sids of the outlet.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 12-24-16 at 07:32 AM. Reason: Add image.
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Old 12-24-16, 07:37 AM
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So i take all the blacks wire nut them, and have a black go from wire nut to outlet, and same with the neutral?
And the same with all whites.
Obviously on different sids of the outlet.
Yes, black to brass, white to silver.

Receptacle should be replaced with a new receptacle with tab not broken.

The grounds in the picture do not seem to be pigtailed to the box. They should be.

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Last edited by ray2047; 12-24-16 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 12-24-16, 07:41 AM
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The white wire was not a neutral. It is common practice to use a white wire in a cable as a hot conductor.

If you follow Ray's post exactly it should work for you. You may also want to replace the receptacle as half may not work because of the broken tab.
 
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Old 12-24-16, 10:23 AM
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Thanks guys. Will give it a try sometime this week.
 
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Old 12-25-16, 03:45 AM
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How do you fit all that into that tiny box?
 
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Old 12-25-16, 05:20 AM
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It's not his situation, just a picture he used for reference.
 
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Old 12-28-16, 09:58 AM
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Thanks that fixed it. Now another ? I am installing another switch, and running 14-3 wire from that switch to the other. How do i wire it?
 

Last edited by doug21; 12-28-16 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 12-28-16, 11:12 AM
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Is it possible to use 14-2 for a 3 way? If so how do i do it?
Not with mechanical switches. You need 3-conductor* cable between the switches.

*Under current code with some old style 3-way circuits you may actually need 4-conductor cable so it is best to use a circuit that can be done with 3-conductor because of the extra hassle of 4-conductor.

Here is one of the easiest ways:

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This provides the 2011 and later NEC requirement of a neutral at both switches when cable is used.
 
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Old 12-28-16, 02:38 PM
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Thanks. The one switch just has the 14-3 wire, the other has the 14-3 wire coming from the other switch, the 14-2 power, and a 14-2 from the lights. Can i make this work? Or do i need a 14-2 to the other switch from the lights, and remove the other 14-2 from the other switch?
 
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Old 12-28-16, 02:43 PM
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Yes, but not to current code because you would not have a neutral at both switches. Code now requires a neutral at each switch even if it isn't needed.
 
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Old 12-28-16, 03:59 PM
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Ok. So i should remove the wire going from the light to light switch to the other light to light switch? So i'd have 14-3 + 1 14-2 at both switches?
 
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Old 12-28-16, 05:26 PM
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Ok. So i should remove the wire going from the light to light switch to the other light to light switch? So i'd have 14-3 + 1 14-2 at both switches?
Yes, just like the diagram I posted.
 
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Old 12-28-16, 06:23 PM
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Awesome, thanks so much. Love this forum
 
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Old 12-29-16, 06:50 AM
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It works. 1 switch is in off position, other on position, and lights are off. How do i fix that? The 14-3 red and black are across from eachother on both switches. The 14-2 black is on the other screw, and whites are nutted together.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 07:56 AM
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he 14-3 red and black are across from each other on both switches
Actual location of the travelers varies with the manufacturer. You can't use location of the screws to identify them. The key is the common. The common terminal is the odd colored screw, usually dark gray. The common wire must go to the common terminal.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 03:06 PM
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It passed inspection. Guess i won't worry about the switches one being on, one off, and lights are off.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 04:13 PM
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Guess i won't worry about the switches one being on, one off, and lights are off.
3-way switches do not have an on or off position. If your talking about position of the handle, that is immaterial to the operation of the switch.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 06:06 PM
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Ok, thanks. One thing I just noticed if the one switch getting power is in the up direction the other switch which is a dimmer works, but if its in the down position the dimmer switch don't work. What would cause that? So many problems.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 06:31 PM
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One switch up and one down is normal. Is the dimmer intended to work with a regular 3-way switch? Are you using incandescent bulbs?

Just a little brain exercise if the light is off with both switch A and switch B down then turning switch A up will turn the light on. Now if you switch B up the light goes off again and now it is off with both switches up. There are other combinations as well and add in a 3-way way positions have no up or down.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 06:41 PM
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Not sure. Dimmer said 1 pole or 3 way

I am using led dimmable, and dimmer is for led. Dimmer works great, but the other switch has to be in up position for it to work.

Pretty sure this is the one i bought. https://www.google.com/search?q=lutr...dDkBUkQgTYIuwU
 
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Old 12-29-16, 06:45 PM
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Dimmer said 1 pole or 3 way
A 3-way is 1-pole as is a non 3-way. How many screws or wires leads on the dimmer?
 
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Old 12-29-16, 06:56 PM
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but it says or 3 way. 2 screws on right 1 on left + the ground wire
 
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Old 12-29-16, 07:18 PM
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But does the instructions say it will work with any other three way or does it need a special slave.

2 screws on right 1 on left
You still aren't getting it. A 3-way can be put in any way you want. There is no left or right or top and bottom. Key is the common. You identify and connect the common correctly regardless of its location on the switch. That leaves the two traveler wires for the two traveler screws. The traveler wires are interchangeable so it doesn't mater which traveler to which traveler terminal.
 
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Old 12-29-16, 08:29 PM
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You left a link to a lot of Lutron dimmers. A model number is needed as several different types of wiring are used. Three way dimmers present their own challenges and I've found that the three way dimmers that say that they will work with a standard three way switch.... usually don't.
 
 

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