Switched outlets to ceiling fan wiring

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Old 09-10-17, 04:36 PM
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Switched outlets to ceiling fan wiring

About a year ago I bought a house that was built in 1974 and all of the outlets in the living room were half-hot wired to a three switches in the room (all on the same circuit). I didn't want the outlets wired to the switches, so our realtor had a handyman convert the outlets to always be on and the switches on the wall no longer control anything. I just purchased a ceiling fan (no fixture was in the room at all before this) and have ran a 12-3 Romex wire (the breaker is a 20 amp) to the now disabled switch that was easiest to access from the attic. I just wanted one of the switches to control the light on the fan and don't care that the other two switches in the room are disabled. I figured running the wire would be the most difficult part, but now I'm realizing that I may have been wrong. My thought was that I would wire the fan to run
off the pull chain and the light on the fan to be controlled by the switch, but nothing seems to be working on the fan at all, even though power is getting to the fan according to my voltage detector. I have attached a photo of the wiring configuration for the switch before I added the fan. The gray looking wires on the left are actually black (just dusty). I ended up replacing the old switch with a single pole and connecting the incoming and outgoing black wires to the red wire on my newly-ran fan wire and putting this on a pigtail to one end of the switch. The new black wire I connected to the other end of the switch, and I wire nutted the three white wires and wire nutted the three ground wires. The fan is connected to the new wire with the red to blue, black to black, and white to white. Nothing seems to be working with this configuration. I feel like there's probably an easy answer that I'm overlooking and I really don't want to have to call an electrician at this point. Anyone see the error in what I'm doing?
 
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Old 09-10-17, 04:47 PM
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I can't seem to get the photo of the switch wiring before I put the single pole switch in to attach. The switch had four screws and the incoming and outgoing black wires were on the left side and the incoming and outgoing white wires were on the right side. Not sure if I should have kept this switch and worked with it instead of changing it out for a single pole?
 
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Old 09-10-17, 04:52 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

At the current time.... pictures need to be attached.
Follow the instructions in the red box.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

You have run a 12-3 to the switches ?
So the 12-3 is now at the switch location.
The other wiring in the switch box goes to the receptacle so how are you getting power to the fan location ?
 
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Old 09-10-17, 05:14 PM
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The switch box has two wires coming into the top of it. One (from best that I can tell) goes to the left and around the corner to an outlet. This one has power supplied to it according to the voltage detector. The other wire coming into the top goes on to an outlet on the right. Both of these wires just have a black, white, and ground. I fed my new 12-3 wire into the box and now have all three of the wires connected at the switch in the way I described before. Does this make sense? I'll see if I can attach a a picture.
 
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Old 09-10-17, 05:46 PM
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The 2) two wire cables leaving the box go to the old receptacles. They are of no use to you at the ceiling fan. You now have 12-3 at the switchbox from the panel.

What goes from the switch box to the new fan location ?
#12 is a little tough to work with in this application.
 
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Old 09-10-17, 06:52 PM
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I ran a 12-3 wire from the switch box to the new fan location. This is the only additional wire I have ran. I have made a diagram to try to explain the current wiring configuration that I have set up. I hope this helps.
 
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Old 09-10-17, 07:09 PM
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I have re-worked your diagram. This will allow the black to be always hot to the fan and the red to be switched to the light. However... this diagram and your idea means that there needs to be 120vac on the white and black wires. If there were just switch loops there to the receptacles.... there would not be a neutral present.
 
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Old 09-10-17, 07:45 PM
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Thanks for your help and for re-working the diagram. I would assume that because I am in the U.S. and this is a standard residential wiring system I should be good on the 120vac - I realize you can't say with 100% certainty because you're not here, but more than likely given the items stated above?
 
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Old 09-10-17, 08:00 PM
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On the left you show "source". That would mean if you checked those two wires you would have 120vac across them. Many times with switched receptacles..... the power is run directly to the receptacle(s) and then a two wire cable is brought from there to the switch. All this cable with the switch does is open the black or hot to the receptacle. There would not be neutral on the white wire.
 
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Old 09-10-17, 08:16 PM
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I see what you're saying now. What would I need to do to provide a neutral for this switch?
 
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Old 09-10-17, 08:31 PM
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You had said that there were three switches controlling three receptacles or receptacles. That would mean that there should have been 3) two wire cables in the box. One to each switched receptacle.

In order to get neutral to that location is to connect it at one of the receptacles. That would mean you'd have to locate where each cable went to or at least one location.

How did you find the wiring in the switch box ? White and black connected together ?
The easiest way to eliminate a switched receptacle is to short the switch out. Another way is to pull the receptacles out, disconnect the switched wire and install new receptacles.
 
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