Quick florescent ballast question
#1
01-08-17, 09:16 PM
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Quick florescent ballast question
I just took out a old 2 lamp ballast and tombstones. I wanna just utilize the single ballast and single lamp in the fixture for my tool room. I will attach a picture of ballast. It does work a friend gave it to me. I have new tombstones also to go with it. I just wanna make sure my understanding of the diagram on ballast is right if anyone could just simply explain it a bit better. I am using a t12 40w. Thanks I appreciate it. 
#2
01-08-17, 09:33 PM
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That ballast used a switched socket that would shut the ballast off when the tube was removed. I haven't seen those sockets around in a long time.
The modification to the ballast wiring should be what you need.
The modification to the ballast wiring should be what you need.
#3
01-09-17, 01:52 AM
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Would that be the part in diagram where it says cut out lamp holder? I get what your saying but for some reason it seemed odd to me so I'm glad I always ask. It's a 2 lamp fixture but I can still just replace the old ballast and wire the new one according to your diagram and simply use 2 tombstones and 1 tube right? Sure it will look not good but no one sees it but me. I just hate having 4 t12 40w bulbs and the tombstones go to waste. Ideally I wanted a dual lamp ballast but i got the single :-(
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01-09-17, 11:15 AM
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01-09-17, 12:36 PM
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Actually to replace this old beast from magnetic rapid start to electronic one costs about 30-40$....Up here in the frigid north eh (canada) at home depot. Times be tough right now so I'll make due with free for now. The lamp holders should still be the same right.
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01-09-17, 12:42 PM
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#7
01-10-17, 02:53 PM
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So everything looks good here I believe. Just haven't dealt or used alot of the older florescent before.
Got black wire nuts together and neutrals all nutted also. Should be safe to turn on right? And sorry the pic shows a yellowish wire and a red it's actually 2 reds but one was too short thus the white extension so I'll color it red to avoid confusion
Got black wire nuts together and neutrals all nutted also. Should be safe to turn on right? And sorry the pic shows a yellowish wire and a red it's actually 2 reds but one was too short thus the white extension so I'll color it red to avoid confusion
#8
01-10-17, 07:34 PM
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#9
01-10-17, 10:37 PM
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Had to read up on the shunt and non shunted a few days ago. Hooked it up quickly to a heavy duty 3 wired cord and when I plugged it in instant start and no him or striation. I'm not leaving it attached to cord just didbt have it up on ceiling hard wired yet. Thanks for info etc as always
#10
01-13-17, 02:04 AM
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It's actually kinda funny today on a local website similar to Craigslist I picked up 3 diff t12 fixtures and ballasts and all worked great
#11
01-20-17, 01:53 AM
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Different Ballast electronic t8
Just thought I would add to this since it's mine and a ballast question. Would a florescent tube fixture work still or start with the hot and neutral backwards? I know other bulbs will still light up (not safe I know) but when I was replacing the t12 magnetic ballasts with t8 electronic I couldn't seem to get it to work. I found that the white or neutral wire was setting off the contact tester. When I tried it on the hot there was nothing. I will have to trace the original feed back a spot or two and see if thats actually happened. Thought I would do trial and error to see why it won't work exactly. I think i have it wired right and the bulb is brand new along with lamp holders.
#12
01-20-17, 07:56 AM
Would a florescent tube fixture work still or start with the hot and neutral backwards?
On lights that use screw sockets for safety reasons the shell needs to be to neutral but it will work either way. Having the shell to neutral is because it is easy to touch so to prevent a shock if you are grounded you want the conductor the same potential as you are. Since you are earthed and the neutral is earthed you are at close to the same potential baring wiring problems.
#13
01-20-17, 10:51 AM
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Yeah I did trace the problem back they had a black and white switch loop to switch not wired right. So I will fix that right away and then back to the florescent problem. I will start s new thread for the existing junction box.
#14
01-20-17, 02:37 PM
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This new ballast is hooked up properly I think but not working. The lamp is brand new and the ballast just bought. I'll post pics but can't seem to figure what's wrong
Last edited by ray2047; 01-20-17 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Rotate, crop. enlarge, and seperate images.
#15
01-20-17, 05:44 PM
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Unless you are in a commercial building I do not think you will have the 347Volts so I believe you have the wrong ballast. You need a 120Volt ballast.
#16
01-20-17, 07:40 PM
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Just had a Homer Simpson moment...DOH. Grabbed my brothers ballast instead of mine. That would make sense lol. Sorry
