1st major project: ceiling fan & re-wiring switched outlet
#1
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Hello all! I am gearing up for my first major home renovation. I've done a lot of little projects before, and I would call myself "handy," but nowhere near a DIY pro. Looking to change that! So here's what I've got:
I have 2 upstairs bedrooms that were built without any ceiling light fixtures at all. One outlet in the room is switched (not sure right now if it's half-hot or 100% switched, as I'm still cleaning all the boxes out in project prep) to a single switch (receptacle? Still working on the lingo but I pick up quick). I can post photos after the room is cleared out in the next week or so.
What I WANT to do:
I'm also reasonably sure I have NO electrical tools, so any help with what I'll need to buy is appreciated.
Thanks all! Looking forward to being a bigger part of this community in the coming years
I have 2 upstairs bedrooms that were built without any ceiling light fixtures at all. One outlet in the room is switched (not sure right now if it's half-hot or 100% switched, as I'm still cleaning all the boxes out in project prep) to a single switch (receptacle? Still working on the lingo but I pick up quick). I can post photos after the room is cleared out in the next week or so.
What I WANT to do:
- Re-wire switch so it is 100% hot and on the same circuit as the other outlets in the room.
- Install ceiling fan w/ light kit.
- Convert single switch to dual switch.
- Wire fan/light to dual switch. One to control fan, and one to control light. Light switch will ideally have on/off AND dimmer option.
- Add a circuit. I've checked our breaker and the loads, and I don't think adding a ceiling fan to each room will be an issue. I don't want to have to try and get wires down to the breaker on the 1st floor.
I'm also reasonably sure I have NO electrical tools, so any help with what I'll need to buy is appreciated.
Thanks all! Looking forward to being a bigger part of this community in the coming years

#2
Whether you need permits would depend on local rules. Your building officials should be able to tell you.
The light switch is on the same circuit as the receptacles. Adding wiring from the switch would ad it to the same circuit.
You will need to check what wiring is available in the switch box to see if rewiring the switch is needed. Post back and more info can be given. Are you keeping the switched receptacle?
Cutting out the switch box to the larger 2 gang box will make it easier to fish the new cable into the box.
You will probably need a drill for a hole in the top plate of the wall to allow the new cable down the wall.
The style of fan box needed will depend on where the box needs to be mounted.
The light switch is on the same circuit as the receptacles. Adding wiring from the switch would ad it to the same circuit.
You will need to check what wiring is available in the switch box to see if rewiring the switch is needed. Post back and more info can be given. Are you keeping the switched receptacle?
Cutting out the switch box to the larger 2 gang box will make it easier to fish the new cable into the box.
You will probably need a drill for a hole in the top plate of the wall to allow the new cable down the wall.
The style of fan box needed will depend on where the box needs to be mounted.
#3
Just some additional info on what the Boss has posted.
Ideally the fan wire should be brought to the switches. Typically the receptacle box already has to many wires in it. Whether or not the power comes to the switch first or the receptacle first..... it can be changed to always live. You will need to work on the wiring at the switch box and at the receptacle. You will be running a 14-3 or 12-3 from the switches to the fan based on existing wiring size already in place.
After you iron out the permit and inspection phase....... turn the circuit off, pull out the switched receptacle and switch and post a picture or two of each wiring. Don't remove any wires at this point.
How-to-insert-pictures
Ideally the fan wire should be brought to the switches. Typically the receptacle box already has to many wires in it. Whether or not the power comes to the switch first or the receptacle first..... it can be changed to always live. You will need to work on the wiring at the switch box and at the receptacle. You will be running a 14-3 or 12-3 from the switches to the fan based on existing wiring size already in place.
After you iron out the permit and inspection phase....... turn the circuit off, pull out the switched receptacle and switch and post a picture or two of each wiring. Don't remove any wires at this point.
How-to-insert-pictures
#4
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Alright! Here's what I've got:
RECEPTACLE/OUTLET - This is a half-switched outlet. The top outlet is controlled by the switch, and the bottom is 100% hot. The tab on the right is broken, but the left is intact. The top outlet has 3 wires: black, red, & neutral. Red & neutral are attached to the top outlet's screws. The black - along with the black for the bottom outlet - is attached to the bottom right screw. The ground wire is knutted in the utility box.
SWITCH - 1 red & 1 black wire attached to the top & bottom screws. There's several other wire clusters knutted in the back of the utility box.
I'm pretty sure (but not positive) this is the best case scenario. If I understand my research correctly, can't I do the following:
I have a ceiling stud pretty much in the center of the room, so fortunately I can use the simpler bracket rather than the funky bridge/expanding type.


RECEPTACLE/OUTLET - This is a half-switched outlet. The top outlet is controlled by the switch, and the bottom is 100% hot. The tab on the right is broken, but the left is intact. The top outlet has 3 wires: black, red, & neutral. Red & neutral are attached to the top outlet's screws. The black - along with the black for the bottom outlet - is attached to the bottom right screw. The ground wire is knutted in the utility box.
SWITCH - 1 red & 1 black wire attached to the top & bottom screws. There's several other wire clusters knutted in the back of the utility box.
I'm pretty sure (but not positive) this is the best case scenario. If I understand my research correctly, can't I do the following:
- Connect RECEPTACLE black wires to left side of receptacle (unbroken tab), providing constant power to both outlets.
- Connect RECEPTACLE neutral wires to right side of receptacle (broken tab).
- Add RECEPTACLE red wire to ground wire & leave knutted.
- Knut all SWITCH wires together and shove to the back of the box with the others.

I have a ceiling stud pretty much in the center of the room, so fortunately I can use the simpler bracket rather than the funky bridge/expanding type.



Last edited by PJmax; 02-05-19 at 06:18 PM. Reason: cropped/reoriented/resized pics
#5
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Connect RECEPTACLE neutral wires to right side of receptacle (broken tab).
Add RECEPTACLE red wire to ground wire & leave knutted.
Remove red from switch and cap. Use black from switch as power for new fan/light. Neutral will be the bunch of whites nutted in the back of box.
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joed - I thought the neutral and power wires would need to be separate. You're saying I should put both black and white wires on the same screw, left side?
ray2047 - Absolutely. I hate the backstabs.
I need to re-visit the details on the new fan wiring after I get some supplies. Aside from the basics (and the drill, which of course I have) - is there anything else I'll need to have I don't know about right now? I know I need to measure the wire guage to buy the same kind, but is there anything else special I'd need?
ray2047 - Absolutely. I hate the backstabs.
I need to re-visit the details on the new fan wiring after I get some supplies. Aside from the basics (and the drill, which of course I have) - is there anything else I'll need to have I don't know about right now? I know I need to measure the wire guage to buy the same kind, but is there anything else special I'd need?
#8
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No I am saying the tab on the neutral should NOT be broken. You said broken tab for the neutrals.
Check the breaker for the circuit. If 15 amp then you need #14. If 20 amp then you need #12.
I know I need to measure the wire guage to buy the same kind,