How to wire Zooz Z-Wave Plus Wall Dimmer Switch ZEN22 switch?

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Old 11-30-18, 04:16 PM
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How to wire Zooz Z-Wave Plus Wall Dimmer Switch ZEN22 switch?

I just purchased the Zooz Z-Wave Plus Wall Dimmer Switch ZEN22 for 3-way wiring. This was my current 3-way switch wiring. My Zooz dimmer switch wiring goes like this:
  • White wire goes the neutral on the Zooz
  • Black wire goes to the line on the Zooz
  • Red wire goes to the traveler on the Zooz
  • Bare wire (ground) goes to the green screw on the Zooz

And it's not working. Looks like my previous settings do not have the ground goes to the switch.
 
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Old 11-30-18, 08:21 PM
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The white wire on the switch is NOT a neutral. It is a traveller. The neutral is the bundle of whites in the yellow wire nut. Cap the white that is on the switch. It is not needed.

You need to choose the proper wiring option depending on where the power and load are located.

http://www.getzooz.com/downloads/zen...structions.pdf
 
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Old 11-30-18, 08:26 PM
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What's this..... a one year anniversary. Didn't we already install this or is this another one ?
DIY: wiring-zooz-z-wave-plus-zen21-smart-switch
 
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Old 12-01-18, 06:13 AM
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PJmax, this is a dimmer on another room. The one we did last year was for my outdoor light. I looked at the other switch on the 3-way and it has the same exact wiring as well.

joed, so the red is then the load in this case?

Thank you so much for pointing out the neutral wire.
 
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Old 12-01-18, 06:45 AM
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You need to choose the proper wiring option depending on where the power and load are located.

http://www.getzooz.com/downloads/zen...structions.pdf
So based on this diagram, does my existing wiring looks more like Option 3? Both sides have exactly the same wiring (with the neutral line capped). That means on the other regular switch, I would connect the neutral and traveler to the switch and capped red and black wires?
 
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Old 12-01-18, 08:43 AM
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This installation follows the same guidelines and steps we went thru last year.
These are not plug and play devices. Changes need to be made at both ends.

You need to check the black/common wire at both switches. At one switch it will always be live (switch in either position) and it will only be live at the other end when the lights are on. Check from black to ground.
 
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Old 12-01-18, 09:45 AM
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Okay, so here's the current situation.

A: when the regular switch is flipped up
red, black, and white all have power
On the Zooz switch only red and white has power

B: when the regular switch is flipped down
red and black has power
On the Zooz switch only red has power.
 
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Old 12-01-18, 10:18 AM
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The white wire on the switch is NOT a neutral. It is a traveller. The neutral is the bundle of whites in the yellow wire nut. Cap the white that is on the switch. It is not needed.
Should I replace the current white wire with the neutral wire instead (that's in the yellow wire nut)?
 
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Old 12-01-18, 11:33 AM
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You need to check the black/common wire at both switches. At one switch it will always be live (switch in either position) and it will only be live at the other end when the lights are on. Check from black to ground.
Do you have a voltmeter ? You need to identify where the hot wire is. It may be at the opposite switch.
 
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Old 12-01-18, 11:41 AM
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I have a multimeter. This is what I got.

A: when the regular switch is flipped up
red, black, and white all have power (I didn't measure the voltage because the ground is tucked way back in the box to poke with one the multimeter probe.)
On the Zooz switch only red (52v) and white has power (read and white both have 120v)

B: when the regular switch is flipped down
red and black has power
On the Zooz switch only red has power (120v)
 
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Old 12-01-18, 12:34 PM
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This is what it looks like on the patio door switch boxes. The red wire on switch #3 has a black tape on. Switch #1 and #2 controls the light outside in the backyard. Only switch #3 is also controlling the light in my master bedroom. I'm not looking into replacing switch #3. The Zooz switch is at the main entrance door.
 
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Old 12-01-18, 01:26 PM
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On the main entrance door, this is where I installed the Zooz dimmer switch. C is 14/3 wire and A&B is 14/2 wire coming out of the box. At this point the white wire from C is capped to itself and pig tail the neutral from A&B to the Zooz switch. However on the regular switch (patio door), I have not capped the white wire yet. I don't know if the capped neutral in the regular switch (patio door) is corresponding with the A&B in the main entrance door switch box.
 
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Last edited by Charlie2; 12-01-18 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 12-02-18, 03:35 PM
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Okay, so I capped the TW (traveler wire) and replace it with a pig tail a neutral wire from the yellow wire nut. I also capped the CW (black wire). I tested and there is no power in both this regular switch and at the Zooz. My guess is that this means the CW is the power supply line from the breaker. So, my next question is, should I wire nut the TW and WC together?
 
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Old 12-03-18, 03:49 PM
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So, this is more like for my own notes.

On the Zooz switch:
Red wire goes to traveler
White wires goes to line
Neutral goes to neutral (pig tail from the yellow wire nut)
Black goes to load
Ground goes to ground

On the second location (regular switch):
White and black wires are capped together
Neutral goes to black screw on the switch (pig tail neutral from yellow wire nut)
Red wire goes to the screw opposite of the black screw

This wiring setup works after talking to an online electrician for help.
 
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