Can someone advise me on the connections to make on this timer switch? The switch is located in my garage will control the exterior lamp above the garage door. There is a single pole switch in the box, I have removed the timer switch that failed. The new switch has an extra wire that I am not sure how to deal with. The three black wires on the new switch are 1, 2, and C. I purchased it because it doesn't require a neutral.

Thank you
PB

 

It has three terminals because it can be wired for 3-way functionality as well as single pole. For single pole installation, tie 2 and C together then to the light. 1 is your feed.
https://customer.honeywell.com/resou...69-2458EFS.pdf

 

Thank you Mossman. I made a mistake in my description. The existing sing pole switch controls an exterior outlet, the new programmable switch will control the exterior garage light. I don't know if that changes anything.

So I connected wires 2 and C to the yellow wire (to light) and bundled wire # 1 to the short black wire coming off the power screw head on the existing switch. Unfortunately the new switch is not working; the display is blank and the light will not turn on. The old switch is working fine...the Christmas lights are turning on and off with it. Any ideas? I can check the light fixture which was replaced with some rotten siding last month, but the switch should have a display, I think....

 

Those power stealing timers are a bit of a nuisance. They require a minimum of a 40w load to work properly. They won't operate an LED fixture. The display will be blank or weak with too small a load.

If you can return it...... get an Intermatic ST01. It runs on a battery for several years. Requires no set load to operate and will switch anything with two wires. It's all I use now.

Intermatic ST01 timer

 

I think you diagnosed the problem exactly PJmax, thank you. I have an Electrical Supply Center 10 minutes from me so I'll call in the morning. The Intermatic website says they are a supplier of those switches. They look just like what I need. Thanks, I'll put in an update tomorrow.

 

Unfortunately I have not had success (yet) with the new switch. I've wired it in but the light remains dark, see the new pic attached. I double checked the new light fixture and that looks fine (black to black, white to white). The battery and new switch seem to be functioning fine; I was able to set date and time. I left it on MANUAL setting to check the light.
I initially wired the new Intermatic switch with the blue and red wires both tied to the yellow going to the light, thinking it should be wired like the Honeywell switch. When that didn't work I looked more closely at the instructions and just capped off the red separately per the single pole setup diagram, still no luck. Should I grab the multimeter and try to confirm voltage? Any other next steps you advise?
Also, I believe this switch will be grounded due to the fact that the metal tabs are touching the metal box, true? If so, should it just cap the ground wire like I have in the picture? If not, I was not able to find a threaded hole for a 10-32 screw, so I don't know how to attach it.

 

Does the light come on if you remove the timer and short the two yellow wires together? Just trying to rule out the light fixture itself. You're confident the black is going to constant 120V and the blue is going to the light?

The ground wire needs to be connected, because as soon as you remove the switch from the box, you lose your ground/safety. You can drill and tap a 10-32 hole in the back of the box and ground properly.

 

Try the shorting of the two wires first to see if the light is working. That is a stand alone timer and doesn't require the ground to work, It's completely run by the battery. The wires are strictly connected to a relay. The timer does not require any AC power to operate.

 

I shorted the wires without luck. So, thanks to that advice from you guys, I knew the problem had to be at the fixture spot. I had already checked the wiring connections at the fixture so just decided to try an old CFL bulb instead of the brand new incandescent (I bought that for the honeywell incandescent-only switch)...it worked. In the morning I will drill a hole for the ground screw and pop the face plate on. I am thrilled but also pretty embarrassed; you guys gave me great guidance through the switch selection and wiring and grounding and then I miffed the ending with a bad bulb! But thank you for your generosity with your knowledge. Happy Holidays to you.

 

Thanks and Happy Holidays to you too.